1 Lucky Texan

a thorough compression test might help you decide where to begin.

I think I'd start with the misfire in cyl 1, and maybe get an exhaust and intake system from a junkyard. not sure really. interesting path you've started down!

http://www.cgperformance.com/subaru_block.htm

And, on other cars, I've had oil filters and oil pressure sending units leak.

sometimes you need to actually get your hands on the rubber boots to find splits. Don't just glance in one area. Also, a replacement axle put on my WRX by Service King after a wreck started leaking grease out the end of the boot. It was never clear to me if it was 'over packed' or the band was loose - just another possible failure mode I guess.

hmmm, if you were really good at masking, you could scrape off ALL the original lines, and then create a 'custom' design for your defogger. maybe something that looks like this;

I dunno, experiment with one trace and see. I don't see how it could hurt. If it doesn't work, just scrape it off and fix it with the permatex stuff.

I haven't used it, but here's one; http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-15067-Window-Defogger-Repair/dp/B000HBI9YQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321335392&sr=8-1

seems like I ran across some Aussie sand rail guys that were filling in to make closed deck blocks. Dunno if they also were drilling out for coolant passages or exactly what.....

Get those axle nuts checked. They can be tightened in the air by sticking a big screwdriver in the rotor vent and using the brake caliper to 'backup' the socket torque. i just replaced an axle this way on the wife's Outback. Supposedly, tightening them on the ground can somehow mess up the bearing? And leaking valvecovers or powersteering lines or ??? could lead to odd smells if the fluid gets on the exhaust.

The wagner's were on sale at RockAuto. I don't recall any name like ThermoQuiet on the box or any other. They DID seem to be long-lasting(they probably had half their life left when I tossed them), but they were were MUCH less grippy than either the stockers or the Centrics on there now.

When was the last time the fluid was replaced? maybe time for new fluid too.

yep, least expensive is definitely most frightening!

Unless you are running high/max performance tires, I think the Stoptech SP pads might be a waste for daily drivers. Try the Centric PQ Ceramic. they are very grippy. Tires stop your car - brakes stop your wheels.

the OEM pads were fine on both my vehicles. The worst pads I tried were Wagner on the wife's outback. So far, VERY pleased with Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic on the Outback - as good or better than OEM, fine intial bite cold - fine modulation - never noticed fade but that car doesn't get any 'performance' use. No noise and doesn't seem to dust any worse than OEM. Running Stoptech Street Performance on the WRX (fronts right now) and they are awesome. They do dust more than OEM. I WILL continue with them. none of those were 'expensive' and I see no reason to change to anything else. got 'em from KNS online.

Got those done this morning. The old bearings felt rough but weren't wobbling. And the tensioner pulley's bolt seemed loose - well, not tight, as in, easily removed. weird. not as easy as an oil change, but much easier than struts!

yeah, definitely check the alt. voltage at higher rpms. I'd re-do every ground connection I could find as well. fuel pressure/volume too.

get/borrow one of those infrared thermometer 'gun'-looking deals and compare temps left-to-right side after a drive. Also, have someone pace the car on foot in a parking lot and listen to one side vs the other. I had bad front bearing after some insurance wreck repair work - there definitely was a coupla millimeters movement rocking the wheel after lifting the car - the other side was immovable. Uh, this was on the front.

Yeah, I did a lot of work on cars in the old days without one and never had a starter or wheel fall off, but, dang it, I paid for the thing, I wanna use it! lol!

Yeah, I figured I'd either just pick some number that seemed appropriate for the bolt size or just wing it by hand if nobody has a value. thanx

Evidently, these pulleys have bearings that fail prematurely. My wife has heard squealing a few times and this weekend, I plan to change the bearings in the idler and tensioner pulleys when I change the serpentine belt. I just haven't found any torque values for re-installing the pulleys. thanx for any help.

The wife has complained of a squealing noise on startup - intermittently - in her 03 OBW 3.0 . Naturally, it hasn't made a peep when I drive it. On another forum, I discovered her car is supposedly prone to having bad serpentine belt idler and tensioner pulley bearings. I bought new bearings from NAPA and a new belt and will probably swap those out soon. anyone here done that? is there a link to pics or a video? Mostly, just wondering if tapping the new bearings in will be adequate. I plan to put the bearings in the freezer, maybe warm the pulleys up. I may look for some Locktite threadlocker or similar to put on the outer race of the new bearings before assembly. thoughts?

yeah, stupid comment from me. but, that episode is kinda fun - basically about a bunch of trading back and forth and a guy gets stuck with these bolts his nephew bought just because they were cheap or something...until the very end and someone needs them badly and it works out OK. maybe it was in the next episode or... I really don't recall the specifics....just never forgot the 'self-sealing stem bolt' phrase. Sounds like they might actually work! lol! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfqeUq7sZPI

moonman, did you wrap three, secure with a water knot, then use 2 for support? lol! looks like fun times!

You need a self-sealing stem bolt. Go see Quark.