1 Lucky Texan

I THINK any should work if it supports the ISO 9xxx protocol. There are actually 4 'types' of OBDII - I know, weird, but the ISO one is what Subes need. there's an Innova one for, maybe $99 that I have borrowed from a friend. it's nice. Carl

take a refridgerator magnet to test for Bondo. Look for overspray. Have someone follwo you on test drive to see if the car tracks straight or 'crabs' down the road. what they said up there. You might could disable spark, listen to the engine turn over while cranking, if it's, ruh,ruh,ruh,ruh,ruh,ruh - even compression, ruh,ruh,REEER,ruh,ruh,ruh - maybe low comp. in that cylinder.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2F&fkr=1&from=R8&satitle=scangauge&category0= I think some folks here have them, maybe they will reply. Carl

would'nt help - even the factory map is set to 'annoying'.

+1 for USRM or some kinda sticky. thanx Carl

I'd try this (the reset) and feeling of all 4 rims after some extended driving to see if one is hot from a dragging brake pad.

pure crystalline genius Carl

Maybe a local Boy Scout Troop could do this? Or work out a deal with Meals on Wheels? I dunno Carl

http://www.subiegal.com/forsale/subiegal-card.jpg

You might enjoy the NA forum over at http://www.nasioc.com . Do a lot of reading and searching there before posting. And just overlook the smart-aleck remarks and keep digging and reading. Again - what do you WANT to do with your car? Suspension bits and 'looks' are easy, raw power will be difficult. A little lag can be helped with a lighter flywheel, lighter (but not under driven) crank, accessory pulleys. And lighter rims have some benefits too. Carl

If you could be very specific about exactly what you want in a car - folks could perhaps suggest the best way to obtain it cheaply. IMHO you can't really 'turn' any other soob 'into' and STI. Yeah, you can improve handling and acceleration and even do engine/drivetrain swaps. Still not as good as starting with an STI and probably more expensive. Do you want to autox? or drag race 1/8-1/4 mile? Is it the 'look' you're after? (my '06 WRX has a 2.5l engine - so are you looking at an older WRX or is the 2l still sold in California????) Carl

anything big enough to stay in the bottom of the pan is - well big enough to STAY in the bottom of the pan and not likely to become a problem is it? I dunno. Carl

Could a damaged tensioner allow enough belt flop to intermittently throw a code? I dunno, could just be coincidence but I'm always suspicious of the last work done causing new problems. Carl

I suppose if you put excessively huge number of miles on the car AND/OR had a mobility problem preventing you from getting under the car but still wanted to do the changes yourself (or a stealthy way to do changes in an apartment complex) it looks like a workable idea. Otherwise, for the money - I'd rather have an oil cooler. Carl

Maybe a mech. could use an ammeter to measure resting current from the battery with alarm on and off. Perhaps there is a 'standard' amount that should be and if you have a parasitic drain it would show. If not, then increased capacity, remote charging or that drain prevention device would seem to be the only options.

No, I have just a regul;ar WRX wagon. To my knowledge the DCCD is only on the STI version of WRX sedan. I suppose the '06 MT legacies also got upgraded (conical?) synchros but I'm not sure. maybe one of these other guys knows. I just mentioned cause it seems to me, if it will bolt up and has no other negatives, may as well get an '06 or '07 5spd . Or maybe there is a rebuild kit with upgraded synchros you could throw in a low mileage junkyard tranny from a pre-'06. sorry - maybe someone else will know more specifically. EDIT; look about halfway down on this page; http://64.71.53.59/trannywr.htm#Transmission%20and%20Gears not cheap - maybe someone elses has a similar kit though for less. Or, wrecking yard '06 tranny if you can find one. I dunno Carl

starting in '06 (at least in the states I guess) the 5 spd has better first gear synchros. I dunno if there could be other differences making it hard to install. Perhaps someone could find a rebuilt/crashed '06 tranny for you? Carl

good find! Carl

I've often felt an alarm beep should sound if the oil pressure light came on while driving. Still, plenty of vehicles have been driven just fine without it. Nice to have - not critical if missing.

Much better than clipping the wires would be to use it for another purpose, forcing an AT vehicle from AWD to 4WD or 2WD, maybe a winch, xtra 'driving' lights, etc. Or, the next time it happens to someone you encounter - make a lowball offer to buy the car with the electrical problem as is! Carl

Uh - dude - your belt is undone. What were you REALLY doing before the crash??? Glad you're mostly OK. Try to find something to learn from the experience. Could you have rolled the tire off the bead? maybe run more air pressure for future 'spirited' driving safety. Carl

One other kinda slim possibility is that the diode trio (actually, whatever does that job nowadays) in the alternator is bad. I've had alts be bad and not show up on dash warning lamps. And I also think investing in an Optima battery might be helpful. Or possibly have a shop rig a second battery in parallel with yours. Carl

If the code is cleared, I wouldn't be too concerned unless it comes back quickly/multiple times. Carl

Huck, this may be a little off-topic, but if you have 'hi performance' plans for this vehicle anyway - check out the center diffs from www.boxer4racing.com . just fyi good luck Carl

see if a 6 pack with drain plug washers from jamie at www.subarugenuineparts.com is cheaper, considering shipping versus taxes. Carl