1 Lucky Texan

I'm not sure you're missing anything - be interesting to see if one side has slipped valve timing. You could try holding a small stip of paper to the tail pipe. If it tries to 'suck in' that could mean a valve is open when it shouldn't be. I dunno if that trick works if timing is off by just 1 or 2 teeth though. Maybe there is a fuel pressure/delivery problem?

http://jalopnik.com/5058493/subaru-boxer-diesel-unveiled-for-forester-impreza-and-legacy-in-paris

check the tranny, maybe they over/underfilled it. check the front diff too, just in case someone messed with it.

I've seen an extensive thread on superton installataion for Impreza s. Here's one aimed at Legacy owners; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22102 fyi Carl

six cyl diesel seems to be in the works! 4/24 Boxer Diesel review. 'Now that the air-cooled Volkswagen Beetle and its siblings rest in peace, only Porsche and Subaru stand by the boxer-engine principle. In a worldwide first, the Japanese have now taught the horizontally opposed piston engine to feed on diesel fuel. The layout? A 2.0-liter, aluminum-block, four-cam four-cylinder. We tried the promising fuel miser in the Legacy sedan and the Outback wagon, and we came away impressed. Like all horizontally opposed engines, Subaru's new diesel eliminates second-order shaking forces. The end result is a smoothness - and a lack of noise - not usually associated with an oil burner. The 148-hp four-cylinder revs to a 4400-rpm redline, and although it's not ridiculously quick (60 mph arrives in 8.5 seconds, according to Subaru), prompt accelerator-pedal response and a wide, middle-of-the-tach sweet spot go a long way. Fuel economy is expected to average about 40 mpg in Legacy-based applications, and top speed will likely approach 130 mph. Subarus' diesel hits Europe this month, but happily, its stateside arrival isn't far off - American Subaru dealers are due to see it in 2010. Subaru of America has not yet decided which vehicles it will offer with the diesel, but the Legacy, the Outback, and the Forester seem like obvious candidates. As one would expect, the usual modern diesel equipment will be present, including common-rail, high-pressure fuel injection; four valves per cylinder; a particulate filter; and a variable-vane turbocharger. If 148 hp doesn't seem like much, fear not: an output bump is reportedly in the works, along with a six-cylinder variant sporting up to 300 hp for certain markets. Incidentally, Subaru is also working on combustion tweaks and a more sophisticated catalyst that will allow its diesels to meet emissions regulations without using urea injection. The mood in-house is nothing if not ambitious. "We think we're on the right track," states a senior Subaru engineer. "In a few years, 30 percent of all Subarus will be diesel-powered." That's a hefty goal, especially since it remains to be seen if diesel cars will really catch on in America. For now, however, Subaru has made a commendable first step.' the article

oops! sry if WTLW. here's a pic to make up!

http://www.topspeed.com/cars/subaru/2008-subaru-tribeca-36-h6-ar56023.html

ZOMG! Yeah, for decades it seemed that anything on the front cover would NEVER happen! lol! Carl

DOH! (or should that be: DOH1)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/blogs/automotive_news/4255284.html

poor article I think but; http://autopark.blogspot.com/2008/03/diesel-subaru-at-200-hp-new-version.html

In looking back, I see I wasn't clear. After returning to A'zone after an hour or so, they said the battery boild out its acid and was sulpahted AFTER THEIR TESTING. I 'assume' they charge it, load it, maybe repeat? During some portion of that, I guess the battery either overheats or 'outgasses' such that fluid escapes? Anyway, I'm inclined to just wait and see how the new battery behaves. thanx for the ideas, opinions and moral support. I sometimes am hesitant to try even simple things without advice from others. I have some book learning, but certainly not as much experience as 2-3 or more of you guys put together! Carl

A'zone says the battery boiled out its acid and was heavily 'sulphated'. Got a replacement. (3 year full replacement - pro-rated after that. The battery was purchased in 9/06 !) Just now tried some of the same tests. idle no-load 14.1 - 14.2 volts. moderate load 13.9 - 14.0 heavy load - 12.6 2500 rpm - 14.1 - 14.2 at low and moderate loads. (didn't wanna put it in gear at 2500!) Some other interesting observations. My 'gut' feeling about the charge rate seems to be born out by the fact that this battery causes the rate to 'back off' much less quickly than the old one. I suspect the capacity was just so low that it was behaving like a small motocycle battery in effect. No single bad cell - just 6 very poor cells. Now the question is - should I still have the alternator tested? (OBTW - I haven't tested for parasitic loads but, since the charger will indicate 'ful', I suspect any parasitic drain would be either intermittent or only present when the car was 'on' or running. Plus, since the capacity was so low, a drain would likely have killed the batt quite quickly. Instead, it seemed it would hold enough for 2-3 starts, even over a couple of days, before finally needing a jump. perhaps there is some internal drain as well?) i dunno - I may make som compariosons with my WRX using my little charger. That way I have some baseline from a system that is not an 'unknown' so-to-speak. this is what I have; http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/Product-Details.aspx?ProductID=17922 Carl

