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Vehicle: 1986 Subaru GL Wagon, Dual Range 5 Speed, Carbureted, Weber 32/36 Converted Issue: No longer getting Fuel Pump Signal to the Pump. It would be intermittent, but now seems to be consistent with getting no Signal. I've heard from @Gloyale that the 6 pin Fuel Pump Controller (Relay) only sends power to the pump when there is a Tachometer Pulse on the yellow wire... Is that Signal originated from the Distributor? Also I've heard from @GeneralDisorderin regards to the Controller, that: "The wire going to the pump is usually a blue with red stripe. The control unit will also have a yellow tach signal, black ground wire, and an ignition hot supply (white I think)." Background: The problem began intermittently... if I had an issue with the pump, I could either add Fuel directly to the carburetor to prime the system. Or, I could apply power directly to the Fuel Pump to also Prime the system. Occasionally I would have to do both in order to get the vehicle to run. Once the pump was working, it would not cut-out mid-trip. Not until the vehicle was turned off and then tried to be re-started later; would an issue happen, where I would have to do one off the pre-mentioned priming methods. Now the pre-mentioned priming methods no longer work... What kind of tests can I do to see what needs replacing? I'd like to have the wiring stay this way it was from the factory... however if not I could wire the fuel pump to a switch, racecar style... I'm not sure though; does the tach Signal increase/decrease pump speed based on engine speed? Thanks for reading, hope to keep my Wagon on the Road!
Jump battery every 2 weeks if I don't drive it
F. Tinker posted a topic in Crosstrek "XV"Less than 1 year old 2020 Crosstrek with < 7k miles as I don't drive it often. I have jumped the battery at least 4 times because if I don't drive my car every week it drains. I took it into the shop and they said it is normal you have to drive your car weekly. So that means I cannot go on vacation more than 1 week or leave my car at the air port longer than a week otherwise I would have to get it jumped. Does that sound normal to you all? Is it true that if you dont drive your brand new car at least every week it will die because it has a parasitic leak? Sounds crazy that I will have to either have someone come and start my car every week or have a jumper company on my speed dial so I can call them when I get off the plane and ask they have my car jumped before I get to it. OMG! I would not recommend this car during a pandemic, people that work at home or the older generations that don't drive it every week. Any ideas on what I can do?
So the other day I was installing a new car stereo in the car as I wanted to change all the stock speakers as well as add some bluetooth functionality to the car. After installing all of the door speakers, I installed some tweeters into the stock location (in the dash). I had to shove them up into the location as did not want to remove the whole dash. Now heres the issue... After installing everything correctly, my climate control will not work at all! The only thing that works is adjusting the blower! I cant turn on the A/C,change where it comes out, or turn on the defrost! When I Push the button none of the lights come on only the illumination lights come on at night! this all started happening after I installed the tweeters as I had the stereo in for awhile before this happened. So I'm wondering if I bumped/broke a cable or something. I also should mention that my tire pressure light is on even though all my tires are filled correctly and my cruise control turns on but I am unable to set it! Any help would be nice!
Hi, another 2000 subaru legacy/liberty problem. So far i have researched as much as i can about this problem but just want to firm up my understanding in this post. So the car has 145,000kms (90,000m) and has had full head gasket replacement along with timing belt ect ect. The new problem has occurred probably two years following this which started with the engine light flashing on during start up or whilst driving with limited power and significant lag between pushing the pedal. The light would then go off and the car would function normally. I have been meaning to take the car in for service when today the car would jolt into the gears and not change during the same rpm that it usually does. I am pretty freaked out by the whole thing and want to confirm a few things before rushing and replacing the transmission which seems to be the consensus on these forums. Initially i thought the O2 sensor could be the blame for the engine light and power lag problem if anyone could shed some light on this that would be great. So my first question would be do i pursue the Trans X method and try that along with flushing the fluid and replacing. The car has had the delay between reverse and drive issue but the delay was less than one second and has never really been a concern. Any advice is welcome, thank you in advance.
So im trying to replace my manual transmission input shaft seal, and after removing the 3 bolts ive been unable to remove the plate. I cant find anything on it in my manual. Its a 5 speed manual dual range trans out of an 87 gl wagon. IVe got it about an inch out, but it doesnt seem to be a plate like i thought before its more of a shaft with an oring... im confused, and since i have no guide to go off of.... i need help!
EA82 Idle Issue (Cyclic Idle)
jj421 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...I am so tired of dealing with my car's idle problem. If I can get it fixed once and for all, I'll be the happiest man alive. Now my car has developed a new idle issue. I still have my other idle issue, where I have to rev it to keep it from stalling. However, this issue has started appearing more and more often over the past few weeks. Basically what happens is the idle goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, etc. Much like "cyclic idles" that you see on tuned cars. It does then when it's supposed to be idling (obviously). If it's idling and the car is moving (like if I'm coasting in neutral to a stop sign), it'll do this cyclic idle. However, once I come to a stop, the idle will return to normal. Very recently, it is now doing it all the time though. Here's a video of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBu3RJIZrk&feature=youtu.be It's like it's trying to rev up to a kinda high idle, but then it get cut off. I don't really know how to explain it. The only CEL code I have is for "air control valve or circuit". I have replaced and cleaned the IACV twice now using junkyard units. Whatever I've done has made absolutely no difference. I've thought about replacing the wiring harness that goes to the IACV, but my testing says I might not need to. I've got power going to the IACV plug and resistances are within tolerances. The only thing I haven't tested is the ECU. Again, my previous idle issue is still there. It kinda feels like if there's water in the intake or something, since I've driven into deep mud before. However, I have sprayed every little and big vacuum hose in the engine bay with carb cleaner and haven't noticed any leaks. Sprayed the intake manifold gaskets, TBI, intake, PCV, and I didn't notice anything. My car has an exhaust leak and a misfire when idling, although it drives fine. Also, I have replaced my CTS twice. Currently have a brand new one in there, and it reads correct resistance at all temperatures. 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 N/A So, I'd like some help with this. I'm hoping that this new issue could be a possible fix for my other idle issue. My other idle issue seems to be OAT related: when it's warm outside, it'll idle fine. When it's cold outside, it won't want to idle and I have to rev it to keep it from dying. Has nothing to do with engine temperature; just outside air temperature. Any ideas? I can't stand this idle issue. My main issue is just plain dangerous, and this cyclic idle is annoying (and embarrassing, really).