May 9, 201114 yr Feather it down with some sand paper what you can. and then re- spray with a blend pattern over where the tape was, wet sand again. If you clearcoat, you can blend that in as well, then polish
May 9, 201114 yr Author Fox, That is what I did, I wet sanded with 1500 grit instead of a scotch-brite, it faded the paint line pretty good as I ain't no pro, I then blended it with more paint. Rear 1/4
May 9, 201114 yr Author I have now removed the rubber seal which clips to the top of the firewall without ripping it or breaking the clips. I have also removed the two plastic air vents directly under the windsheild. Turns out there was no rust forming in the seams as I thought there might have. I applied some rust converter inside the well/seals and will also apply POR-15 to seal it and prevent rust.
May 10, 201114 yr Looking sharp dude. Bravo on all the hard work. It isnt easy to keep such attention to detail on a car.
May 10, 201114 yr Author Looking sharp dude. Bravo on all the hard work. It isnt easy to keep such attention to detail on a car. Thanks, I am going to need a new RX grille soon, I messed up the paint on this one and theres no way to sand it down and fix it.
May 10, 201114 yr wow, Looks great. I am getting all sorts of ideas for what to do with my 86 hatch to fix its few minor rust issues. I need to work on them before I move back to Omaha. Letting a PNW car rust out in the midwest would just be sinful.
May 10, 201114 yr Thanks, I am going to need a new RX grille soon, I messed up the paint on this one and theres no way to sand it down and fix it. Dremel?
May 11, 201114 yr Author Finished painting the rocker and rear door jam, next up will be fixing everything on the driver side.
May 11, 201114 yr How far are your cans of paint going? i already burned up one, and most of the 2nd on the engine bay. How many coats are you doing?
May 11, 201114 yr Author How far are your cans of paint going? i already burned up one, and most of the 2nd on the engine bay. How many coats are you doing? I have just used up one can so far, and thats painting lower part of door, Rocker, rear panel and the engine bay. I have found that this Clear is CRAP, I am going to buy NASON clear, which I can get at my other Autobody place, it works so much better as I have used it in the past. I think I will have to sand down the door and rear panel and re-shoot them with the new clear. F*cking bullSh*t.
May 11, 201114 yr try some meduim cut polishing compound and see what that does. That cleaned up the dusty look under my hood.
May 11, 201114 yr Author try some meduim cut polishing compound and see what that does. That cleaned up the dusty look under my hood. I have tried Polishing and Rubbing compounds, it cleans it up some, but its not shiney like the rest. I have also waxed it with no results. Figure if I sand it with 2000 grit and then re-clear it, that should work.
May 12, 201114 yr Considering I have stuck 5 years of time and sweat into this car, I ain't just gonna get a rust free body to start over with. That would be defeating the purpose of taking care of my car. Plus the hurt caused by parting with your much loved subi! I had the option to swap to a much better body'd subi but stuck with Ruby Scoo. I know the day is coming that I will have to move on for what ever reason, but I know that it was wrong at the time! Good job tom, but one thing. Rear Disc Swap man, should be the very next thing you do. Second that! Drum works just fine, plus they are new drums and have new hardware. Still won't be up there with the discs! Looking sharp dude. Bravo on all the hard work. It isnt easy to keep such attention to detail on a car. Agreed. I feel like I should be spraying the underside of Ruby Scoo and touching up the tiny bits of surface rust she's got. If you saw her you'd have it done in no time looking at the efforts you've gone to on this one! Cheers Bennie
May 14, 201114 yr Author Since I've been spraying my body work, I had gotten fumes on most of the body just from the wind carring it around. I gave it some Clay Bar action, and wow, it does really work, it take it right off and makes it smooth as glass.
May 14, 201114 yr Since I've been spraying my body work, I had gotten fumes on most of the body just from the wind carring it around. I gave it some Clay Bar action, and wow, it does really work, it take it right off and makes it smooth as glass. I used clay bar on my legacy, it worked amazing!
May 17, 201114 yr Looking sharp dude. Bravo on all the hard work. It isnt easy to keep such attention to detail on a car. I agree! Unbelieveable!!!! It really does take a "special" kind of person !
May 18, 201114 yr Author More Stainless nuts and Bolts. Little here, little there till most of them are changed. SPT Battery Hold-Down with Chrome Locknuts. This is the best Metal cleaner I have ever used.
May 18, 201114 yr That's the best setup for working on car I've seen yet! Makes me wish I had another wagon to backup to my Loyale to use as a work bench and boombox instead of running around to the back of the car every time I need a different tool...
May 18, 201114 yr Author What are you using to make the hoses so shiny? Haha, I'm gonna get flamed for this but. I have a can of Rustolium clear which I was spraying around the engine bay of the Legacy, so I did the hoses to, hasn't flaked off yet. I use Mothers Back to Black on the Loyale, thats the way to go if you car about your car. Its not like armor all at all.
May 18, 201114 yr I am considering painting my mirrors body color like the gl-10's would have, and same for the lower portion of the bumpers. I need to find a type of primer to paint onto the plastic. I hear that an epoxy primer is best to not have fish eyes. Same will go for the rx kit, but gold color
May 18, 201114 yr Author I just hope the epoxy primer will adhere to the plastic and chip off after a few months. You could try acid etching primer, I used that on my Grill and it worked out.
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