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Long time ago (as you can see the Background Story ~► Here in a Short thread), I wanted to do a Li'l Front Lift of 2" to level the front of my "BumbleBeast" because with my Suspension Mods (Which can be seen ~► Here) it gained two inches of lift in the Rear...

 

Back then I Couldn't buy the 2" Lifting kit because Paypal Didn't Had Honduras in their List (Four Years Ago) But Now, that story is about tho Change...

 

I Really Need to Lift Two inches (2") the Front to Level my "BumbleBeast", but Without Loosing the Safety and proper Camber / Caster, also I Want to Keep the Axles' angle the more Straight Possible, So, I Believe that a Pair of 2" Blocks at 15º for the Front Struts, plus Dropping the Engine Crossmember 1" will do that, isn't it?

I am Kindly Asking your Advice, Because I Really Need to do a 2" Front Lift but as Cheaper and Easier as it could be, without Sacrificing the Subie's Safety + Alignment.

Please, Help me... Any Advice will be very Welcome! :)

 

Kind Regards.

► Edited to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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  • Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    Here you can see both Steering Shafts together:    

  • Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    Something pretty interesting happened to my "BumbleBeast" after I returned the Geometry of the front to closer to stock specs as possible: the Steering Wheel became Way Softer than ever, and the car f

  • Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    ...and this is How it Looks installed, in my BumbleBeast's Dirty engine Bay:    

So, I Believe that a Pair of 2" Blocks at 15º for the Front Struts, plus Dropping the Engine Crossmember 1" will do that, isn't it?

 

cheapest and darn reliable solution.:)

Yes, you have the idea. If you don't want to make this stuff your self, PM Scott In Bellingham (USMB name) if he can send you just the front strut spacers and crossmember spacer.

 

You can also visit SJRLift.com for more info about his kits.

 

Cheers,

-Tom

  • Author

Thank you for your Kind Answers.

I Already wrote to Scott, he is so Kind and did offer me just the Needed parts for a good price.

 

But I Still Need to see some Writeup or Explanation for the Procedure to Drop the Engine's Crossmember and lenghten the steering shaft, (With Pics, if Possible) because I never have done that Job before and I am Little Afraid to Damage Something; Safety is my Nº 1 Priority: I Transport my Li'l Baby Daughter in this Crazy Honduran Streets with that Wagon.

So, if Anybody can Help me to Explain that Procedures or point me to a Write up
(I Searched and Didn't find anything exactly related) I will be more than Thankful.

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

For Easiness... (and Cheapness) ...I'm Thinking in maybe use only Single 1" Blocks to lift the Front, but I'm not Sure how much Axle Stress could that Bring to the C.V. Joints and how much the Alingment could be Affected...

Any Ideas?

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

I have put a ton of 2"lifts on with not dropping the crossmember at all, one inch blocks would be fine, no problems at all, the only problem is getting them in there, the bolt and the stud will want to hit each other I think...................... If you do a 2" cut them at 17 degs it makes it even better for dirving on the road, your tires will sit a bit flatter to the road...

 

Jeff

  • 5 months later...
  • Author

Is there any Writeup with Photos about the Engine's Crossmemer Dropage and Steerin' Shaft lenghten procedures?

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

  • Author

I Really Need that 2" Lift Kit (Just for the Front) pretty Soon...

Edit: Also I Can buy an Used one if it's in Good Shape and has all the involved Hardware.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

  • 1 month later...

did you end up going with the 2" square tube blocks? they are REALLY cheap to make... my lift cost me only 20$ for bolts!

 

and i have gotten airborne in mine and 4 wheel mine pretty regularly, and the tubes have yet to collapse or bend or anything.... its 1/4" thick tubing, which is twice as thick as any one piece of structural unibody metal.. its even thicker than the metal it mounts to on the strut tower.

 

 

if you daily drive the car, drop the crossmember down an inch so you dont have to replace axles that much. you can use 1" square channel to drop it. ive heard you dont always have to lengthen the steering shaft, just reach down there and loosen the bolt that holds it on so that it can slide a bit and let the crossmember drop down a bit.

 

apparently some steering joints arent as long as others (i think the loyale's have the long one, older ones might be shorter.)

 

if you want to lenthen it, hack it in half in the middle of the two u-joints and weld a 1" piece of pipe in place. i know you might live in honduras, but there has to be someone with a welder nearby... or use a spare steering u-joint.

 

its not hard at all and can be accomplished with a drill, a few drill bits, a framing square and a circular saw with metal blade (compound miter saw is preferred)

 

like one eye (i think it was him) said, the only people who have a problem with this lift are the ones who havent done it. i wouldn't hesitate to transport family, friends, or myself in my loyale with a 2" tube lift.

Edited by maozebong

i know you might live in honduras, but there has to be someone with a welder nearby...

 

Give the guy some credit lol. Have you seen his car?

11103_1304_subarudo-wallpaper-v3.jpg

yes i have seen it, and read most of his highly detailed writeups.

 

in fact, his ingenuity with his cars is pretty amazing. i was mostly just suggesting that he should lift it, and it doesnt take but maybe 2 hours to lengthen a steering shaft that will never break... and that its almost as easy as cutting the tube blocks.

  • Author
Give the guy some credit lol. Have you seen his car?

Loyale27Turbo2.jpg

 

I am Glad that you Liked one of my Wagons, The "Weekend Warrior", but Sadly that one isn't in good Shape for Now, as I Explained here:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117604

 

So Now I Need the Front 2" Lift for my "Everyday Warrior", which Was the White Wagon that could be Seen on my Public Profile's Photos (Just Click on my Avatar) Which I Lifted the Rear Using my Suspension Mods, as I Explained Here:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110546

 

Please, take your Time to Review Those threads, as long as you can; so you will Fully understand the Situation.

