February 22, 201016 yr I am having alot of trouble removeing the Crank Pulley Bolt On my EA82 Loyale(1993). A friend Of mine,(An Automotive Technician) suggested that I might try to remove the Radiator/Condensor/Grill so that I could Get My 1/2 inch Impact gun in there to remove the Bolt. Any body agree/Disagree with this method? Think it will work? Any other suggestions are also welcomed. Thanks in advance.
February 22, 201016 yr If you can make enough room to do it, I say do it. Sounds like the kind of approach with the least amount of potential trouble. What have you thrown at it so far?
February 22, 201016 yr thats allot of disassembly to go thru. you could try to use a screwdriver or punch in the flywheel. and a big breaker bar, you can take the rubber plug off the top of the trans to get access, sometimes there a big problem. someone probably used lock tight on it. they come off all the time
February 22, 201016 yr you could try to use a screwdriver or punch in the flywheel. Or he could just leave it in gear with the handbrake on..........
February 22, 201016 yr 1/2" ratchet + socket. Smack the end of the ratchet handle with a sizeable hammer that has some weight. I use a hand sledge. Repeat until the bolt comes loose. You could prop a breaker bar against the frame rail and hit the starter - though I prefer the first method. Possible that it's too tight for the 1/2" gun. Just do one of the above. You should get used to using the first method as it's the best for junk yards. GD
February 22, 201016 yr butt a breaker bar against the driver side framerail, and bump the key. if you go taking the radiator out to use an impact, make sure you use the impact to install the pulley bolt when finished. be careful that the crank pulley bolt doesnt fall out and chew up the crank, if it was installed with not enough torque
February 22, 201016 yr +1 for breaker bar and bump key I've been doing that for years and it works every time.
February 22, 201016 yr just a reminder. if you use the starter, make sure you un-plug the coil wire so it won't start!
February 23, 201016 yr +1 for the Thing in the Flywheel. Until I got my father in law's Special Tool Made For That Purpose, I used a steel rod that came out of an old floppy drive. But if you use such an article, be sure you don't drop it into the bellhousing. If you do drop it into the bellhousing, do not try to pull it out with a magnet. Do not try to separate the engine and transmission. Instead, note that there is a removable plate at the bottom of the bellhousing. No need to ask how I know what not to do in this situation. That was at least 200 posts ago .
February 23, 201016 yr If all else fails you can thread 1/4" nylon rope into the #1 cylinder on the comp. stroke till it can't turn over. That works as well. Typically I use the "hand impact" method with ratchet and hand-sledge because it requires no battery, no starter..... no car in fact. That and I don't like bumping starters and throwing breaker bar's into the neighbor's yard. I've done it, but it's a pretty unprofessional move IMO. GD
February 23, 201016 yr Somewhere in the Older generation archives is the advice to drill a small diameter hole through the top of the bell housing for manual trans vehicles in order to drop a phillips screwdriver into the flywheel rim holes. I've done this with all my ea82 vehicles and it works 100% of the time to allow loosening of the crank pulley.
February 23, 201016 yr see the title had me thinking this was a whole other subject, that someone had finally had enough and was going to shoot their crank pulley... I was open to the idea, having had the same idea myself at different times with different repairs +1 for smart rap of the hammer on a breaker bar, the instantaneous impact can break things loose with a minimum of fuss, if you have a well fitting socket and can get the right angle on the bar
February 23, 201016 yr I used the breaker bar and starter method when I redid the head gaskets in my RX last month. We had the breaker bar sitting against the garage floor though so it didn't fly away.
February 23, 201016 yr Author see the title had me thinking this was a whole other subject, that someone had finally had enough and was going to shoot their crank pulley... I was open to the idea, having had the same idea myself at different times with different repairs +1 for smart rap of the hammer on a breaker bar, the instantaneous impact can break things loose with a minimum of fuss, if you have a well fitting socket and can get the right angle on the bar LOL! I got er loose....box end wrench in the torque converter, 1/2 drive breaker bar & socket...what Bear that was! It had never been removed...still had "subaru" belts on it. Thanks to every one!
February 23, 201016 yr "That and I don't like bumping starters and throwing breaker bar's into the neighbor's yard."Now whats not to like about that:lol:, so long as no women or children or SUBARUS were hurt thats a hoot:grin:............G Maybe not such a hoot if your nearest neighbor is over 1/2 mile away No one ever heard of a "cheater" ....like a 3' or 6' pipe slid over the breaker bar? LR 1st or rev gear and go for it If and or when it starts rockin, use the momentum to "snap" it. Glad ya got it tho DOH!!! Torque converter hehehe crap....nm :-\ If all else fails you can thread 1/4" nylon rope into the #1 cylinder on the comp. stroke till it can't turn over. That works as well. Typically I use the "hand impact" method with ratchet and hand-sledge because it requires no battery, no starter..... no car in fact. That and I don't like bumping starters and throwing breaker bar's into the neighbor's yard. I've done it, but it's a pretty unprofessional move IMO. GD I like this method, use it all the time on small engines :cool: Edited March 22, 201016 yr by Qman
February 24, 201016 yr I had to get a crank pulley off of a '06 Legacy Outback the other day at work. Came in because the outer ring had started to seperate from the inner hub of the pulley and had worked its way back into the timing belt cover. I had the radiator with the fans pulled but is an automatic so I did the breaker bar trick but instead of it being just me, I threw on some gloves and had a coworker bump the key while it held the breaker bar against the driver side frame rail. Had the whole job done in about 2 hours including doing complete rear disc brakes.
February 24, 201016 yr Author the subie is now back together, it took so long because I was juggling that and the paid work that came into the shop. every time I got frustrated with the job I would just turn to this thread and read the humerous post about shotguns and crank pulleys!! Thanks Guys...
March 22, 201016 yr Ok. I am changing my mind. I just met the pulley from hell, I guess I have had a charmed life till now. I had read this and used the breaker bar starter trick. I even had a remote starter handy. I had a 1/2" 22mm socket on some funky bar t-bar in a pipe, I watched in amazement as the pulley slowly twisted the t bar 90 degrees and generally mangled the crud out of it... I had to pull the rad, grill and center hood latch support and sneak a 1/2 impact in while pulling the upper bumper trim back and even then it was looking kind of iffy if the impact ratchet was going to pull it off. On an upsurge from the compressor it finally broke lose. Yeah, so, screw the hammer, that only works if they are undertorqued or have been off in the last 20 years.
March 22, 201016 yr Holy cow. I hate it when my breaker bar get mangled... I've always just used the breaker bar with a hammer setup. Sometimes the size of the hammer differs, but I have yet to have a bolt that wouldn't let go. Twitch
March 22, 201016 yr I would just pull the engine out of the car if it gave me that much trouble. IN this case it wasn't an option.
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