1 Lucky Texan

I should have been more clear. Yes, my daughter had some buildup on the terminals, however, the cables had hidden corrosion under the insulation. To the extent we even heard arcing during one jumpstart event. It isn't uncommon for battery CABLES to go bad over time. I think water/acid/fumes/condensation/salts can 'wick' or flow down the strands under the insulation. Just a consideration, but, as said, she also had intermittent stalling and intermittent starting failures and odd CEL occurrences.

I'm gonna suggest you add corroded battery cable(s) to any list of possibilities. My daughter just had your exact symptoms fixed with new cables on a 06 Chevy Impala.

I've had 'some' luck when showing local dealer an online price and asking how close they can get. Matched one time, and close enough at a different instance. With shipping vs sales tax - you still need to watch the bottom number.

Should aslo point out that, a brake upgrade is only as good as the tires. Run max or ultimate performance all-seasons (or summer rubber). THEN you'll be shocked how quickly you can stop!

I was surprised too - figured it would be dealer only or some klugeed-up approach.

My first concern was , that you had installed a non-Subaru t'stat. They are known to be problematic. Supposedly, Stant just recently began offering an Xacstat, made to be a precise soob replacement. But I don't think there's much experience with it yet. You could try one from the Dealer, but, like you say, seems like it may be working. At 216K - is it time for a timing belt/tensioner/etc.? maybe the belt is dragging on the water pump??? What prompted you to do this work in the first place? was there cooling problems before?

he could try acetone/PwrStg fluid 50/50 - just have to keep shaking it up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-101870.html

did you install a new thermostat?

in addition to camber problems, as wear accumulates, the wheels can toe-in too much under force. maybe check steering components for wear, or have the alignment shop toe out very slightly.

I can't believe they still make such a thing, I tried one about 30 years ago - epic fail.

Mine was ruined by battery corrosion and probably me trying to clean battery corrosion on the wife's 03 H6 OBW. Aftermarket pump from AutoZone seems to work better than the original. A little tricky to pop into the supplied new gasket in the side of the tank. Some minor re-wiring. Have an independent mechanic do this for you if you're not a DIY-er. It isn't much more difficult than an oil change in difficulty.

I have a 'regular' stant still in the box. reading here convinced me I did not want to install it. Wonder if my local parts place would give me credit against the new style? hmmmm.....

I think they have one of these in the attic; [/img]

If you want to upgrade brake performance for the street, just get better pads on decent rotors. Maybe stainless steel brake lines.(though, new rubber OEM would likely feel better than the old lines too) Stoptech Street Performance pads, or well, many other choices. Drilled have a reputation for cracking, slotted will accelerate pad wear. GOOD pad material will not out-gas like older formulas and that is what slots and holes were created to alleviate. If he wants to dress-up the brake area, there are high-temp paints you could use on the caliper and maybe the center part of the rotor. Read the 'white papers' here for some good info on brakes; http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers

Maybe check around on an Isuzu newsgroup or general auto - perhaps those vehicles have a known intermittent crank angle sensor or relay or.... that is well known. My daughter had a 90 maxima that would stall out intermittently. i asked on a nissan newsgroup, a nissan tech suggested a relay that fixed the car!, then I sent him a sixpack of Lonestar beer via UPS! true story

Get the code read. A bad/lazy O2 or maf/map or other emissions sensor could easily cause poor gas mileage. Could also lead to catalytic conv. damage,etc.

As a general rule I recall from 'the old days' a tire's rotation direction shouldn't be reversed. Of course, tires may be better/more tolerant of that these days. dunno I'd have it flipped i think. Even if I had to pay for it. But, really, what kinda tire shop doesn't mark direction when they take stuff off, and pay attention when they mount them. That's tire swapping 101 lol!

you say it's running well, but I can't not mention the possibility of getting the TB off by a tooth. You might pull the covers to double check.

somewhere around here, I have a very old book called The Science of Successful Threshing. All steam powered stuff IIRC!!!

Check the level in the front diff - the stick on the other side from the transmission dipstick. It's short, down low, and often covered in 'muck'.

be sure to disable the ignition/coil/igniter first.

Does it run any differently after it warms up?

replaced o-ring seal on the small housing holding the suction hose from the tank on top of the wife's 03 H6 OBW's power steerin pump. It was hard and no longer sealing, allowed lots of air to get sucked in and made the pump whine. Used an 80 cent part from Ace Hardware! hope it lasts a little while.

Can't you get a crank or cam angle sensor code if the timing belt slips?

bent/bad suspension/drivetrain part. Or a bad tire. I've had a coupla tires that were just not built right and one of them statred showing it's belts when it still had tread left.