  • Author
did you end up going with the 2" square tube blocks? they are REALLY cheap to make...

 

Nope, Let me Explain:

 

Since the Damage that had my "Weekend Warrior" Subie, I Started to Work to improve my "Everyday Warrior" Subie and I Took some parts from that one.

 

Since I Live Far Away home, I Don't have some of the Required Tools to do certain Jobs, so I Ask some Friends who have a Semi-Professional Car Repair Shop, to Use their Tools and Hardware, and sometimes they Help me to Successfully Finish the Repairs / Jobs \ Projects I Make.

 

Also I've been Working on Non-Subaru Projects... Recently I Finished to Swap a Complete Toyota 22R Engine + Drivetrain on a Chevrolet Blazer, which was a Gas Hungry V6 Automatic Nightmare:

 

 

IMG1993A.jpg

 

 

But I Post those on Other Forums; in example, Also I did an Engine Swap on my Wife's 2000 Kia Sephia, which Now Runs with a 2003 Kia Spectra Engine and I Used the Original Sephia's intake & Exhaust Manyfolds to use the same EFi Stuff & Computer, etc... even when a Kia Technician Told me that it was impossible to Do:

 

 

KiaEngineSwap.jpg

 

 

You can Read further here: http://www.kia-forums.com/2g-1998-2001-sephia/66863-2000-kia-sephia-engine-replacement-info.html

 

 

(Here in my Country to do Weird Swaps is "Normal" and very Common, people trend to do things that they believe will improve the Reliability of their Cars.

 

As this Nice Rear Wheel Drive Subaru Loyale Sedan, with a Toyota's engine and Solid axle RWD + Leaf Springs:

 

HPIM0087.jpg

Nice!)

 

 

 

 

 

So Yes... I Could Fabricate the Tubes to do my Own Front Lift Suspension but I Have Two Problems:

  1. Limited access to Tools / Hardware.
  2. No Time to do the Needed Tests, and to Assemble / Disassemble many times untill Success.

So the Solution for me was to Find the Way to Send the Total Amount for a 2" Lift Kit for the Front of my Wagon to a Professional, So I only Need to install it Once.

 

I Purchased the Front 2" Lift Kit to a Great Friend which is USMB Member too, he will send it to me and it will include the Needed Hardware to Drop the Engine's Crossmember 1", so the Axles will remain close to their "Natural Angle".

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
Misspelling

now it makes more sense. i never caught the part about limited access to tools, and etc.

 

good luck with your lifting and have fun!

You continue to amaze and inspire me! The Chevy with a 22r in it is just to cool. Here in the states that conversion is just the other way around. Just trick. Can we help you with parts for the weekend warrior yet. I have a upulit close that's really inexpensive and would be glad to help you out. Glad to see you got your car safe for your family. When we take the steer horns off the daughters car would you like them?

  • Author

Thank you, I Really appreciate your Nice Comment.

The Plan with my 2.7 Wagon is to Swap there a 2.5 from a Forester, or to do the Usual EJ22 Swap, as Soon as I can, for now the Lack of Enough money Stops me to do that, also I've expend my Money in my Everyday Warrior, my Weberized EA82. Once I Finish, I'll be Ready to take Care of my Weekend Warrior.

I'm not Sure What are those Steer Horns ... :confused: ... Could you explain, please? ... I Believe I'm Lost in Translation :)

Kind Regards.

I'm sorry. These horns! You seemed to admire them.

 

IMG_0098.jpg

 

 

 

Thank you, I Really appreciate your Nice Comment.

The Plan with my 2.7 Wagon is to Swap there a 2.5 from a Forester, or to do the Usual EJ22 Swap, as Soon as I can, for now the Lack of Enough money Stops me to do that, also I've expend my Money in my Everyday Warrior, my Weberized EA82. Once I Finish, I'll be Ready to take Care of my Weekend Warrior.

I'm not Sure What are those Steer Horns ... :confused: ... Could you explain, please? ... I Believe I'm Lost in Translation :)

Kind Regards.

  • Author

Yes, I Remember Now... and You're Right!

I Like them, but I Think those will see Best at the Hood's end of my 69 Mercury Comet Coupe...

But Shipping Costs are expensive...

Thank you anyway! :)

Kind Regards.

  • 5 weeks later...
  • Author

bananadance.gif

 

 

My Brand New 2" Lift Kit has Arrived to Honduras, I've Just received it Today!

 

LiftingKit1.jpg?t=1318115338

 

CheerLeaderBanana.gif

 

LiftingKit3.jpg?t=1318115338

 

 

BananaRock.gif

 

 

LiftingKit4.jpg?t=1318115338

 

 

FlipDownnana.gif

  • Author

Many thanks to my friend Scott in Bellingham, for sending me the kit, you are very kind.

 

Greetings and Blessings :burnout:

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Prior to install the Lift Kit, I had to make it the more Rust Proof I Could; so First I inmersed the parts on phosphoric acid for some days, it will Remove any rust those parts might Have and leave them with a Black Metal Colour.

 

... Phosphoric acid, when applied directly to rusted iron, will convert the iron oxide into black ferric phosphate...

As could be Read here: http://home.getridofthings.com/get-rid-of-rust.htm

 

 

 

This Picture Shows somehow, the Moment after removing the Parts from that Acid Bath:

 

 

IMG4009A.jpg

 

(Sorry for my Cheap

Cellphone camera pic)

  • Author

Then the Parts received an Epoxi anti-Rust Treatment that consist on Two Layers, one Light Grey colour...

HPIM9549.jpg

  • Author

Then Sand-Paper and the other one, in Brick Red Colour.

 

Here you can see How the Parts Looked Like after the Two Layers epoxi Treatment and More Sand-Paper:

 

 

HPIM9552.jpg

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