I wanted to report my experience with aftermarket axles since there is the occasional controversy regarding the use of non-Subaru axles.

 

I just replaced both front axles with AutoZone Duralast Golds, part number 9330N. They were only about $60 each, which I thought was a reasonable amount to spend on my "ancient" Subaru. These are brand new axles, not remanufactered.

 

Now I am a "hack" at best, but it took me less than 2 hours of real work to get the first side in. Much less on the second set. I disconnected the lower ball joint castle nut and the anti-sway link to get the hub to move enough to extract the axle. Used lots of PB Blaster before hand, as my 1995 Legacy LSi has seen over 162,000 miles of Midwest winters. But in the end, my new big-a breaker bar from Harbor Freight was no match for them, and everything went without too much drama.

 

The only real difficulty I had was getting one of the roll pins to go in all the way. Mushroomed the end trying, then got wise and inserted it from the other side. Piece of cake.

 

I am happy to report that after installation I have experienced no vibrations, and the front end feels much smoother than before. And, the dreaded "click" is gone. (Although, in the process I noticed that my steering rack boots were also torn, so yet another project on the list).

 

BTW, I have two Subaru "cores" if anyone wants them for free. One is pretty trashed with a mangled joint, but the other is OK I think (however, I did not do a close inspection). Given the preference of some to use genuine Subaru axles and reboot, thought it might be useful to offer them if you can use them. I am in Wisconsin.

Edited April 20, 201312 yr by stevetone

I think the problem is in the non subaru remans, I think as long as your getting new axles (you can tell if they don't ask for a core) you won't have the problems like the remans. On the other hand it might take a few try's but the remans arn't really that bad either once you get a good set, my moms legacy has two napa remans on the front and they have never given her any problems and they've been in there a few oil changes.

I've had "new" ones make alot of noise, click clack, and on automatic cars cause vibration when stopped in gear.

 

It's  a crap shoot.

 

"new" isn't nessecarily better.....especially when they are cheap and from China.

^^^^^

What he said. Even the NEW specimens are lacking in grease.clicky ticky tavvy will come soon enough. LOL

I've been curious about those ever since I started at AutoZone about 8 months ago. They look really well made.

 

But only time will tell. Most of the cardone reman ones that I've bought lasted at least a few months before showing signs of failure. But most failed within a year or so.....

I tried those, and thr right side was clicking the very first time i moved the car!

I wanted to report my experience with aftermarket axles since there is the occasional controversy regarding the use of non-Subaru axles.

 

there isn't any controversy, just have to see clearly how it works.  aftermarket axles have a success rate - let's call it 80% to make up a number.  if 80% are good, then 80 out of 100 folks will be happy.  many of those 80 will sell the car or won't have the car long enough to report back or see failures and many of those 80 will never have issues at all. that works for folks wanting to avoid a $250 repair bill.

 

but - for those of us that do a lot of these and have been for years - a %20 failure rate is absolutely awful.  my time is extremely valuable, redoing an axle is not acceptable. i also travel a lot and get many years/miles out of my daily drivers - Maine, Florida, New Orleans, Colorado, Joplin Missouri...many 1,000+ mile trips, a possible failed joint is not an option.

 

aftermarkets are a good fit for some people.  someone doing one axle every 10 years is unlikely to have any problems.  someone doing 10 a year or month....it's silly to have guaranteed failures and extra work.

Edited April 22, 201312 yr by grossgary

interested in shipping the not busticated axle, i'd take it.   have the original boxes the new axles came in to ship it with?

Not for a Subaru but I have had rebuilt axles have the wrong ends on them.. You Could take the brand new Duralast CV's and buy OEM boots and axle grease. pull the axles apart and put the OEM stuff in them for an OEM-like install.

there isn't any controversy, just have to see clearly how it works.  aftermarket axles have a success rate - let's call it 80% to make up a number.  if 80% are good, then 80 out of 100 folks will be happy.  many of those 80 will sell the car or won't have the car long enough to report back or see failures and many of those 80 will never have issues at all. that works for folks wanting to avoid a $250 repair bill.

I've had a 100% failure rate within a year on remanufactured axles. Probably a dozen of them. Many in stock vehicles.

I have grabbed a few cv axles out of the junk yard OEM FOR CHEAP! if there is no play in either joint and the boots are good WHY NOT?

I've had a 100% failure rate within a year on remanufactured axles. Probably a dozen of them. Many in stock vehicles.

 

HA HA!   thanks!  about how i feel. was *very* generous on the made up numbers to appease the anecdotal commentary.  i dislike the aftermarket axle scene but try to be accommodating here. LOL

I have got 3 different half shafts from CVO inc in Ocala Fl.  Two Subarus and one Plymouth Mini van All lasted and never had to replaced in over 5 years.  Prompt UPS delivery etc. I thought price was very fair.  Check out website and appears he does all type including industrial types.    Very good to work with too!!    .. 

I just recently bought a set of the new Duralast for my 07 impreza.  Within 500 miles I had to replace one because a clamp opened a small hole on the boot. What a pain in the neck. I'm also having vibration under accerleration between 2200 and 2800 rpm. I'll post another update if things improve but I'm not happy with them. Who makes the OEM axles for Subaru? I would like to buy some new oem axles without paying an arm and a leg for them. 

