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92_rugby_subie

Wheels: Bad to sand blast?

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So I have been looking for offers to paint my wheels super cheap, but done right

 

Sandblast

Primer

Paint

Clearcoat

 

etc.

 

I got a quote of $30 for all of this per wheel, and told him Id have to wait because I have no money currently, but he said that it would be cheaper if I didnt sandblast the wheels, and it would be better because in his 12 years of powdercoating, he has seen wheels just warp from sandblasting...

 

 

 

What am I missing? Isnt sand blasting just high pressured sand? No water included...? So why will it warp the wheels... or is this just unheard of?

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Dude.... Just spend $30 total and buy some HD scotchbrite, sandpaper, and 4 cans of gloss black krylon.... A nice finish is all about the prep work....

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The hard part is that I spent about 8-10 hours per wheel on the wagon wheels off my 84 GL wagon awhile ago, sanding them and washing them and drying them, then primering and finally painted them, and my garage got too cold and the paint cracked. So I was looking at just paying someone later on to get them done where they might warranty their work so I dont have to worry too much.

 

Id have it done now if it werent for :banghead: stupid :banghead: tickets :banghead: from :banghead: that :banghead: Mitsubishi:banghead: I :banghead: wrecked :banghead::banghead::banghead:

 

Mitsubishis Suck but we all know this

 

Subaru -->:horse: <---Mitsubishi

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Yup.....sand blasting can cause warpage if not done properly. I've seen it happen more than once. Even done carefully some wheels will warp. I've seen exhaust manifolds warp, too.

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The only way they can warp is if you're using a large scale pressurized system at +300psi. Even then, you'd have to be fairly incompetent and maintain pressure on one spot way longer than necessary to remove the paint/rust. A siphon feed system can't do this as it only runs 100-120psi. I've been blasting in my cabinet for around 12 years now and never warped anything and I've done a lot of aluminum as well. If someone tells you the piece may warp, it's because they are about volume and not paying attention to quality. Not meaning to insult anyone, but just like anything else, there's a right way and a wrong way to sandblast.

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You aren't going to warp wheels in a "normal" blast cabinet. Not going to happen. If you have some kind of super-sized industrial setup that can put out MASSIVE amounts of sand and air (you would need at least a 50 HP rotary screw compressor I would say - probably larger) then that's just not going to happen. I have personally blasted wheels in $15,000 cabinets with glass bead.... no issues.

 

Very thin aluminium can warp in a smaller blast cabinet if you aren't careful - but I'm talking sheet metal here. Definitely not a wheel.

 

GD

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For what it's worth, I used to work for Enkei where we made aluminum wheels. If the wheels had a paint or casting defect they would send them to the rework where they were shot blasted, then sent back through the paint processes. Can't say we had any warp from that. These were aluminum not steel wheels.

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I know a few people who are happy with Les Schwab's Powder coating service.

 

Seems the price is right, too. $25-30 a wheel. That's for the media blast and powder coat. The place I have taken my wheels in the past (independent shop) charges $20 a wheel, just to blast. Another $30 for the plastic.

 

The only draw back to Schawb's service that I know, is the turn around time. About a week. Apparently the wheels are sent out to Prineville.

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My only issue with Les Schwab is that I called to ask how much to switch my wheels over ( I have a different set of tires ) and they quoted me 118...

 

I think thats a bit ridiculous for switching tires... and they wont let me keep my original tires...

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They have always been that way about that particular service. The old man himself considered not even offering that service for awhile. But, decided in the end to just charge alot for it. Something about mounting up competitors tires really irked him. I read all that in a Oregonian interview years ago.

 

Still, they're powder coat service might be worth looking at.

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Yea I will call them tomorrow and see what can be done.

 

Im hoping to find a set of used 205-40-15s to put on them, at least for awhile, but I keep seeing 205-50(and up)-15 and I dont want rubbing issues lol

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I highly doubt you'll rub with 205/50/15's, I'm running 205/55/16's and my car is lowered quite a bit. Unless I'm at full lock it doesn't rub, and only barely then. I think it'll be easier and cheaper to find the 50 series tires over the 40's.... My $0.02....

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... I was thinking I should remove the stickers and the old paint first...

 

There's another Way to Remove the Old Paint + all that Stuff: To use a Chemical Paint Remover... I Did it on my Whole Subie Wagon before Painting it Yellow.

 

See in Example: http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/paintremove.aspx

 

...I keep seeing 205-50 (and up) -15 and I dont want rubbing issues lol

 

...Just 60s seem sooo big.

 

No Problem with 60's... (As long as your Rims have the Proper Close-to-the-factory Offset) ...I Run my Weberized EA82 Wagon with 205/60 R15 Tires without Rubbin' issues.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
Post the Proper Link

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Dont the EA82 wagons sit higher though?

...

 

As Far as I Know, the Difference on Higher or Lower Suspension depends on if the Car is 2WD or 4WD, because 2WD models' Struts got the Spring coil's Base on the Shock absorber, Welded two inches Below than the 4WD Shocks, both being the Same Size.

 

Kind Regards.

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