*edit* didn't mean to doublepost

Ignition control module possibly? Seems like the only piece that controls spark that I haven't replaced so far.

Have you checked the main engine to chassis harness connections at the back of the engine?

 

GD

I can look tomorrow, is it near the intake manifold on the back of the engine or..?

On those cars the connections are near the battery IIRC. Should be three major harness plugs by the battery - between it and the engine/intake.

 

GD

All of the wires are fine down by the battery. Tracked them to where they connect and see no issue

See this: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f72/t202955-problem-setting-base-timing.html

specifically this: - did you use the LINE (good) on the back or ARROW (bad) on the front?

I went by the lines not the arrows

Going to use a buddy's ecm from his ej22t to rule that out

Nobody can Tell Me where this ground is supposed to go? I've been looking at engine bay pics for over an hour and can't find where it's supposed to lead

Closest thing I can find. Sure can't find where this ground goes

I'll check on my 98 tomorrow to see if it's the same.

 

Not an exact science though. Run that ground on a bolt to the intake manifold and if that's the culprit you will notice a difference.

Heh, I did a manual swap on a buddies 96 impress. I put that ground wire that your talking about on a paint covered hole (so not a good ground if at all) and the car would not crank. And if it did crank it wouldn't even start.

I don't remember where it went sorry.

But yeah. I had to get a different guy to help me realize all my issues was traced to that bad ground.

It just cranks and cranks but not turning over. Day 5 of troubleshooting. Very irritating

my son has a 91 turbo ss at school, I'll see if he can shoot me a pic of that area for the ground. 

The ground goes to one of the transmission case bolts.

 

GD

So far have replaced, knock sensor, timing belt, crank positioning sensor, ecm, ignition control module, plugs, wires, throttle positioning sensor, injectors 3&4 and still can't get spark. Very upsetting.

Spark only relies on the cam and crank sensors, ECU, ignitor module, and coil pack, plugs, and wires.

 

You need to stop troubleshooting with Visa. Check all your power supplies and grounds to the above listed components.

 

GD

The only bad ground I could find was that one and I attached it to a bolt on the tranny case. I also replaced the coil pack.

I've been chasing wires all day looking for something broken or disconnected to no avail. I'm about ready to get rid of this thing.

How are you testing for spark? It's a "waste spark" system, so you have to have all the other sparkplug wires connected and either grounded or attached to the plugs to complete the circuit.

 

I'd take a closer look at the main plugs going to the engine next to the battery. Unplug them and make sure none of the pins have backed out or any of the wires broke right at the connector. When you shockloaded the drive train, the engine is going to torque to the passenger side and upwards in reaction to trying to spin the driveshaft and axles. So stuff on the drivers front is most likely to get yanked.

 

The main other "ran poorly then died" usual suspect is the MAF sensor, easy enough to just unplug it and try cranking to see if it will start.

 

Think you kicked anything under the dash when you were dumping the clutch?

 

The thing to think about when doing a clutch dump on an AWD car is since the power is sent to all wheels it's much harder to break a tire free and burn rubber like a 2wd car would. Instead it's much more likely for the tires to stay hooked and for something else in the drivetrain to break, like the gears in the transmission. If you want to "drift", learn to set the car up for a powerslide by switching the momentum on the tail of the car right as you hit it with power. Look up the "scandinavian flick" for the technique. Just don't put the car sideways into a ditch and roll it while you're learning!

Thats why I did it in gravel and dirt. Still a bad idea nonetheless, I'll look again at the main plugs near the battery in the morning. I got an offer for a 2001 suburban with 165k because my buddy is a subaru fanatic so that's something to look into. Running and driving truck for a non running bru. The subie is just awesome though

You need to check for voltage and ground WITH A METER and a schematic at the components I listed. Looking for broken wires isn't going to yield results.

 

GD