Ugh, that is really lame. Do they have any curb rash or something on the outer edge indicating bumping a curb. Dunno how else you could warp and alloy wheel, unless someone had a locked up brake and kept driving, even still, doubt it would warp.

 

Sorry you got burned on the wheels, they would have been pretty cool.

 

As for these wheels, I am going to sell them. The backspacing is only 4" which makes the wheels stick out, which would look fine if they went deeper into the wheel well, but from behind, it just looks dumb. I'll need to find a wheel with 4.75 to 5" backspacing.

Don't sell the wheels - roll the guards so you don't need to run with flares  That would look totally awesome!

Looks good mate!  I still can't get over the amount of work you guys put into rust repairs, I really take my hat off to you all who do it!  Over here a vehicle like that would be scrapped, which is why you don't see many these days

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Bennie

They just kind of curve in so if you look at the rim from the side it looks crooked it makes sort of a dip in. I can show you pictures. As far as those wheels I might be interested in those!

These are just regular 15" trailer wheels, which can be bought online for about $50 per wheel, sometimes less if you buy a set of 4. So it would be cheaper for you to get them that way. I would need at least $100 for the wheels, and probably like $150 to ship them your way lol.

 

Bennie, its not the matter of them sticking out. It just looks funny cause they don't sit under the car deep enough, so it looks like the car is on one of those tow dollies

Pulled the knuckle and control arm out, Need to replace wheel bearings/Seals, and Ball Joint. In the process of removing the control arm, I snapped the head off the bolt which is fused into the bushing. I got the rubber bushing out, but the outer wall/shell of the bushing is stuck in the control arm and is not budging (No surprise with 30yrs of rust holding it in there) I think I tweaked the control arm while failing at removing the bushing, so I will need another one (With a decent bushing)

 

Once I get that, I will de-rust the knuckle and control arm are give it a nice new coat of paint.

 

I also need the wheel stud plate still, and a new axle as all the splines are damaged from the non torqued on axle nut. 

After removing the knuckle and bearings/seals, I have wire wheeled it to clean off any rust and gave it a nice coat of Duplicolor truck bedliner. I will be doing the same with the control arm which TomRhere so graciously has awaiting shipment to me!

 

Thanks Tom!

Just ordered a new EA81 Radiator (433698 MHT) for $113 from O'Reillys, Also ordered a reman Axle (60-7001 MPV) for $67. Also ordered a 14" Slim mount 1700cfm Pusher/Puller fan from Ebay for $23 shipped. 

 

Now I need to get all new stainless bolts so I can reassemble the driverside control arm/hub assembly. Already installed new BCA/National bearings and seals, and a new Masterpro Ball-joint (Was gonna go with MOOG, but wasn't sure what I direction I was going Knuckle and Suspension wise)

 

I still need a genuine Thermostat and a Water pump so everything in the cooling system is refreshed.

 

I want to thank TomRhere for the Control arm and MilesFox for the two EA82 Stud plates. I also want to thank Jamie for dropping off those EA81 Wagon wheels which are now at the tire shop having the worn out bags ripped off so I can clean up the wheels and wrap them in new rubber!

I got the same radiator from Oriely for my DL. the radiator cap was not included and was different from the original. 

It shouldn't have been. They are usually made by Murray. Though Sometimes there are variations in manufactures who outsource there products to another company who manufacture them just so they can slap the same one name on them. Much like how Motorad, Murray and Gates all make thermostats for the same company but Murray is the name on the box. Guess we'll see what I get.

 

Anything is better than the Clapped out EJ radiator thats in there now!

Got new bolts and put the knuckle back together. New Bearings, Seals, Balljoint, Axle, Bolts and de-rusted and repainted with Truckbed liner. The New axle has a 32mm spindle nut opposed to the 36mm.

 

 

 

Back on the ground! But now the cooling system is getting a full refresh!

 

 

This was the radiator I found with the car. Pretty sweet setup, must be a WRC spec radiator

 

New Radiator and cap.

