1 Lucky Texan

more likely O2 sensors (at least the front one) if they've never been replaced.

Never got more than 5 years and that was stock Honda batt (Yuasa) in '78 Civic. Most batts here are doing good to get much past 3-4 years. I think in cold you need CCA, in heat you need 'reserve capacity'? something like that.

I believe there was a thread on polishing the pitted,yellow plastic - don't recall the outcome. maybe a search?

We ALWAYS have questions about interference - the above post should be stickyed or otherwise added to info. about which MYs or engines are/are not interference. good info - thanx and sorry about the 'threadjack'.

If you look you can usually get 90%(IIRC) Isoprpyl on the shelf of the drugstore. But I think some denatured alchol (mostly ethanol with methanol added to poison you on purpose if you try to drink it) from the paint depertment would work and be a little cheaper than dry gas from the carparts place.

I think my '03 H6 is about the same.

I can't attest to its accuracy, but I did find this once before, maybe helpful. http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/wheels.html also, check http://www.tirerack.com

How do keep 'em from putting that stuff in my H6 ?

It's quite possible your project is so unique that there won't be a huge anount of direct information available, having said that I believe you would be well served to get the message out on as many forums as possible. The other message boards I'd suggest are, http://www.nasioc.com and http://www.i-club.com both of which have some 'conversion' type info (most helpful for you probably) as well as 'tuner' type enthusuaists. good luck

Also, I'm just throwing another long shot here, maybe an alternator problem. Some type of internal, heat related short. The 10 minute wait thing is kinda weird. Was there a recall on soob alts.? Does her '98 fall into that recall? maybe Autozone or some indie. mechanic could pull the CEL code. Might not be the same code each time. Also, I like snotty's relay idea, a device possibly affected by BOTH braking and heat - 10 minute wait for reset-type idea. good luck and post back OK?

I think there may be enough trend here to report this to NHTSA, at least they will collate the info and perhaps contact Subaru. Seems like it could be interpreted as a safety related failure, in the sense that a chunk of steel rod could become a hazard flopping around under the car.

You should consider a set of lightened pulleys and, if MT, a lightened flywheel too.

Man what a puzzler! Seems like braking is one common element, perhaps either an electrical intermittent caused by the engine/drivetrain shifting forward during braking - maby a loose ground. Pulling and pushing on some wiring harnesses while the engine is idling mighjt divulge something. Or perhaps an issue with a vacuum leak, a major one in the brake booster - though I doubt it would kill the engine - anyone? sorry that's all I got.

If the knock can be confirmed to be piston slap - then it's probably OK. Does it go away/reduce when engine warms up? Possible (though not usually reported on this engine? anyone?) bad TB tensioner allowing TB to flop around, a 'rubbed' spot inside the TB cover would confirm that if you can't feel it when the engine is running. If it's 'pre-igniton detonation/knock' see if it diminishes with high octane gas - could be an ECU or knock sensore issue. just some ideas - let us know.

Well, at least it doesn't look like the offspring of a liason between a BMW and a Pontiac Aztek - It looks like the AFTERBIRTH!

I hope they gurantee those used ones to run true. Thanx for posting back!

In theory, the valve springs should want to close the valves, moving them away from each other. But I guess in the real world ,some combination of the belt stretching, skipping, breaking, shearing off teeth, PLUS inertia could cause valve clash. I recall Emily at CCRengines saying they have seen engines with piston/valve clash. I don't recall if she said which engines do this.

Never really thought about it before but is there a recommended fluid change interval for PS fluid? Seems like it could - over a long period - collect water and other contaminates. Sitting around for sometime could allow water to settle into the rack instead of being suspended I guess?

Found another link that may help; http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/wheels.html Hey - um, let usknow what you get OK? I'd like to see what you choose.

Though I'd expect it to squeal, perhaps the drive belt is slipping ?

Others here will have good info for you but I just happened to have read some about this. The best thing to look for is an offset above about 45-48 and 'Subaru hubcentric'. Some wheels will have a hub opening too big and an adapter ring may be available to make the wheel fit tightly. Rota makes some wheels which are popular for Subarus, high end is SSR and Volk I guess. 5/100mm is the pattern. You might check http://www.subydude.com and http://www.tirerack.com Sometimes, when other soob drivers upgrade their wheels you can find 'takeoffs' pretty cheap - try our own Marketplace forum here. good luck

At least you located it. Did some retainers break? just curious.

WOW! sounds like a candidate for a Click and Clack the Tappett Brothers semi-automotive puzzler! You should SO send it in to them! http://cartalk.cars.com/Radio/Puzzler/

If you have proper mix of coolant, it would be greenish and liquid (possibly slushy if close to it's freezing point. How far away is this point from A/C drain line? (I know, really far-sigh) fun mystery

How difficult to check the strut top mount? A stretch I know but maybe the strut is loose up there?