subarubrat

I did the BRAT with a about a half gallon, fairly thick.

The bed liner is freakin great! That and my seats are the Summit racing seats that are totally weather proof. I can clean the inside and outside at the carwash!

Ditch the carpets, apply bedliner to the floor and fear water no more.

Are the intake runners oily?

A friend of mine was converting his Loyale from SPFI to turbo and he got the MPFI harness and ECU under the direction that the MPFI ECU can be converted to turbo use by connecting a jumper on the board. He never finished the project so I have no idea if the concept is accurate.

I remember seeing those back in the 80's in the JC whiteny and Johnson Smith Things you never knew existed catalogs. I am pretty sure they are crap.

The tranny in it right now is from an 87. But it is a simple issue to find a throwout bearing with the right ID and OD sizes.

Forgot to mention I have Ranchos on the front too in parallel with the struts, that is another monster leap forward.

Back when I had an EA81 in mine with the ECU controlled carb I had a similar problem, but in my case the ECU was actuating a "feedback solenoid" that was cutting the fuel so the engine would die. To fix the problem I unplugged the ECU and hurled it as far into the woods as it would go, then I drove it without further incident.

FYI, it is 8 inches, 6 body 2 suspension. Yep, Ranchos all the way, adjustable like crazy from real soft to nearly locked up. To find the one you need go to: http://www.gorancho.com/documents03/03_catalog_specs_1.pdf AND use this as the key to decipher the mounting codes: http://www.gorancho.com/documents03/03_shock_specs.pdf I reccomend the 9000X adjustables, the RSXs are good as well. Even the 5000s are a tremendous improvement. Just measure the distance from your top mount to your bottom mount (this will vary based on your ammount of lift). Then choose one that has a extended and compressed length that your measurement falls between. Measure the distance between the bolt hole centers on the top and choose the XP code that matches. For the bottom, I believe the code is LS42. Double check though, I wish I had written down the codes. Either way, it took me about 5 min. to find the right codes and length.

Took them to a machine shop that made a template, drill pressed and splined them for a perfect fit. Others have used a hand drill, I tried and had a hub of shame, so I took it to a shop with the gear.

They remind me ALLOT of late 70's vette seats. They lock you in tight and with the 5 point you really wear the truck and control is very very different when you are stationary. The padding is good and you can sit in them a long time. Getting in and out is not as easy as normal seats of course but so what. Just make sure you get the set because the frame is allot like stock BRAT bed mounted seats. Oh, and they are REALLY weatherproof.

FAN FRIGGIN TASTIC!!!!!!!!

They are from Summit Racing and they are cut for regular 5 point or lap harnesses. They are very reasonable and super durable. Adapting the brackets is a 1 hour job. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DCSUM101

Tom, I could easily weld the rails to another seat for you. Just get your seats and well do it. Here is my setup:

After I declare the BRAT to be done and just where I want it, my next project will be a 360. I love that car. Drop it to the ground, nice fat Austin Mini wheels and tires, and a Hyabusa motorcyle engine and transmission.

That doesn't give them special licsense to behave like asses. Truth told 90% of them are professional, but 1 out of 10 makes them look bad because you hear about the bad more than the good, like anything else.

There has been zero movement, but that idea makes allot of sense, I have some neophrene tubing that will be perfect.

Here it is, simple as can be. Just fold the end over a wire to shape a retaining clamp. Leave it open just enough to fit over the line then you can close the clamp over the line after it is mounted. I welded mine to the fender well. If you don't have access to a welder, drill a pilot hole and use a self tapping screw.

Optima. I run them in my car and truck and they are phenominal and will suck up a great deal of load without a problem. Plus they will outlast several changes of normal batteries.

Meeky, do you still need that picture of my brake line holder? I have my camera handy.

Love those wipers with no windshield...... Intermittent: WHACK ... ... ... WHACK ... ... ... WHACK ... ... ... WHACK low WHACK ... WHACK ... WHACK ... WHACK ... WHACK hi: WHACK WHACK WHACK WHACK WHACK WHACK I feel for you Meeky. I got a ticket this summer for an "Illeagal exhaust" on the Impreza. I am guilty as hell of course, 3 inch straight pipe from the turbo to the tail. I have had it for three years and this is the first one I got. But here in Va it is all about subjective law. A harley, or pre 1980 car can be as loud as possible, any import cannot. A truck can be lifted depending on make, domestic can be lifted any height, imports 3 or 4 inches, and cars not at all.

Those machine guns are the dog's balls.

Sounds like metal fautigue with all that constant bouncing. Get some Ranchos front and rear.

The Coopers are a good choice. But also check out the Mickey Thompson Baja Belted in the same size range.