that is so great.

i am getting ready to replace my differential AND my valve cover gaskets.

You wouldn't by some chance need to also do a valve adjustment while you were in there, would you?

 

 

Well if you have an 01 Outback or other and you get a bonk at take off or turns this is what to look at. Almost feels like a rear end slip or skipping. I think this is also what may be setting off my VDC light. Once you get going noise is gone and car drives fine.

 

 

I get that THUD on my 97 I have learned to ignore it.

Have to remove the rear subframe to change the rear diff? I don't think I've heard that before.

Here are the 49191 Nolathane inserts I purchased:

 

 

Awesome. Where did you buy your inserts? I have only seen them for $80+

 

By the way, I live very close to you.

Look up Whiteline KDT-903. Same part but about $20 cheaper.

Look up Whiteline KDT-903. Same part but about $20 cheaper.

 

Awesome, the KDT903 kit is waaay cheaper.

Hey guys, i just did this too. Had to trim mine the same.  The bottom of the new insert is kinda bulging out a tiny bit, but i just tightened the bolts and called it good. Thanks for the info above!! The shop was trying to charge me almost $700 for this repair and it took me a whole 15 minutes to complete. 10 or 11 of the 15 was trying to find my sharp razor to trim.  Took it for a test drive and it sure does make a big difference.

I drive a 2001 Outback wagon 3.0 LL Bean  I used Whiteline part number KDT927. Also, did you all tighten your bolts to 50 or 55 ftlbs?

 

I'll add photos when i re learn how to do that.

Edited September 19, 20178 yr by Stoner Dude

Hey guys, does anyone know the size and thread count of those nuts on the bushings?

I went to check the bushings and the nuts were completely missing. Check the photo

Auto parts stores have been useless in figuring out exactly what I am looking for.  

Does anyone have part number they could link to?

btw, do those bushings look good still?

Thank you

Edited October 22, 20187 yr by SubiDuby

M12x1.25 - see if a lug nut fits on them to verify.
if it's smaller than it's an M10 x 1.25

autoparts stores are almost never a good source for bolts and thread sizes.  they can't size or check or find out and probably a low grade nut that'll flake to rusty pieces anyway.

Yep, almost guarantee it's 12x1.25, but might be 10. Bushings look pretty nasty, I'd replace them....but it's not going to hurt anything if you don't, just get a clunk when changing directions occasionally.

I replaced them on my '00 this spring. Drop the diff, the inner sleeve and most of the rubber came with it, I used a chisel to get the rest of the rubber out. Then I used a sawzall to cut through the outer sleeve to relieve some pressure, then an air hammer pushed it out quickly. Cleaned out the hole with a dremel and a flap wheel. Then a little creativity with a chunk of threaded rod and some scrap metal made a little press to get the new ones in. Smooth now. Kind of a shame since I'm going to be putting a rear subframe in this car....

I have a 01 legacy and my rear most diff bushings are shot. I have seen the stock replacement ones and they appear to demand a press fit whereas the aftermarket bushings dont. Of the different aftermarket bushings I think I see solid one piece ones that fit the bolt with no use of a sleeve, they look like they just squeeze in the mount from the rear. Then I see 2 piece ones that I assume necessitate removing the diff entirely and slide in from both sides. I dont see any that are meant for my year, are the mounts different sizes from year to year? I want to install a pair of bushings for my 01 Legacy so can someone tell me which ones I should purchase?

Well I think I figured it out now. I buy the two piece kit and use only the rear most inserts if I dont want to take the diff out. That sounds good to me, I want quick and dirty because I dont plan to keep the car very long. So if I only use the inserts, do I leave the stock rubber alone and just trim the inserts and shove them in? That sounds really easy if that is the case!

Edited October 26, 20187 yr by terencefrontier

I was not able to find any aftermarket bushings that completely replace the old ones for that application. The only ones I could find were "void filler" bushings to stiffen up the factory ones, which I didn't think would be enough in my case as my old bushings were completely torn in half.

another option would be using Window Weld - there's at least one guy on youtube that used it to beef-up his original bushings and it seems to be lasting for him. I read of one other person that has used it. I think it can be messy, and there's some period of time required for it to cure.

 

might be worth looking into

1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

another option would be using Window Weld - there's at least one guy on youtube that used it to beef-up his original bushings and it seems to be lasting for him. I read of one other person that has used it. I think it can be messy, and there's some period of time required for it to cure.

 

might be worth looking into

pages of uses for widow weld 

thanks for the tip

yeah, even cardoc used it on his supercharged outback

 

here's part 1 of a diff-s[ecific repair -

 

I saw that window weld and I do have experience with it. I used it to make a rubber part for a dirt bike exhaust hanger once. Its pretty soft and weak ime so I dont want to use it. I remember it being hard to purchase because it isn't meant to be sold to the general public, its a nasty toxic formula but maybe its not a big deal these days. So those replacement bushings "fill the voids" cool, thats uber easy. I ordered a pair with only the outer inserts and the washers in black for 30 dollars off ebay. My neighbor has 2 subarus and we looked and his bushings are failing also. I will try the bushings and if successful, we will do it to his cars next. I bought  KDT927

I installed the insert bushings today. My original bushings were completely wasted, the centers were torn from the outer rubber entirely. I was not able to tell which side of the new bushing was the top or bottom. So I installed one with the two fingers on top and one with the fingers at the bottom. I did trim them slightly to fit, and greased them liberally. Both went in easy and my diff is now solid as a rock and the thump noise is gone. Awesome fix that took very little time to complete.

I went to do the bushing inserts today and stopped in my tracks when they didn't fit. I know I'm supposed to trim part of the insert but how and where exactly? it seems the two finger parts of the insert are too big to fit in there. Should I take a razor and make the fingers skinnier? Another question would be am I supposed to use the included lubricant to help push these things in the existing bushing? How does the lube work? I'm a Subaru newbie so I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right as not to damage the inserts I just payed for.

Also big thanks to Idosubaru, those nuts are M12x1.25, I picked up a pair at Ace and already I'm feeling a smoother shift when I put in reverse.

Here is a picture of my bushings and a picture of Whiteline inserts I just bought.