“Looking” @GeneralDisorder for this: 

I’m wanting to do this to the EJ22 I pulled down recently. I’ve got some questions since it’s my first time diving into this (not the first time having an engine striped down this far). 

1) minor scuff marks or scoring on the piston skirts are ok to just “throw back in” or should I gently sandpaper the effected area?

2) the odd line in the bore is ok? 

3) best method to sort the ring end gap? 

4) best method to get the gudgeon pins/wrist pins back in? I see issues with lining up the con rod to make it all “just go back in” 

5) anything else I should know about doing this? 

6) any bedding in procedure that should be followed? 

Any tips or advice is very welcomed and appreciated! I find myself a bit nervous about this because a) I’ve not done this before and b) if it doesn’t work I’ve just blown some decent money on a very big learning curve! 

This engine will go into my brumby once the work is done  

Cheers 

Bennie

 

his overall theme has been to rering the pistons and leave everything else alone. 

for general piston slap and engine assembly, search each question you have and you should find what you need.  i think bedding is just a matter of oil choice and changing it soon after - he's discussed it before, i'd find his comments on it. 

context may matter too - why was the engine pulled, total miles. 

 

To answer number 4.

I find it easy when I first make sure the far side criclip is in.

I use a 8 in long 3/4" wood dowel as a drift. Once the rod is aligned just tap the oiled pin in until it bottoms out on the circlip. 

Install the front circlip and rotate to the next.

 

O.

5 hours ago, el_freddo said:

4) best method to get the gudgeon pins/wrist pins back in? I see issues with lining up the con rod to make it all “just go back in” 

Going in is easy, push with your fingers in one hand and wiggle the rod from underneath with the other.  It'll slot in once it locates.

Getting them out is trickier, I use a long thin screwdriver and tap them out from the opposite side of the block.  The screwdriver needs to be thin enough to clear the closer rod.

Thanks @nvu! I hadn’t thought about removing the sump to manipulate the conrod! It’s been well over a decade since my last full Subaru engine rebuild (EA82 - that was a mistake!). 

The sump needs to come off anyway so I’ll line this up at the same time as putting the pistons back in. 

Cheers 

Bennie

8 hours ago, idosubaru said:

 context may matter too - why was the engine pulled, total miles. 

Engine pulled from a parts yard (DIY yard). Re-ring being done as a matter of course to know the engine is in good condition. I’ve already run it on the ground and there’s no knocks or piston slapping etc. 

I know many may flog this idea, but I’m going to see how long it lasts as a “NA-t” or high compression turbo build with low boost. 

I won’t be putting custom pistons in - that drives the cost up too far and kind of defeats the purpose of this exercise. 

@idosubaru - I’ll do some research on GD’s posts and drop links in here. 

The bores will not be touched as per what I’ve read from GD’s recommendations. 

Cheers all! 

Bennie

Awesome. Ive worked on a guys Subaru’s, he ran an NA-T for quite a few miles in a 1997 Impreza. He ran it some on the track, tinkered it, used it as a daily driver, and loved it with no issues. He kept the boost low and monitored EGTs. 

“red devil”, username on other forums, had classic trials with NA-T decades ago. SC instead of Turbo but Those posts might be worth a look if they’re still around.

Edited April 10, 20205 yr by idosubaru

A mate called “Subarino” in Perth, WA has one of less than a hand full of Hatches in Oz, he’s running an EJ22 with the SC14 supercharger on 5 or 6 pounds. It went well before he sold it. Then he bought it back in rough condition and it’s been parked up in his shed for a resto between everything else he does. 

For him, body parts are the problem to repair rust... 

All that aside, the supercharger went very well on the EJ22! 

Cheers 

Bennie

^ Post two by GD. He suggests leaving vertical scoring as its typical for an older engine - any bore work will result in oil burning. 

 

^ Read the whole thread! Very informative about engine work. 

I’ll leave it off here for now. 

Cheers 

Bennie

I know CCR use to knurl the piston skirts to raise the metal and then turn them for the clearance they wanted.  Have  no idea if Rick is still doing that or not.

19 minutes ago, lmdew said:

I know CCR use to knurl the piston skirts to raise the metal and then turn them for the clearance they wanted.  Have  no idea if Rick is still doing that or not.

I’ve read up on knurling pistons but that’s way outside my skill set and tools available to me! 

Great idea though! 

Cheers 

Bennie

On ‎4‎/‎12‎/‎2020 at 5:19 AM, lmdew said:

I know CCR use to knurl the piston skirts to raise the metal and then turn them for the clearance they wanted.  Have  no idea if Rick is still doing that or not.

He does.  Wonder where he has disappeared to the last few weeks?

I use gravity to line up little end with piston hole on EA series

Sit block face down on bench , hopefully that bench is dead level