My experience with reman, or new aftermarket axles has been pretty good. But I may agree w above post about 80% success rate, as I've heard other stories about failures and vibrations. I spent several years as mechanic for tire store and a couple at Chrylser dealer. One time I had a reman fail on a test drive, on an Integra. No posi so it was stuck. I slapped in another from a different store and it failed within a couple miles too! I couldn't believe the luck that day. Took another day to get one, then it was good. But other than that, all others have worked well. But I don't have that much experience with Subaru and if they're more sensitive to funky axles.

I just recently bought a set of the new Duralast for my 07 impreza.  Within 500 miles I had to replace one because a clamp opened a small hole on the boot. What a pain in the neck. I'm also having vibration under accerleration between 2200 and 2800 rpm. I'll post another update if things improve but I'm not happy with them. Who makes the OEM axles for Subaru? I would like to buy some new oem axles without paying an arm and a leg for them. 

Just an update, these duralast axles are JUNK. They vibrate,click and fail, not necessarily in that order. I tore both of them out of my impreza this weekend installed my rebuilt oem axles. Don't waste your time and money on this crap. In Autozone's favor they did give me a full refund.

I buy new empi (empire) axles from rockauto. Good quality. No refailures yet on about 10 axles

 

I buy new empi (empire) axles from rockauto. Good quality. No refailures yet on about 10 axles

Empi went our of business last year, but they are still being made under USA axles I've still been buying empi old stock axles recently.

I agree though empi or USA industry are great aftermarket axles

Edited November 16, 201411 yr by mikaleda

Still OEM or a place like MWE/rebooting OEM axles yourself is the way to go, these aftermarket axles are hit and miss.

 

There was just a thread and someone stated, that they got a new CV put on buy a mechanic and the clicking was still there. Then the mechanic said its not the axle, that infact it was the differential the guy said the mechanic told him it was going to cost $900 and $3000 if the differential was dead. Just a real world scenario and that person isn't the only one that had happened to.

This is why places like USMB and other subaru sites are so important, I've noticed a lot of mechanics do not understand subaru's. They will simply just replace an axle on a subaru with a bad aftermarket one and tell the customer that the noises they are still hearing isn't from the newly installed axle. When really it is.

My opinion on aftermarket axles is, if you can get a good pair they usually will last you a long time. I know someone who bought ones off ebay still on for almost 2 years. I have NAPA Maxdrives, they work good I have no idea how long they will last though. There's people that have used NAPA's and had good results. Moral of the story is, you can get a good pair of aftermarkets and not have any issues. As above with people saying they had goodluck with EMPI's.

Edited November 16, 201411 yr by TKFlight

I recently picked up a pair of these and so far have only installed the front passenger side and I have a slow speed wobble coming from the axle most noticeable when in 1st and 2nd gear. I also saw that it came with some information regarding vibrations from the axle and lay the cause to a worn transmission mount. Has anyone seen this before and is there any merit to their statement? I have a 2nd axle that I have yet to put in for the driver side since I am thinking about pulling the installed axle out and purchasing OEM remans from subaru or the HERI HD axles to avoid any more problems.

 

 

Edited November 25, 201411 yr by NoOneBetter

makes close to zero sense to me, but what do I know? It may be true, I was trying to make a case for axles not having the inner and outer joints 'clocked' (timed) to each other correctly. And also that the wrong grease was being used on the inner joints.

 

I guess when someone installs a 'problem solver' we'll know. (is that like a padeye wrench or 50 feet of flightline or a skyhook? LOL!)

wow, that sounds highly suspect but i'd be surprised they'd make up something so off and print it?

I recently picked up a pair of these and so far have only installed the front passenger side and I have a slow speed wobble coming from the axle most noticeable when in 1st and 2nd gear. I also saw that it came with some information regarding vibrations from the axle and lay the cause to a worn transmission mount. Has anyone seen this before and is there any merit to their statement? I have a 2nd axle that I have yet to put in for the driver side since I am thinking about pulling the installed axle out and purchasing OEM remans from subaru or the HERI HD axles to avoid any more problems.

 

Update: Decided to upgrade to Group N transmission mount for added performance and also to see if this would fix the wobble feeling. After installing the mount there was still a slight wobble but less than before and mostly in first gear. Seems like the mount helped a little but did not completely alleviate the issue. I also decided to install the driver side axle and did not notice any ill effects from that axle so seems like the issue is isolated to only the passenger side axle. 

Edited November 28, 201411 yr by NoOneBetter

makes close to zero sense to me, but what do I know? It may be true, I was trying to make a case for axles not having the inner and outer joints 'clocked' (timed) to each other correctly. And also that the wrong grease was being used on the inner joints.

 

I guess when someone installs a 'problem solver' we'll know. (is that like a padeye wrench or 50 feet of flightline or a skyhook? LOL!)

 

I suppose it is possible, when the suspension is moving up and down, that the engine is moving side to side. You'd think you could see that.

 

Are CV axles clocked; I never looked? I though it was something about the cage and balls that made it truly CV. As long as one end is CV, the other shouldn't matter.

Edited November 28, 201411 yr by uniberp