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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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Some phrases/approaches/attitudes that I have had intermittent success with in the past; "Look them in the eye and say; "If you were in my position and owned this car, how would you feel about its reliability?" or the way Subaru was treating you?" or could you ever recommend Subaru or this dealership to a freiend, coworker or relative? (or, if your wife/daughter were driving this car, how would you feel, etc.) blah, blah - basically try to cut through the 'business barrier' and appeal to them on a human basis. When meeting with someone new I sometimes even ask them "So, how is Subaru treating you? Are they OK to work for?" - like that. If the say - "They all do that" then I point to another vehicle and say - let me drive that one until it does the same thing." or I say "If they all do this, then they are ALL broken and need repairing , you can start with mine." (this came in very handy on 2 occasions with a Ford van) An approach someone else I know has used , is to ask "Why are trying so hard to never do business with me again?" I haven't used that one yet. Sometimes, just sitting in someones office 5 minutes till quitting time, while letting them know you don't intemd to leave until a satsfacory decision has been made, is helpful. Its tricky to get just the right mix of calm, p!ssed off, professional, cooperative and exasperated at the same time. They are human, but even if they are sympathetic, many of them do not have the authority to do what's really needed. You often must go 'up' 3 levels, but when you do, you can often get whatever you want. Oh, you need to formulate exactly what would be a reasonable outcome for yourself - if someone were to ask (not that they will) "What do we need to do to make you a satisfied customer?" You need to have an answer ready. You could have an issue as simple as a loose gas cap - or something crazy multiple sensors AND failing ECU bad from the factory - we certainly don't know because you haven't told us! Carl
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You might check out www.boxer4racing.com - I bought my axleback from them. The website is mediocre so emailing them might be best. Also, some of your questions might need some searching over at www.nasioc.com . I have read that a too light flywheel can cause low speed drivaeability issues and maybe throw a code. I guess if u stay above 12-13 pounds or so might be OK - the 9lb flywheels I think are the problem. I THINK you can find or have made a stainless braided hydra-clutch hose that might help - I dunno. You also consider replacing the trans grrease. Search around here for a thread about that. Redline 75-90NS is liked well as are 2-3 other mixes/fluids. I was surprised how senstive clutching my '06 was to seat position, try one click closer on the seat, lean back a click or 2 for the arm position. whatever. Carl
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Although it certainly could be a manufacturing defect that led to his seat-cloth problem, I can certainly understand a manufacturer being EXTREMELY reluctant to extending a warranty for that. How would they know if someone is constantly in and out of the vehicle that weighs 400 lbs. - or is wearing a tool belt, etc. Still, if the defect is obviously from the factory, getting a 'zone rep' to look at it should be do-able. Sometimes they will split the cost of repair with you or offer to pay the labor if you buy the part/whatever. Carl
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I THINK Cobb has some internals. Also, I THINK an Aussie site has some internals. maybe an Antipodean here knows. Also, there are some sandrail guys that do wild stuff with blocks and internals I think. sorry, maybe someone will have specifics. you might also dig around the NA forum at http://www.nasioc.com Carl
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lighter rims, lighter flywheel (though you can have problems below 11 lbs or so) lighter crank/access. pulleys. Take out all weight you don't need. every 10 lbs or so you take out = about 1 hp.(i've seen numbers fro 8 to 11, probably a ration to vehicle weight actually) If you can call a tow truck or for help when you have a flat - lose the spare and tools. You don;t really NEED a back seat do you? Keep the windows rolled up at freeway speeds. Drag is bad mmkay? Don't be tempted to alter the exhaust except maybe a nice sounding muffler - free-er exhaust can lower/shift max torque. smaller tires can give you a little more grunt down low - but the speedo and odo will be off. go for suspension bits and autoX or rallyX that beast. It will never be a 1/8 or 1/4 miler Carl
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I doubt anyoone can give a minimum safe value. I seem to use one of the lower numbers stated(65 ft/lbs) and have had no problems. Also, I was warned aboout re-torqueing my alloys, as well as taking a torque wrench to the track. If the nuts ever moved - it was too little to notice. As a fatehr of 3 daughters, I can tell you that, even if they manage to have someone else change a wheel for them, its to your advantage to train them in the proper procedure beacuse some good samaritan can really mess up the studs or rims if they don't know what they're doing. Also, if the car is ever parked in a 'questionable' neighborhood, checking the torque occasionally is a good idea because someone may have been interrupted trying to steal the wheels. Carl
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There are some photos/rumors of a test mule for the Impreza/WRX which indicate some changes(framed windows,different grill, maybe 3 and 5 door hatches) for '08 or possibly '09 . Probably more HP and larger, even based on shortened Legacy and assembled in the US. dunno about the Forester check news&rumors and http://www.nasioc.com Carl
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Hah! Good point. In the 'old days' the filler cap was on the valve cover of many cars and the under side of it could get this chocalate 'mousse' looking stuff on it(coolant oil emulsion) - probably from vapor/spray right off the rockers. I dunno nowadays - maybe inspect the dipstick along its length above the fill line? Carl