uss_essess Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Finally got my 1989 GL NA 5psd d/r IM'd, got down to the DMV to get it registered, and just my luck, as I go to leave with my brand new tags and registration, she wouldn't start. FML. Turned over a couple times and then gave up. So I took the battery out, got a ride home, charged it up overnight, and came back the next morning in the dark and on no sleep, and proceeded to put the battery in backwards and tried to start her. Oops. I got nothing. No lights of any kind, no horn, wipers, etc. The only thing that I could find that DID still work were the electric door locks. Got it towed home, and took a look. Here is what I know so far. The black fusible link is toast. It looks like the PO tried to 'fix' it with a wire nut. When I pulled the red fusible link out and used it to replace the black one, I got all my dash lights back, except my CEL. I had read that might mean I fried the ECU. Does that sound right? My headlights and horn were also not working. When I put the red link back, and jumped the black link all I got was a whine and the tach jumped to about 2k rpm. Not sure where to go from here, except to check all the fuses and replace the ECU and fusible links. Gonna replace the battery, and probably my battery cables as well. I pulled my starter and alternator and had them tested, and both were fine. What else should I check or replace? Also, my ECU has a part number '22611 AA392'. How close of a match do I need to find to replace it with? Will any late 80's NA spfi w/a MT do? As for fusible links, what is the best source for those? I know I can buy fusible link wire online of the same size (1.25 mm^2) and make my own, but would that work? Are they all rated for the same amperage? Or would I be better off just grabbing one from another car? I don't know of any junk yards to go poking around in up here, which sucks, since we have a ton of old gen subarus still hanging on up here. I know we have a couple Alaskans hanging out on the boards, so do any of you know of a good place to go for old parts in or around Anchorage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Any SPFI ECU will work. Try to stick with a GL ECU (rather than a Loyale), and one with the same style tranny as your's. Good chance you fried the ECU. That's a noted issue in the factory service manual. I would try the wanted forum. Lots of folks here that can get ECU's and fusibile links from yards. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrettenmayer Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 I have a '90 Loyale ( I think - might be older) SPFI parts car. I could pull the ECU and fuseable link out of that if you want it. I dunno if it's good, but I'll give it to ya cheap! I'm in Montana tho...not AK. justin.rettenmayer@gmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 have an 89 GL, NA SPFI, FWD 5 spd that we are parting out - KNOWN runner!! could have the ECU & a fuse link out today and ready for shipping if you are in dire need (only drawback is shipping time - from Wisconsin) even have some flat rate priority shipping boxes on hand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 You can make your own links if you have the proper wire to do it with. The black link is 1.25 like you stated. The red link is .85mm and the green is .5mm. Once you get the power back to normal then check things out. Hopefully you didn't damage the ECU. Things like motors, relays, switches, and lights won't be a problem with reverse polarity because it doesn't matter which way current flows in them. It is electronic items, like the ECU, that can be damaged. I think the ECU has a reverse polarity protection diode in it on the power lead but sometimes even that doesn't help for this kind of error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 On an old saab I had, there was a sticker on the inner fender well that said if the battery was hooked up wrong the alternator could be destroyed.So the alternator might be a good thing to check out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 Usually when someone does this, they fry either the main fuse or the fusable links or both. Also check the Alt, usually damage doesnt travel much beyond those parts. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 The FSM claims that if the battery is connected reverse for more than 1.5 seconds you will damage the ECU. I would just get another and give it a try. They are common enough and rarely fail so it should be a problem. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 The FSM claims that if the battery is connected reverse for more than 1.5 seconds you will damage the ECU. was there a zap? That would be less then 1.5 seconds. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 I did the same thing on my '85 wagon and i fried the black link and the alternator wiring harness started smoking. All i had to do was replace the fusible link and it fired right up. But there is no ECU in the carbed engines (i believe)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 I'm in Fairbanks and have tons of GL/Loyale SPFI Ecu's. I work at the biggest Subaru Junkyard in the interior, and prolly all of Alaska. Could have it down there in a day or two depending on the postal service. maybe sooner if we can find someone driving down from up here. If you are interested, pm me and I'll give you my fone # Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uss_essess Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 So I threw a new ECU and fusible link in there. Still no dice. I got all my dash lights back, but my CEL still does not come on. Is it possible my ECU is not getting power? How/where would I check that? When I turn my key, my tachometer jumps up to 2k-3k rpm and stays there constantly. Anyone else ever have that problem? What could cause that? I checked all my fuses, and all were fine except my Horn/Hazards/Clock fuse. Replaced it, and got all three back in one form or another. My horn seems to work fine, but my hazards/turn signals both come on solid and stay that way, and my clock will light up, but doesn't appear to be working. I will switch out the flasher and see if that fixes it. Radio is also dead, despite the fuse testing fine. Looks like I may have toasted that as well. Oh Joy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 You have a tough scenario here - you originally had problems to begin with. We have no idea what that is. Then you reversed the battery polarity and fried some other stuff. Let's keep this simple: Does the car turn over? Does it get spark? Are the timing belts good? A bad distributor (crank angle sensor) is my guess, but there's certainly multiple things that could be the issue here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Do you have MPFI or SPFI? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uss_essess Posted November 28, 2009 Author Share Posted November 28, 2009 Ugh. So my step-dad fiddled around with it today, and now she runs. He says all he did was recharge the battery and clean up the terminals. God I hate him. lol. Runs with both the old and new ECU. They both give 6 short blinks of the LED. Is that the norm? Still not getting a CEL or Oil Pressure light. Am I right in assuming that they should come on with the key in the ON position? I know the CEL bulb still works. Everything else seems to work, except the stereo. Will take it out for a test run tomorrow and see how she drives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 The six ECU flashes are normal. I think it states what model of transmission you have. Since the CEL light doesn't work you are going to have to check the wiring to the bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.