June 22, 201015 yr BEHOLD! The mighty (and awesome) Demotorvator! <insert evil cackle here>. Bonus points for those who get the geeky color reference. It started off as a Harbor Freight 2-ton engine hoist. I swapped the manual hydraulic jack for a pneumatic one. Spent a few minutes with the PPG color swatch book. Spent a few more minutes sanding and cleaning. Finally spent a few minutes painting. Took a few hours to get it right. Also, I need to touch up a few spots...but hey...its still awesome.
June 22, 201015 yr Isnt that just a wee bit overkill for an angine that is held in by four bolts and removed with a floor jack
June 22, 201015 yr Isnt that just a wee bit overkill for an angine that is held in by four bolts and removed with a floor jack Look closer at the pics, he's using the hoist to lift the car.
June 22, 201015 yr Look closer at the pics, he's using the hoist to lift the car. heheh love the color, but 6 college students can do that, or four to remove the engine (dont ask how i know)
June 22, 201015 yr I have the air operated cyl also on my HF fold-able crane its killer love the color of it may have to custom paint mine also .... plus it will keep the HF hates away
June 22, 201015 yr How do you like that hoist? I was thinking about picking the same one up soon after I get back from a trip in July
June 23, 201015 yr Author It is a tad rickety. On the other hand, the things I tend to use if for don't even come CLOSE to its rated capacity so, for me, it just doesn't matter. I'm not sure I'd want to use it for something like a brand-new hand-built big-block, but it's awesome for lighter stuff...like volkswagens. I've had that crane for several years now and its a bit beat. You can't see it in the pics, but I had to do some repair work on it. I laminated some .25 inch plate to the center cross beam. The manual cylinder crapped out about 2 years ago. At the time it was about $20 for the manual cylinder or $40-something for the air cylinder. So I upgraded to the air cylinder. It is really just a secondary air-operated hydraulic pump on the same cylinder. It can still be operated manually. Makes one-man engine-ectomies a breeze. I will NOT go back to a pure manual cylinder again.
June 23, 201015 yr hey, we have that same crane - still in HF red tho - like the custom paint job! ours sits in a corner collecting dust more than it gets used, but still nice to have it - ya just never know... it may be getting a workout soon - need to pull my motor for a reseal - got some SERIOUS oil leaks. we did use it to turn an 1100cc motorcycle up-side-down once for some tranny work LOL that poor bike, it looked so pathetic laying on it's back...
June 23, 201015 yr haha yeah I need to pull my motor too a little nervous since it would be my first time.
June 23, 201015 yr Author The HF hoists are just fine for light work of this type. Also, the penumatic cylinder is just the thing to make one-man engine removal easy. It lets you run the engine up slowly so that you can guide it. Then, once clear, you can simply hold the control lever down and it goes up much faster than you could do it by hand. Well worth the price of entry. $180 for the crane. I can't find it now, but I seem to recall paying about $60 or so for the pneumatic cylinder. So $240 + tax. Not bad at all.
June 23, 201015 yr ENGINE HOIST: Handy tool for testing the the tensile strength of ground straps and clutch lines which you forgot to disconnect. As for the color is that grave digger green? or goosebumps green?
June 24, 201015 yr Author Its Fluorescent Green and Atomic Purple. It may remind the geekier amongst us of this.
June 24, 201015 yr The HF hoists are just fine for light work of this type. Also, the penumatic cylinder is just the thing to make one-man engine removal easy. It lets you run the engine up slowly so that you can guide it. Then, once clear, you can simply hold the control lever down and it goes up much faster than you could do it by hand. Well worth the price of entry. $180 for the crane. I can't find it now, but I seem to recall paying about $60 or so for the pneumatic cylinder. So $240 + tax. Not bad at all. i had the whole sub frame ( motor and trans) out of one of my ford SHO atx cars never had a problem lifting with it jeff
June 25, 201015 yr Never occurred to me to use air for this application . I have a homemade hoist i picked up at a yard sale CHEAP , needs a new cylinder - i think i'm going with air - thanks for the inspiration and idea . love this site , subaru people are very cool
July 1, 201015 yr Its Fluorescent Green and Atomic Purple. It may remind the geekier amongst us of this. actually it reminded me of this: http://miotd.com/images/20080224.jpg
July 2, 201015 yr haha yeah I need to pull my motor too a little nervous since it would be my first time. yup, gonna be my first time pulling a Suby engine (pulled a 460 out of an old Lincoln once - did NOT reinstall however) so it is gonna be a definite learning experience!
July 2, 201015 yr yup, gonna be my first time pulling a Suby engine (pulled a 460 out of an old Lincoln once - did NOT reinstall however) so it is gonna be a definite learning experience! I just gotta buy a clutch kit and a few other things and I should be ready to go Going to make sure I label everything and take pictures lol
July 4, 201015 yr haha yeah I need to pull my motor too a little nervous since it would be my first time. Everyone is nervous on their first time
July 5, 201015 yr its true.i was pretty nervous.but after the umpteenth time it got way easier......cheers, brian
July 7, 201015 yr Author I think my first engine pull, I had the engine out in 2-3 hours. But that was an EA81 in an 83 wagon. That's an easy one.
July 7, 201015 yr actually pulling the motor isnt my worry so much as keeping the torque converter in the proper position during the pull! I did find a pretty decent writeup about it, but of course, i am still kind of nervous about the whole thing... a quick Q - is the separator plate on the '90 EJ22 metal or plastic?? am fairly sure i have a pretty serious leak there judging by the oily residue on the outside of trans/engine mating surfaces in that general area...
July 8, 201015 yr When you get the flex plate to converter bolts loose pry the converter towards the transmission with a screw driver or pry bar. It will slide back a good 1/4" - 3/8" away from the flex plate and the pilot in the center should separate so the converter stays right where you leave it. Be sure to put a jack under the trans to hold it up at a slight angle. This will make re joining the two easier when you put it back in, and will help prevent the TC from sliding forward. You can also bolt an angled box end wrench to the bellhousing with the opposite end somewhere near the center of the TC to hold it.
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