1 Lucky Texan

The wife has complained of a squealing noise on startup - intermittently - in her 03 OBW 3.0 . Naturally, it hasn't made a peep when I drive it. On another forum, I discovered her car is supposedly prone to having bad serpentine belt idler and tensioner pulley bearings. I bought new bearings from NAPA and a new belt and will probably swap those out soon. anyone here done that? is there a link to pics or a video? Mostly, just wondering if tapping the new bearings in will be adequate. I plan to put the bearings in the freezer, maybe warm the pulleys up. I may look for some Locktite threadlocker or similar to put on the outer race of the new bearings before assembly. thoughts?

yeah, stupid comment from me. but, that episode is kinda fun - basically about a bunch of trading back and forth and a guy gets stuck with these bolts his nephew bought just because they were cheap or something...until the very end and someone needs them badly and it works out OK. maybe it was in the next episode or... I really don't recall the specifics....just never forgot the 'self-sealing stem bolt' phrase. Sounds like they might actually work! lol! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfqeUq7sZPI

moonman, did you wrap three, secure with a water knot, then use 2 for support? lol! looks like fun times!

You need a self-sealing stem bolt. Go see Quark.

Well, bubbles in the radiator to be more specific. A bad/old radiator cap 'could' create bubbling in the o'flow tank. But yeah, the track record here certainly points to HGs.

This story seems SO familiar - have you posted this before under a different user name or on another Forum? anyway, that oil leak is very strange.

you could put in the FWD fuse under the hood and I guess use any mix of tires you want.

I wonder if you could drill/tap and plug it with a small bolt? might not be worth the risk of introducing metal shavings or 'propagating' a crack. how about heli-arc or w'ever welding it over?

if you're lucky, your mechanic left an air bubble in the system and MAYBE not much damage was done by the event. Or headgaskets if you're unlucky.

depending on exactly what the issue is with your discomfort, you might check into some product to give your back more support. Orbus Forme' is often touted as having very nice stuff. http://www.obusforme.ca/obus_forme/?SID=ae7g17j6qvnc0n8f0tnu7sgc45

I like the seats in my wife's 03 OBW. I REALLY like the seats in my 06 WRX wgn. Some folks may not as getting in/out over the thigh bolsters is odd. Plus, non-removable headrest. But they are comfy and 'sporty'. (careful if you get some at the junkyard - there's an airbag built in the side I think.)

Is it tinted? Some people report poor reception after tinting in some cars. just an idea.

wife's 03 H6 OBW had a leaking rear strut. It also has had a split inner boot up front so, I decided to install all 4 sttruts and half-axle. It went OK though, I was quite slow - doing it over 4 days with 3-4 interruptions. Also, after doing the rear struts with handtools, I bought an electric impact before doing the front so, NEW TOOL! WOOT! used info from here (also, added some pics and comments); http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/36263-2003-w-h6-baja-springs-kyb-struts-done.html

TWIN TURBO that baby! YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wonder what's wrong with the present engine? Anyway - same generation so, maybe not too many differences. DO check/change the bearing on the tensioner and idler pulleys for the serpentine belt. If the engine that's out has ANY hint of needing plugs or valve cover gaskets - do that before installation. And don't cheap out - platinum or iridium plugs.

Look for a place inside the covers where rubbing/scuffing has been taking place. Might a be a sign that the tensioner is weak.

Sounds like everything is already settled but, I've read that holding a narrow strip of paper at the tailpipe while someone cranks the starter will show the paper suck IN if a belt is broken or significantly jumped in time due to open exhaust valve(s).

I recently installed Redline Lightweight Shockproof (synth.) in all the differentials and 5MT in my 03 Outback (4eat) and my 06 WRX wagon. The front diff in my wife's Outback seems noticeably quieter. It was always a little noisy - noticeable mostly at highway speeds. At first, I didn't notice any difference in my WRX manual, but now I think it is not working too well. probably TOO slippery for good synchro operation. I may try to find an additive or swap it out at my next service interval in April. I'd like to run a synthetic, but I don't want to sacrifice synchro operation!

Sometimes, a poor ground can cause alt./charging problems. Mkae certain there a good physical grounds from the alt, engine, frame/fender, etc. to the battery and everywhere really.

DOH! Hmmm....I'll work on it. a few pics located in this discussion; http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f94/09-forester-aero-wipers-35097/

Despite being different lengths, they fit and work without interference. They have a very nice 'aero' look to them. small thing I know - just FYI Carl

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Subaru-Micro-Mini-Van-360_W0QQitemZ300273783333QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item300273783333&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A-1

I'm not sure you're missing anything - be interesting to see if one side has slipped valve timing. You could try holding a small stip of paper to the tail pipe. If it tries to 'suck in' that could mean a valve is open when it shouldn't be. I dunno if that trick works if timing is off by just 1 or 2 teeth though. Maybe there is a fuel pressure/delivery problem?

http://jalopnik.com/5058493/subaru-boxer-diesel-unveiled-for-forester-impreza-and-legacy-in-paris

check the tranny, maybe they over/underfilled it. check the front diff too, just in case someone messed with it.