1 Lucky Texan

lol! the road course CLASS cost $210 - duh!

you might like this thread; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/36967-3-carseats-ob.html

seems very thorough. unrelated but, if the brake and PS fluids are old, maybe flush/change them. particularly brake fluid - it absorbs moisture. Is the oil pan dented? If so, double check the oil pick-up tubed for cracks/bends.

most fun $210 I ever spent that was car-related, HPDE;

color sounds good, and most important - the same across them so, as you say, time to look for an issue common to all cylinders - the intake. Triple check the PCV valve/hoses and other breather hoses. But it's not looking good for the turbo.

I admit any valve overlap should create a 'negative pulse' that could make the test confusing. And another thing is the bernoulli effect (I think, maybe venturi?) that could make the test a little confusing. To illustrate, find a Post It note or use a strip of paper - even the corner of a full sheet. If you place it very close to your pursed lips while blowing steadily but strongly, there is a point, up close/touching, that has a vacuum feeling. Even pulling a millimeter away, and the paper is blown away, but if you force it up close again, it will appear to stick or suck back TOWARDS the stream of air. I suspect I would have to acquaint myself to how a normal car performs with a dollar bill or other piece of paper - probably several cars, before I could rely on myself to use the test for diagnosing slipped timing or a bad exhaust valve. And with interference engines, maybe by the time it's VERY obvious the paper is behaving in a way I could feel confident about wrong valve timing, there'd be a lot of noise from bent/broken parts!

how did this turn out?

was this resolved?

you might take a look through here; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=45

haven't done many starters (2-3) and that was decades ago - and none on a soob yet. sounds like a 40 minute job turned into 2 hours with all the back and forth stuff.

car parts store might be able to test the starter. Kinda odd you here nothing, wondering if there's a problem in the column. Also, don't ignore the possibility of a bad battery cable. Just had this cause issues on my daughter's 06 Impala.

as awesome as this is; I think it just got obsoleted by this;

After a long drive, use one of those remote infrared thermometers and measure the temperature of the hub and caliper and rotor. Compare to the other side. If those 3 things are about the same temp. , you know to look somewehere (where?????) else. But, even when my bearing was making horrific crunching noise, the wheel only moved 2mm or so, ANY movement means there's a problem somewhere. Don't forget to look at the inner tripod joint. If you still can't locate the problem, you could swap left-right CV axles and see if the problem changes or follows the axle.

Um, I guess the ROTORS and BRACKETS are both the right size? either way, that sucks.

I'd say the first step is to have a knowledgeable person check it out. You posted your location, so maybe someone can mention a mechanic that can confirm you have an internal transmission problem and not just a bad axle or driveshaft u-joint or other less severe problem. Although axle problems might hold for a while, get this investigated soon.

that's how Chuck Norris de-ices a window. (know what's behind Chuck Norris' beard? ... another FIST!)

1938 Phantom Corsair (aka The Flying Wombat) 1935 Stout Scarab 1938 Bugatti Atlantic

Yep, that's was him on NASIOC. Nick over there could help you, or just join up and do an 'advanced search' on the name ' yardhippie ' and you'll find threads in which he posted. edit; here's a link to threads with a post from him, searching within the threads is required to ge his posts - again, email/contact Nick or one of the mods there. They may have a way to filter all of your son's posts and replies for you. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/search.php?searchid=27208917 good luck