1 Lucky Texan

well, what you did may not be 'ideal' but hey, you swapped in fresh oil and should be good to go for quite a while. And if you have no issues with those weights in winter - you should be fine in summer. I just put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in my wrx tranny and rear diff and my wife's outbcak's front and rear diffs(last spring I think). It seemed to slightly quiet some whirring in the outback's front diff. I haven't quite decided if I like it in my WRX - though I haven't detected any clashing or missed any shifts - it just feels different/notchy. The stuff some folks use at NASIOC is called Scotty's Cocktail or Uncle SCotty's Cocktail if you wanna search for it. As long as your synchros are working and there's no shifting problems - I'd leave it alone.

I suppose it's possible..... have you used an infrarred therm to try to find a consistently warmer hub on one side vs the other? Or lifted the front end to try 'wiggling' the wheels at the '12-6 oclock' positions to check for ANY play? I had a bearing go out after a repair from a wreck and it was REALLY loud by the time I was suspicious enough to turn off the radio and a/c to listen. And it was about the same regardless of how I drove it - but I was afraid to get on the highway! Even that bad - it only shifted about 2mm with the 12-6 test.

I wouldn't change it unless I experienced bad shifting. Many folks use a 'cocktail' of 3 oils over at NASIOC with good results.

dunno about the parts, but if the pan got dented, be sure to inspect the pickup tube. If it took a hit, it could be bent or cracked.

lol! OK, makes sense. I didn't mean to imply you didn't know what you were doing, just confused on the fluid amount. What type of fluid do you use? If it's the same you've had luck with in the past, doesn't seem like that could be a problem. Is it possible the tranny had the wrong fluid to begin with and the 2 types don't play well together? maybe 2 more drain/filss would help.

you're checking the level while idling right? I was under the impression a drain/fill would be close to 4 qts. Could you be low on fluid?

could it be #1 here? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_30/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_4/ also, read here; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75577&highlight=31942aa090

why was it rebuilt? Might doublecheck the timing belt timing. If it was rebuilt because of TB failure, a leakdown test might find a bent valve. Maybe there is fuel starvation, might check fuel pump output. brief test with the exhaust loose might point to a clogged cat conv. - longshot on that.

boxer4racing carries a few bits for legacy - you might dig around there. fun project!

traveled DFW to Galveston in the outback (03 H6), then back after a cruise. 25 mpg down, 26mpg back. 65-80 most of the time.

last week, my wife used the Groupon I got her for her birthday and had the outback detailed, today, I checked all the fluids and prepped her car for a 5 hour drive to Galveston tomorrow. My company's founder is taking all the employees and their spouse/SOs on a cruise to celebrate the company's 30th anniversary. (see how I used a thread about car care to make you all envious? - MWAH-Hah-hah-hah-haaaahhhhhh!!!)

hmmm....seems to me this is an accessory belt issue and you 'may' be looking at the tensioner or other item driven by an accessory belt - not timing belt(which drives the water pump). Also, is this car a 3.0 H6? The serpentine belt runs across 2 pulleys that are known problems. Tensioner pulley and idler pulley. There's 1 or 2 threads devoted to that problem.

this is good info

bigger tires of course, that brings a different set of issues.

ugh - nvrmd

^^^^this

CACA, IP Tension from the bottom, CCW C rank A / C A lternator I dler P ower steering pump T ensioner (I found it easiest to slip the belt over the power steering pump last while rotating the tensioner 'down' with a 3/8 breakover)

your usage is low like both my cars. That is often considered a 'harsh environment' as moisture may not get driven out from fluids well with short/infrequent trips. You might find DIY instructions here or at scoobymods for the front diff. perhaps even a video at youtube. It wasn't too difficult but I had to buy a T-70 torx from AutoZone ($5 or so IIRC) a 2002 might have a hex-head, not sure when they switched on which models. I also bought a funnel with a hose attached from amazon. I used Lightweight shcokproof synth. but many folks claim the OEM and most other GL-5 fluids in the range mentioned in the owners manual are just fine. Automatics have a'wet clutch pack' that lives in the same fluid as the tranny. You should consider doing a 'drain/fill' at least on the transmission. That gets about 1/2 the fluid changed. 3 cycles would be considered close enough to a complete change. There are more extensive approaches to transmission fluid change/flush.

All I can offer at this point is, after I replaced the lube in our Outbacks diff with synth. the whine got a little quieter. This is refereing to the normal whine I could hear - mostly at highway speeds. NOT some condition that came on later, it was always a little noisy. It does seem as though you have the condition localized so, I suppose some type of repair may be in order. I do agree with you that, a low fluid condition 'might' not lead to the problem you have - though you haven't mentioned how many miles are on the car - or more importantly, how many miles since the last (if ever) front diff fluid check/change. If it was low from the fcatory and never serviced, and you have 100,000 miles - then yeah, I suppose that could be a problem. the devil is in the details. There is a magnet on the drain plug - inspecting that and perhaps uploading a pic of what that looks like, might get some useful comments from others here with more experience as to what would be 'normal' vs and obvious overabundance of metal shavings. On my car, there was, perhaps, 1/4 teaspoon of material on the magnet. I doubt much more - maybe less. Could be pinion or other front diff problem I guess. Not good news if so - maybe read this; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106831&highlight=backlash&page=3

hope your wife is doing better. this is an odd problem. Does the sound change during a left sweeping turn vs a right sweeping turn? Wheel bearings will make noises when they are going bad. After driving, see if one hub feels warmer than the other. If you have an infrred thermometer, take some readings of the hub area of the wheels after a drive. Just to be clear, seems like, from the way you mentioned the front diff, this is an automatic? If so, you should know the diff is the stick on the pass side(US) - and the transmission is on the driver's side - right? (hope this is the same arrangement as my wife's Outback) Are the tires in good condition?(all the same model and wear conditions) maybe inspect the inner edge of the front tires for exposed steel belt. Even rotate them front to back to see if the sound changes. Are the brake pads worn? Does the sound change with brake application? maybe the squealer on the pad(s) is dragging. (seems like you've looked at the tires though?)

I would likely never tighten anything with my new electric impact. And, I would avoid using it for loosening 'long' bolts as they might snap where steady pressure would loosen them. But for removing the axle nut, it's awesome!

Not that a car like that couldn't have worn parts, I'm gonna second the 'bad tire' idea.

Get on the phone, call soob dealerships, in several States if necessary, tell the used car manager you're an insurance adjuster and just need to know what an '89 like yours would actually sell for if they had it on their lot. That's about the best you can do. I had to do that when trying to negotiate for an 'odd' older car once - just to get a baseline. Also, if you could come up with receipts for recently rebuilt or new major parts - that could help get a little more. Do NOT do the above and THEN try to buy it back lol!