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FerGloyale

03 outback rear suspension on EA81 - T-bone 2.0

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So I had these pics posted in the "longtravel outbacks" thread.  but I thought that since this is really an EA81 build, I would start my own thread.

This is T-bone 37698309625_44d32c09ce_b.jpgT-bone hop by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

So here is the old EA 81 rear setup.  Tired torsions and extra plateing and liftblocks, along with teh already low hanging EA81 diff, make the rump roast of this guy the biggest problem.  Breakin axles and stubs....can't find any more good axles, so it's time to go. 36634850834_a5a9132c0d_k.jpgIMG_2594 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

I had thought about using an early Leggy or Forester setup.......but that would require full on strut mounts in teh back...which woud be lots of fab that there isn't room for.

So I'm using the entire rear setup from an 03 Outback.   Fitted with a Welded spider, 3.9 internal stub diff.  Working on finding a VLSD for longer term road trip use.  But for wheeling trips it's gotta be linclon locked for sure.

39818997223_1fcf3eaa16_k.jpgIMG_3451 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

I modified this subframe to have equal length lower arms....hopefully better travel range possible once I get the right shock setup.  For now it will use stock 03 outback shocks.

31842675787_5b136a2c22_k.jpgIMG_3455 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

45856846365_f057209e2b_k.jpgIMG_3445 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

46046773814_7f54993314_k.jpgIMG_3442 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

31842654667_7fbfd0a831_k.jpgIMG_3461 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

32958413328_dd2fbe88a7_k.jpgIMG_3473 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Here's the projected "full stuffed"  point.

46128790564_86f454546a_k.jpgIMG_3477 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Here's the forward mounting of the subframe.  Built mounting off of the old EA81 6" lift block (there is an EA81 torsion tube section between the body and the blocks)

32992070618_0602a02842_k.jpgIMG_3486 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

39902629453_1a45be0d14_k.jpgIMG_3487 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Sitting near ride height with wheels on. 

39902622393_629fe4f0a1_k.jpgIMG_3489 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

And here is resting on it's own shocks.  Literally it's just sitting on them....haven't actually made the shock mounts yet.  Also need to finalize the Front trailing arm mounts and the sliders for them that will tie into the front/center subframe I have built.

32992061968_3b7785db97_k.jpgIMG_3491 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

 

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nice . did you put those rear shocks on angle for purpose ? i was when i put spacers on my shocks and i didint put any spacer on arm my shock is allways on agle to one side because that spacer is straight and i thought it would be better spacer that goes on angle maybe .. but what happens when wheel goes fully  up ? you checked that ? 

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2 hours ago, scalman said:

nice . did you put those rear shocks on angle for purpose ? i was when i put spacers on my shocks and i didint put any spacer on arm my shock is allways on agle to one side because that spacer is straight and i thought it would be better spacer that goes on angle maybe .. but what happens when wheel goes fully  up ? you checked that ? 

Just kinda where it worked out.  I think since I am using the very max limit of the downtravel, it worked out with the shock at a fairly angled stance.  If you look at the front mount of the subframe though, it couldn't really be moved much further "up" and in straight line.  It seems fine when compressed, although I may have tucked it inwatrd too much.  At compression, there is an inward angle to the strut.  Like towards the centerline.  I didn't want to get the mount too close to the tire....but I might have overcompensated.

Whatever......this is temporary until I can drop ~$600-800 on a pair of fox long travel coilovers...........Or make something out of some F-150 rears or some crap.  IDK....mpre to come.

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maybe you can help me with other isue then too, i just want to know is it my front shocks that are bad , so i did lift 2'' with strut spacers and removed sway bars,  both front and rear. so those shocks can drop more down as i understand now and could it be that they like maxing its limits by droping thats why i have that weird sound when i dirve faster on speed bumps. like if its higher speed bump i drive on it maybe 40-50km/h and i think my front wheels are geting in air for some time and then its that nasty sound not like knock but like some rubbery kinda sound. like my shocks droped too much and when they landing they make that wierd kinda floping sound like vacum sound or something . 

could it be that if shocks on my car where never changed  yet from factory they just allready tired . most important if i put new shocks like KYB ones will that problem be gone and i could push them harder , well at least go through rough terain without any bad sounds ??

thanks. 

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I love how you guys can just go and do this then drive!  

I’d have to get engineering approval just to even think about welding in mounts for that rear end let alone modifiying the length of the arms!

It’s looking good too!  Mean with those tyres :D

Cheers 

Bennie

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5 hours ago, el_freddo said:

I love how you guys can just go and do this then drive!  

I’d have to get engineering approval just to even think about welding in mounts for that rear end let alone modifiying the length of the arms!

It’s looking good too!  Mean with those tyres :D

Cheers 

Bennie

Yeah.

Not possible in every state here, but most you can.   In Oregon there are very few rules about how a lift can be done and no inspection to check it if their were.  "lift kits" must be "made in such a way as to be safe"  is basically what the law says.  Really vague.  

Of course, if I was to ever cause an accident, my insurance could throw a fit and refuse to cover the liability...maybe.

I will point out that nothing has been welded to the original unibody.  A few little trims of some sheet metal edges is all I've done to the unibody.  The entire subframe is bolted into the EA81 suspension mounting points.  The entire thing could be removed, and the EA81 setup bolted right back in.

