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Showing results for tags '1997'.
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Another A/T Binding Issue, my apologies Vehicle: 1997 Legacy L Sedan (203,000 miles) Engine: 2.2 Liter Transmission: 4EAT Symptoms: Severe binding during turns, even slight deviation from straight ahead. Seems to lack power but that could be normal, as this is my first experience with Subaru. Checks performed: Tires and wheels match, pressure checked OK FWD fuse installed, binding relieved but transmission noisy (whine) ECU and TCM code retrieval procedure performed, no codes present (2hz) Checked ATF, looked old/burnt, drained and refilled once (will repeat) Checked Differential gear oil, at proper level and seemed fine Checked rear end, lifted rear of car with transmission in neutral, both wheels rotate freely and rotating either results in opposite wheel remaining stationary or opposite rotation. Manually rotated driveline, results in both wheels rotating in the same direction, everything seems free, no resistance noted Checks in progress: Disconnect 16 pin multi-connector aft of throttle body on bell housing and check resistance of each sensor/solenoid If all sensor/solenoids measure correctly, reconnect and check voltages/resistances at TCM Help, Advice Requested!!! Am I proceeding down a logical path for the symptom noted or should I be heading elsewhere? Please advise! Electrical Engineer playing mechanic with Daughter's car! Thanks Navet Update, Sensor/Solenoid resistance readings: Vehicle Speed Sensor 1 450-720 Ohms (expected) 541 Ohms (Actual) Correct ATF Temperature Sensor 2100-2900 Ohms @ 68F 4200 Ohms @ ~35F (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "A" 1.5-4.5 Ohms (Expected) 3.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "B" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 13.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 1 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.5 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 2 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.4 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 3 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 25 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "C" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 33 Ohms (Actual) Houston, I think we have Problem! I assume this means Solenoid "C" is bad? looking for confirmation before I pull the tail shaft housing. Thanks again.
- 6 replies
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- transmission
- transaxle
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So I just picked up a 97 Legacy Outback with 130k for $3000. It had the stock radio in it until one day I took it out to hook up a sub and amp. When I took the stereo out I tore 2 wires on accident. A yellow wire and a green and white wire. I connected them and put the radio back in seeing as it isn't compatible with a sub or amp. The radio wasn't working so I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the fuse, still no radio, ensured the wires that tore were connected and they were. Still nothing. Think I fried the radio? Im about to go on a 4 hour road trip in a few days and I want some tunes. Help?
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I have a spot or rust under the glass top left of the left 3/4 panel. There is a piece of plastic 'chrome' trim I will need to remove to repair rust. Can this piece of trim be removed without taking out glass? It's night here, sorry about the bug in the picture.
- 2 replies
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- Legacy Wagon
- 1997
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I am trying to find the correct part number so I can replace these two hoses. At sixteen years and 241,000 miles I am, over time replacing all of the hoses. Picture is from Chilton's manual. I think if I removed them I could easily match them up to rockauto pictures, but I could easily damage them too. Thanks for your help.
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I have major back problems and want to upgrade the struts (maybe spings) and mounts. My aim is not to lower (lots of snow up here), but to improve ride comfort. Not necessarily softer, just smoother. I can't find anything here or elsewhere regarding this. Any informed opinion would be really helpful. Given the cost of the upgrades (vs car value) I can't try a number of systems. Thanks in advance, I am a newbie here. I will be doing the install myself, but will pay someone else to do the alignment.