1 Lucky Texan

in the car? I recently read of someone who removed the motor mounts and exhaust manifolds, etc. and used strap wrenches to pull the engine left for right side access, then right for left access. seemed like a good idea.

OK, I know this is reaching, but you might also try jiggling, vibrating, etc. the ignition locks, steering column, fuse/relay blocks themselve, the 'virgin switch/parking switch , the hazard flasher switch and even the rear hatch. as mentioned before, triple check for any other electrical problem. power windows, brake lights, dome lights, powered antenna booster, etc.

might be interesting to have someone monitor the leakage current while someone bounces the car at each corner or pulls, pushes on wire harnesses.

I wouldn't rule out the crank angle sensor.

is it a nasty kinda plastic/oil smell? could be a split CVJ boot, probably an inner one. any drips under the car? check the differential, power steering and transmission oil levels too.

how likely would that be at 45K miles? no history of engine work.

DANG! - wish I had known to do this but, as it happens, I DID see the springs in 2 of the coil packs (one because I was curious, the other because at one point, I thought it would make removing the rear DS coil easier to pull it off) and they were bright and shiny. None of the rubber 'snouts' were oily ,wet, dirty or otherwise looking bad. Each coil also had its connector re-seated.

My 06 WRX wagon with 43K doesn't see many miles and most of my maintenance is done on the 'time' side of the schedule. It came from the factory with Iridium plugs. Recently, it has begun intermittently making a 'chk' sound and I can feel the car jerk very slightly. No CEL. I waited till the tank was nearly empty, put in some SeaFoam and filled it up. No help, No CEL. It may be on its 3rd or 4th tank so, I doubt it's a fuel issue. I did pull the MAF connector to force a CEL so I could get FreezeFrame data with my scanner. Fuel trims were all low single digits (dunno what else I should look for there) This weekend, I swapped out the plugs. And of course, all four I removed 'look' pretty good. Sigh - well, I have new plugs in even though the old ones probably had another 20K or more life in them. Car still has the miss. It is very random. never seems to do 2 in quick succession, and there could be one, followed by another in 300 yards, or it might be a mile. I have an 11 mile commute on side streets. I have heard it at idle maybe 2 times. I THINK I've heard it decelerating 3-4 times. Of course, at high RPM I can't really hear anything so, not sure if it's happening. But cruising around at 1800 to 3 K or so, it could happen 10-20 times on the way home. so, I figure I may as well ask what you guys what you think. If I were gonna change something, what would it be (crank angle sensor ?) or even take it to a dealer (what would they be able to do?) I'd really rather not just wait until a CEL comes on or something breaks.

if you disconnected the starter, would the scanner still dim when you went past ON to start? just seems like it could be a low voltage issue, caused by either heavy current draw thru old-ish cables and/or a weak battery. At he first sign of a dimmed scanner, I would be measuring battery voltage, voltage while cranking, etc.

Drewart appears to have a different problem than 211 from 2009. He seemed to have steering problems sitting still. But, as you hint, drewart could have torque bind. Hard to say, I'd start by trying to idle the car thru some tight circles. He DID say he feels it in the wheel so....could be air in the PS fluid or????

I once read (or saw a video?) of a guy that rebuilt fuel and vapor lines for a pickup truck. He just bypassed the hard routing (like over the tank w'ever) . It may be doable. But, I'd suspect getting the entire system from a junkyard or parts car would be an easier path to success. hope someone replies with more details for you.

I'd install a Killer B oil pickup tube, might consider a windage tray. DEFINITELY closely inspect your pickup tube. (dunno what year your sti is though) I didn't dig around at the links, but, are you deleting the tumble generator valves? you should definitely consider digging around at NASIOC that's about all I can offer.

that's something we suggest a lot around here, glad to see the info actually helped someone!

if possible, arrange to take the car to a good mechanic or a dealership and pay for a pre-purchase inspection. use any issues found to negotiate a lower price or, if something major/expensive is found, shop elsewhere. $75-$125 or so to avoid a car with 'torque bind' or low compression might be money well spent.

ah, you have to turn captions on - OK I'm considering making an animated gif file from 2:50 to about 2:55 lol!

do your cam sprockets each have a set of double lines for alignment? the upper (intake) cams should have their.double marks at the 6 o'clock position, the exhaust cams at 12. Of course, this only happens every second time the crank sprocket is aligned. still hoping someone with experience will join the thread.

I'm certainly no expert, and the info below might not be correct for your engine, but the alignment mark on at least some crank sprockets is on one of the 'tabs' used by the crank angle sensor. And when the crank is positioned for TB installation, i THINK the actual 'arrow' will point 90 degrees off. The idea is all the pistons will be at their halfway point of travel so valves will clear if the cam should slip. maybe like this?; more info on DOHC here (again, not certain your engine is the same);http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/engine/dohctbelt.pdf hopefully, others with experience will chime in.

if it runs, there is precisely zero chance any rotating part is off 45 degrees. maybe 2-3 teeth, not 45 degrees.. he may be looking at the arrows instead of the hash marks/notches w'ever. But, cams can also slip when you remove the belt. "not the arrows, never the arrows" try a search, I found this thread quickly but, there is probably plenty of other info here; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106620-timing-belt-and-stuff-on-97-outback/?hl=%2Boutback+%2Bdohc+%2Btiming+%2Bbelt+%2Bchange

posting to remind myself to watch at home tonight

2 pistons at TDC fire simultaneously, then the other 2 fire simultaneously. (then , in a flat 4, there's a 'rest' cycle) then repeat. like this old thread;http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127827-ej-made-to-run-like-a-big-2-cylinder-lots-of-lowend-tork-discussion/?hl=%26quot%3Bbig+bang%26quot%3B&do=findComment&comment=1084998

if I just wanted a 'fun project'/experiment, I'd build a 'big bang' motor instead of this mod. otherwise, engine swap.

if no help here, you might consider searching first, then posting at NASIOC. (put on your thick skin, but , after the knucklehead comments, someone will be along that can help)

thanx!

OK, I have a variety of tools now from doing our H6 03 OBW. guess i didn't even know i had coil-on-plug though! probably a 12mm to pull the coils off? check for oil? etc. ?

I have noticed some missing in my 2006 WRX lately and, even though miles are low, according the the 'time' side of the schedule, it may need new plugs so, I ordered some. any hints, tips or warnings for pulling the wire boots, changing the plugs, access, etc. appreciated. anything else nearby I should inspect or change? thanx guys