I'm stuck! I almost have everything apart to get to the wheel bearings, but that stupid tie rod.... I cant get it to drop.

any tricks other than a crow bar and power of will?

A tie rod removal tool,or pickle fork, as they are sometimes called.

Stick it between the tie rod end and the knucke and usa a bfh on it

Edited December 2, 201510 yr by crazyhorse001

You can try removing the tie rod nut, turn it over and screw it back on flush with the stud. Take a 3 or 5 pound sledge and hit it square and solid. If you mangle the threads a bit, you can still take the nut off and clean that up.

A trick I use is to hit the arm that holds the the tie rod end ,on the side where the rod shank goes threw , this will shock the rod end out

If you're not trying to save the tie rod, the fork mentioned above is the easiest way...

If you are. You need some kind of upforce on the tie rod other wise you wont get it out of it's really stuck.

What I do if I need to save the rod is that I take a big pry bar and put it somewhere on the frame or control arm (wherever really) that you can apply force up while you or a friend hits the bottom of the tie rod or the spindle where the tie rod goes in. (Just be careful not to damage it, some are designed where there is an exposed seem there that can break easily)

If its THAT stuck, you're probably gonana mangle the tierod end anyway. You can get a proper removal tool from most parts store loaner tool programs. Its a mini press that will force it out gently.

What I have done:  Penetrating oil.  Turn the nut upside down, or use a spare one with the same thread, etc.

Use a piece of aluminum bar 1/8" to 1/4" thick as a "cushion" and hit it with a hammer.  Wear an insulated glove to hold the aluminum.  Might take a few hits, work up the impact level.

I'm stuck! I almost have everything apart to get to the wheel bearings, but that stupid tie rod.... I cant get it to drop.

 

It won`t come apart because it is a tapered fit.

Puller is best,but,hitting the steering arm w/a really BFH works everytime.Use a big one and hit it hard.

Don`t hit the tie rod end.

Avoid using a pickle fork,if possible.They often rip the boot.

You don't need to pull the tie rod to get the CV axle out.  Don't even try, you will just ruin something else.

 

Instead, pull the pivot bolt at the inside of the arm.  That will allow enough play to swing the hub out and get the CV axle out of the bearings.  And it will all go back together in exactly the same place, no need to get the wheels aligned.

ah crap. I used the pickle fork of course. so leaking fluid from the boot.... is that a simple fix? Or  did I just bunk up my whole project here?

Did you tear the boot? If so tie rod ends arent expensive. Like $15-20, not too hard to install either.

 

Measure from the sleeve to the center of the joint, then install the new ones to that measurement. That will get you a decent driveway alignment, which will let you get it to a shop no problem.

 

Meantime, if you HAVE to drive it, you can band aid the boot for a couple weeks till you can get tie rod ends. Thats if the mechanics of the rod are still tight. I wouldnt do that unless i had no choice tho. broken tie rods are no fun. You become a passenger with a steering wheel *eek*

Rocketdog, on 03 Dec 2015 - 09:58, said:

ah crap. I used the pickle fork of course. so leaking fluid from the boot.... is that a simple fix? Or  did I just bunk up my whole project here?

 

 

You could just ignore it for now.

It takes a long time for the tie rod end to develop play from entrapped dirt.

I have had a ripped tie rod end boot on my truck for years,but,I`m not replacing anything until it actually becomes loose.

cv joint is stuck in the blasted wheel bearings.

+1 subaru tie rods are robust and take a long time to develop style.  actually in 20+ years and owning over 40-50 Subaru's and working on plenty more - I have yet to see a loose outer Subaru tie rod.  they're rather robust.  i only ever replace them due to boots cracking, that's it.  all my 200,000+ mile Subaru's have the original tie rods on them....i think i've replaced one side on my 245,000 outback due to a cracked boot.  i live in a state that requires inspection and i wanted to do it before winter anyway, otherwise I wouldn't have even worried about it.

I have been doing the same job as you the last couple of days....and had a 'mother' of a time with the tie rod UNTIL I read about using the hammer on the steering assembly. VEry robust part of car...hit it hard a few times (with the castle nut off)....and POP!

 

then i had even more trouble with the ball joint...finally remembered I had a puller in my garage somewhere, found it....and found a way to squeeze it in from behind the hub area and locked the screw into place. I needed a breaker bar with an extension to turn that screw until it finally popped. I really thought I was going to break something it was such a stress on the ball joint. ....BUT it popped with a BANG! ....noise was so loud it brought the neighbour out  to see what was going on ???!!!!

 

Somehow I don't think a hammer would have done the job....and I certainly could NOT have swung it in the space I had.

thanks to all those persons who have been helping me out.

RAE

note to Bumble beast...got image shack photo onto this reply...but message came up that I was ""not allowed to use  this file extension in this community"" whatever that means exactly.

I'm not sure why people even use pickle forks first when the puller designed for removing tie-rod ends are usually less money ~$6-$10 or about the same and do not destroy the boot.  That's what I do...buy the cheap puller. 

 

I have also never popped the tre to change a wheel bearing.  Robm (#10) mentions the control arm pivot bolt, which is the preferred method.

When I pulled the axle out of the steering knuckle, the inner wheel bearing came with it. Said wheel bearing has fused with the axle(not literally, I'm sure). Is this a situation to be taken in a fragile manner of prying? Any advice before I become creative??

Pull the shaft out completely & use a puller or press.

Got access to heat? ie blow torch. Heat up the bearing race first can help a bit.

 

Expect similar kind of forces to getting the tie rod off...

I was trying to avoid pulling the axle out completely.......crap

Well if you have the knuckle out, the axle is a piece of cake. Just take the pin off and pull. I would replace your wheel bearings too if you're that far into it. Why not? They're cheap

...Then push in and replace pin? That simple? If that's the case, then I just have to rent a puller.

Replacing the wheel bearings was the plan in the beginning.