 

 

 

But now, I have a pretty serious issue. One bolt did not come out of the Block for the waterpump. There was no way around it, it broke with no effort. Not I need to try and fix this. By the way, there is now an easy out broke off inside the bolt now as well.

 

What a car.

Oh that sux!

Good luck with the project and thanks for posting your work.  Sweet project.

I have a fantastic idea about redrilling the broken off bolt. I put the old waterpump back on and used a 1/4" drill bit start drilling. The reasoning for using the old waterpump is to use its hole for a reference point to keep the bit centered. Worked like a charm! I did not completely drill it using the 1/4" bit, once I have a notch I then swapped to a smaller bit and made my hole. Now I am just waiting for an M6 Heli-coil kit to get here, so I can then use the correct size bit to finish the hole, then tap it and insert the coil.

 

I will post progress and results after finishing up this little delay.

That is the best way to insure the bit is centered on the broken bolt.

Helicoiled that damaged threaded hole for the Waterpump. Waterpump will now be ready to put in once I get Stainless bolts for it. I also painted it Gloss Black along with the Thermostat cover. The Block has bee flushed out with water to ensure no deposits are lingering in the motor. Tomorrow I should be able to wrap up everything for the cooling system.

 

I also purchased a Coolant overflow bottle for a Mazda 323 which will now be retrofitted into the Coupe as I did with the Skiwagon. Part number for the Coolant overflow bottle is Dorman 603-541

 

I also have a wanted ad in the Classifieds section, in search of a few items and people who aren't bothered by shipping to Wisconsin.

 

Also, I am going to refinish those wagon wheels possibly this weekend. Gonna buy a portable blaster.

I have been told not to use stainless bolts in aluminum. perhaps the nickel content and galvanic corrosion. metric 6x1.00

I generally splooge everything with a combo mix of Anti-Seize and Grease. Seems to do the trick. I will be buying hardware tomorrow!

I picked up a mint set of All-Weather Floor mats from a 2013 Legacy at the junkyard today. $20! I should be getting all the cooling system sorted out by weeks end as I got a new Crank seal today and have everything else needed.

Cooling system is completed and burped. Temp is nice and steady, cooling fan kicks on when needed and is a great runner with the 2bbl Hitachi.

 

Genuine 2-way T-connector for the cooling fan to the original wiring.

 

 

 

New GMB Waterpump and gates belt and hoses.

 

 

Next year the interior will need to be addressed. I cleaned it but it needs more love and is just not up to my standard.

 

 

2013 Floor mats. Front and Rear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like the molded stitch work they put on the EA81s.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still haven't driven this car yet, other than bringing it home. Besides the endless amount of work it needs, the city is repaving our road and access to the driveway is of absence while the Concrete sets. I plan to take it for a ride before winter though!

Also did a Carfax on the coupe a few days ago. Seems this car is true with 75,000mi and Zero crashes (Any which would have been reported anyhow) At least all body panels are original as well as glass.

 

I will post the a scan of the Carfax later on.

Got nicer headlight buckets from Bratman and just picked up two more EA81 Wagon wheels from Bratworst! Looking forward to getting these powder coated and with new rubber on them. Trying to find something in a 185/70/13, might just get a goodyear snows since more all-seasons only come in 175/70s.

185/70-13 http://simpletire.com/prometer-p185-70r13-050p-tires

 

I have the 205/60 13s and like them a lot but mine aren't really all seasons so work ok but not so great in snow and ice.

I did a simple search for them though I sourced mine locally.

Edited October 19, 201411 yr by Mykeys Toy

Can you post a pic of the 205s on yours? I'd like to see this! Thanks for the link.

 

Never mind the nose in the air look..  I put 4wd springs on it and love the ride I just haven't got around to cutting them down to size yet.

Went over to Hy-Tec Coatings today and they will blast and coat the Wagon wheels in white for $100/per wheel. I had the Pugs on Safariwagon done by them years ago and they are quality. Once done I will buy tires!