Some info on the web seems to indicate the H6 may have a spring-loaded automatic tensioner. Probably one of the idlers. I just need to figure out which one and how to pry it i guess. My 'plan' is to take the battery to A'zone (its a 3 year replacement duralast from them) and let them charge/load test it. If it fails - I get a replacement battery, put it in the car and THEN have the car's charging system tested. If they say the battery is OK - I'll do the same, but this way, if the battery is marginal/bad, it removes a 'confusion factor' for their alternator test. Carl

I think the previous post may be more likely to apply to our H6 . The way the belt goes around MY alt., I don't think would be tightened by swinging the alt. like shown in that pic. The belt does a complete 180 ( U )around the alt pulley. with the 'open' part towards the driver's side. I'll try to look at the idlers more closely. thanx Carl

No amp or any other accessories.. What's weird ishow low the charge current is after she reports needing a jump start. If the battery were really discharged - I'd expect high current from the charger. I'd almost bet there were 2 problems here - reduced capacity in the battery AND a marginal alt. She says it starts right up when jumped. So I don't think there's any neutral safety or starter problems. And probably the cables are good at the starter. Also the plates are covered with electrolyte. Nipper - any chance you could explain how the tension is adjusted? I couldn't find anything. Carl

OK, warmed up. rpm approx 700-750 I guess. no load - fairly steady 14.2 volts moderately loaded - 13.1 severely loaded(rpm about 600) - 12.5 to 12.9 or 13 (varied with A/C cycling) rpm 2200 to 2600 14.2 to 14.4 no load, moderate load, fully loaded. wonder if I had a scope if I'd see any excessive ripple? How come systems nowadays never seem to go bad in such a way as to light the 'battery' or 'charging' warning lamps? I had an Oldsmobile that lit the battery light very dimly when the diode trio was bad. My daughter's Nissan had a bad alt. and never lit the battery light either. weird. maybe tomorrow i'll make sure its charged well and let A'zone test it all under load. Carl

belt looks OK inside and out. (no cracks - not shiny /glazed looking) Dunno how it tightens, couldn't locate an adjustment. Seems tight enough though. The charger backed down to under 2 amp charge rate fairly quickly. Kinda weird. Will try further testing if I can.

http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content/about_us/current/may_2002/images/usmap_zones_lg.jpg just fyi Carl

Yeah, our climate is tough on batteries. I 'try' to check the water level every 3-4 months. But I'm really focused on the low voltage I saw during the 'alt check' on my charger. Could be a glazed slipping belt I guess too. I have some distractions at home right now (last daughter and her BF moving out) but, if I can't do further diagnostics some night this week, it will be Sunady before I can concentrate on it. Just keep putting the charger on it till then I suppose! thanx guys Carl

I just cleaned the terminals. I'm not a fan of them. Their construction seems to limit the surface area that contacts the posts(they have a sort of 'strip' of metal at the top and bottom instead of being a full 'split cylinder'). My 'gut' says the battery is OK. Charged it days ago and it 'seems' to charge well and indicates correct voltage. It is the second battery for the car (batts only last about 3 years here) . I think I'll give Autozone a chance to put their load box on. Its their battery too. (3 year full replacement!) Also, I'll try all the accessories but rev to 2500 (right?) thanx Carl

My wife's outback seems to not charge well. After a few jumpstarts I did a little investigation a few days ago. I have this black and decker charger that has a few limtied functions. One is an 'alternator check'. It seemed to not like the voltage it saw when I turned on some accessories. It was as low as 13.1 . Today her car needed a jump again. The battery seems to charge well enough. Is 13.1 really too low? (again, I had well over 14 with no accessories on - had to turn on the fan, seat heaters and headlights to get as low as 13.1) Is the voltage regulator built into the alternator? Is there a known short lifespan on these? (6 cylinder alts.? 100amps? ) Her car only has about 40k miles! I can't detect any parasitic drains but I may try to get an ammeter on it this weekend. Carl

Or airboat or truck engine (towing). Or think about using some of the parts for a built gasoline race engine! Carl

some pics, maybe a coupla new details http://techon.nikkeibp.co.jp/english/NEWS_EN/20080222/147866/