Edited by FerGloyale
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More pics of progress.

First heres a few shots of the finalized shock brackets.  They are a bit ugly.  Built from random drops of steel pieces around the shop, so there is some odd edges and stuff I didn't bother trying to cut/grind away to look pretty.  But they are temporary until the long travels get bought.  Just wanted to get the rear end built and driving so as to test camber/toe setup through the range of travel.  

46027244205_58ba67808f_k.jpgIMG_3505 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

32000193267_2d35e1a300_k.jpgIMG_3506 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

46027235235_c74159c816_k.jpgIMG_3508 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

And here's a teaser shot of the crossbracing mounted to the front snout of the subframe.  The big rubber bushing mount is one of the rear corner subframe mounts that was cutout to make room for the mount to the mustache bar brackets in back.  Now it is welded to the front, and canted at an angle so to resist paralellogram action with the other 4 bushings on the corners.  The plate it bolts to is connected to 3/16 wall 1x2 box tube that is connected to the EA torsion tube mounting point.  The idea here is to keep the lift blocks from having a lever action on the mounting points in the body, which is a big problem on EA81 lifts, since the blocks are in a single vertical plane (both holes in straight line).  Under cornering the blocks can go from

this... I I .... to like this  ......../  /.......  

The plate is basically tacked tot eh box tubing right now.  It will be changed and braced.  Obviously the way it is now wouldn't hold much force.  Just gettin things in place.

46027230565_e8b9034011_k.jpgIMG_3509 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Edited by FerGloyale

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So........I figured these would help.  Craiglist score.  One was supposed to be "just parts" but it seems to work too!   Capable of cutting 1" thick plate.  So 3/8th was nothing.

46953271031_c57cf42906_k.jpgIMG_3513 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

First few cut plates for the bottom of the EA side trailing arm blocks.  These plates will welded to the existing EA torsion mount blocks.  Leaving a large, flat, horizontal plate the trailing arm blocks can be set against, slid around until aligned, then welded.

46953263681_9815b0b402_k.jpgIMG_3517 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

46953261481_547e13e196_k.jpgIMG_3518 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

And then here are the finished trailing arm blocks.  Again, they aren't identical......used drops from other jobs. But they are stout as heck.  

46953266251_f39ba3f1aa_k.jpgIMG_3516 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

33077831688_7070a42e47_k.jpgIMG_3515 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

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Nice score on those spaz cutters Dan. Where's your shield cup for the torch?

Get a moisture filter for your air supply if you don't have one already.

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1 hour ago, czny said:

Nice score on those spaz cutters Dan. Where's your shield cup for the torch?

Get a moisture filter for your air supply if you don't have one already.

Torch came as is.  I got a dozen new tips with it but no gaurd or standoffs.  Meh...for what I paid, It's worth it.  Figure I'll buy a new torch assembly eventually, but for now it works way better and cheaper than the Oxy/Acetylene.

Machine has a built in regulator and drier.  Plus the air at this shop is pretty dry already.  80 gallon tank, 100's of feet of line with a drier before the last 50'

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So, test drove yesterday.  Could not get the toe correct, and it's pretty wonky over bumps.

After investigation, I am afraid I set the trailing arm mounts too close together.  I think this is causing the toe to change drastically as the suspension travels.

Measured from centerline of the arm pivot, it SHOULD be at 46.6 inches.  It ended up at 42.4 inches.

Gonna be using the Plasma cutter a bit more I guess.

 

on the upside, the added height and stiffer springs feel great.  14" clearance under the diff with a medium load.  Of course I haven't put the rear skid back on so that weighs about 45lbs. 

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Plates mounted to the body via old modified lift blocks

46192118235_5aa0e4f001_k.jpgIMG_3520 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Here's the other side, with the trailing bracket mounted.  This allows positioning of the bracket before welding to the plate above.

33230655778_05e35849ff_b.jpgIMG_3522 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Here' what I had to do to pull the brackets into place.  Now that I know that I was using a bad number to measure from (4+ inches too narrow)  I know why it was so hard to get them pulled in! lol  Also, in this shot you can see the crossbar of my built subframe.  With the diff now pushed about 4 inches further up into the body, that tube interferes with the driveline.  Had to change that, pics in the next shot.

46192104985_99b89b41a8_b.jpgIMG_3525 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Here's the subframe tube with a new cutout and bracing

47105790191_07e64eba5c_b.jpgIMG_3539 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

And here's the sliders connecting the subframe with the Trailing brackets.  Too bad these are gonna have to change again when I reposition the brackets 2" further out on each side.

46382213624_cdaa0a7fa7_b.jpgIMG_3544 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

32163927107_6afb4bed3d_b.jpgIMG_3543 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

And here's some pics of the finished crossbracing for the main subframe.  The added braces are kinda hard to see in the dark photos.

33230625018_dbc5888097_b.jpgIMG_3541 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

33230622628_8ffbbc45dc_b.jpgIMG_3542 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Here's the final height it will sit at viewed from underneath in the pit.

46192068005_51c8f5a73b_b.jpgIMG_3536 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Here's a shot of what the trailing brackets look like from the side of the rig.   These will need to change a bit, but basically haow it will be.  Gotta move these brackets outward about 2 inches each.

46192075005_8d51f38a16_b.jpgIMG_3546 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Edited by FerGloyale
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