methusalah Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Wagon seems to have some electrical issues. Alt gauge jumps up and down with turn signals, blower motor doesn’t seem to work but was working, tach no longer works after the timing belt was done (not by me); thought the alternator was bad so I replaced it with a ‘new’ one from autoz0n3 and nothing has changed and may actually be worse. Autoz0n3 checked the ‘new’ alternator and said it was fine…my daughter really loves the car but I’m at my wits end with the electrical stuff…anyone that could shed some light would be a great help. Between this car, my other daughter’s 02 OBS overheating and my 81 wagon that has it’s own issues, I’m about ready to dump all of my Subarus (all 8 of them!) All the fuses are good...the thing ran great for a year and then...one gremlin after another! Help, please, anyone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Blower motor check the relay under the dash. Tach.....hmmm..... check the yellow wire on the coil - is connected. Voltgauge jumping with the signals is not a big issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Whenever I get a project subaru, I clean up all the ground connections, disconnect and clean / wire brush sensor connections and disconnect and spray electrical contact cleaner onto wire harness connections in the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
methusalah Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Thanks for the advice...I'll look into all of it or have her check it out. I wish I could just buy up all the rust free older subies for sale here in AZ and bring to everyone who'd want one in the states that deal with rust...worst probs here are paint damage from the sun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
methusalah Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 OK - blower motor working again just fine car seems to run fine at idle but the engine is surging/revving up and down a little and when I was driving it back home last night as I came up to stop, I pushed in the clutch and it died...I let the clutch back out and it started up again (of course it was still moving) and it did this several times but didn't always die, a few times the lights dimmed and the engine slowed but then picked back up to idle. My daughter thought it was the act of pushing on the brake pedal that was killing it but I made sure after it happened the first time to just push in the clutch and not brake...HELP??? Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
methusalah Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 And the gas guage isn't working...I pulled the bits out of the tank and they looked pretty spotless, no rust or corrosion - although I didn't test it...any thoughts on that...if it weren't for all of these little issues the car would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Did you look at the grounds? There is a major one going from the negative terminal on the battery to either the engine block or the frame. Mine was loose and I couldn't start my car, couldn't even compression start it. Tightened that sucker up and all the problems went away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 And the gas guage isn't working...I pulled the bits out of the tank and they looked pretty spotless, no rust or corrosion - although I didn't test it...any thoughts on that...if it weren't for all of these little issues the car would be great. The gas guage on my Brat works when it feels like it. I guess its a common problem. I would like to know the fix to this as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 How about a new alternator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 your new autozone alternator is junk. It may test ok at their machine, but the voltage regulator is shot in it, and it is probably charging 19v, and you are about to fry everything. Do not put a Autozone alternator on the car. Go get a used oem one, or borrow one from a buddy on here lives close by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 your new autozone alternator is junk. . Tell me about it, back when I had my GL I went through an autozone alternator every 6 months (glad they had a lifetime replacement) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
methusalah Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 I believe that the alternator maybe junk...no buddies nearby...I still have the old one and one in my 1989 turbo wagon, also from my 87 hatch and 81 wagon...probably won't work though...grounds are tight but I will clean them up and try that...ugh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
methusalah Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 If the alternator is crap - how do I tell them that? They say it's good...tested fine they say...bs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 whoops, somehow missed the part about him trying out a replacement alt. About the Autozone alternators though, I've honestly never had a problem with them. However, I'm sure different seaboards of the states get different results in terms of aftermarket parts from such places, so so may be the case out by you guys with the build quality, but I personally have never had an issue. Axles on the other hand.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 I believe that the alternator maybe junk...no buddies nearby...I still have the old one and one in my 1989 turbo wagon, also from my 87 hatch and 81 wagon...probably won't work though...grounds are tight but I will clean them up and try that...ugh... Grab one from another vehicle and swap it in just to see how it performs. And vice versa for your autozone alt. Throw it in another vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 The gas guage on my Brat works when it feels like it. I guess its a common problem. I would like to know the fix to this as well. Check the connectors on the sending unit for corrosion. You'll find them on the rear center of the tank. Been the issue with mine atleast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Automotive Electricity is 'somehow' my Specialty, so I Kindly suggest you to re-do the "Big Three" wires, because by what you told here, I Believe that the Car needs some Ground reinforcement. About the Big Three: http://forums.carreview.com/showthread.php?t=678 About the Worn Relays, I Kindly suggest you to read the Followin' writeup: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90403 But you'll need to Highlight the Text to become readable. (I explained why here) Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) The pulsing of the voltmeter may be just due to grounding issues or a weak battery. To see if the alternator is ok turn on the headlights and blower and then check the voltage at the battery while the engine is running around 1,500 RPM. You should see between 13.5 and 14.8 volts DC at the battery. The voltage at the alternator output lead should be close to the same also. Check for AC ripple also. There should be less than .1 volt AC across the battery if the alternator is ok. A note about the dash voltmeter. It can read up to a volt lower than the actual battery voltage due to internal wire losses. Edited January 10, 2012 by Cougar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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