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Hello Everyone, 

im currently in a pickle, and in need of assistance. Long story short i placed a 2002 JDM EZ30D into my 1997 2.2L Impreza coupe. along with the entire 2003 outback L.L. bean Bulk head with front wire harnesses.

  1. Body Brighton Coupe
  2. Engine Ebay 36k JDM EZ30D 
  3. Wires from  2003 LL BEAN Edition
  4. Drivetrain 2005 4.44 WRX 5 spd Transmission/Dif

 

  • I have communication with the ECU
  • Fuel pump loud n proud. primes as needed
  • new battery starter alternator fuses relays etc. no joke
  • 1 Check engine light MAF. its not installed so I can reach the wires under it. NOT THEE ISSUE.
  • ignition Switch is from the Impreza and not the outback matching the engine
  • Neutral safety switch bypassed 0 volts 5 volts thing done.
  • Automatic gear selection circuit completed. car should think its in neutral.
  • I want to turn the key and start the car... I know I can bump start it. I don't want to. the nice land lord lady saw me drive it in...has to see me drive it out wink wink. in a pickle
  • Everything is working as intended upon the moment of turning the ignition on 1 turn unlock 2 turns speedometer gauge/ecu /fuel pump etc. turn on. 3rd turn-> to ON, every relay clicks starter weakly clicks then Silence. no rumbling T.T
  • Not siezed has compression. Shut up =)
  • Every Electrical ground has been gone thru OCD cleaned repeatedly checked, yep tight n clean.

If I left something out. please notice it and ill explain further. Its done as cleanly as it could be done using all OEM parts. OCD OCD OCD

SMS,  Save My Subaru I Beg you.

any info you can give me will be greatly appreciated. 

 

 

 

Edited by Ez30D-4.444

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The engine doesn’t turn over at all?  Or it turns over but doesn’t start?

I think you’re saying it doesn’t turn over at all. 

check for voltage at the starter and the starter circuit in general. 

did you install more than just the engine and TCU wiring and maybe included the 2003 wiring for the stock alarm system?

If a 2003 Outback lock out is triggered it won’t allow the engine to turn over. The remedy in a stock Outback is to put the key in the ignition and turn the key to ON (not start) then off, three times in a row. This is a stock functionality.

typically one installs just the engine and ECU wiring so this is a non issue. but I’m just making sure you didn’t include more than that.

its an OEM starter or aftermarket?

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its supposed to beep or honk once or twice when alarm unlocks right? nothing just silence 

Not turning over. not cranking. Wire harness, Everything that comes with the stock wire harness is in the dash space. From TCU to seat warmers to nav-gov and all-star so on. 

alarm is there. I've attempted the 3 key turns to unlock alarm. numerous times. doesn't seem to be the gremlin I'm looking for. I have also attempted to turn the car on with TCU and Alarm box unplug and plugged in. no luck yet.

not the ECU either, many to swap out same issue with them all, its not the ECU

Fuel pump is a high flow WRX, not stock 1997 that part can RIP. also have more if it does fail on me. it should crank without fuel though, which I have.

yes OEM and other starter(s) have been tested in and out of the car at Various auto part stores and 1 professional mechanic. ill check again tonight and see how many volts im getting when key is turned, in circuit. 

 I may have to make a video to show you exactly what its doing. on first attempt

Thank you Reading.

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I’m not up with that later model stuff - so take this with whatever, I could be completely wrong! 

Did you take the whole immobiliser system across to the new car, including the key from the donor? You’ll need the transponder in the key to talk to the security system - and you’ll need the receiver aerial on the ignition barrel if you don’t already have one/it. 

Thats my limited understanding of the factory security - everything needs to be match matchy!

Hope this helps. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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3 hours ago, Ez30D-4.444 said:

its supposed to beep or honk once or twice when alarm unlocks right? 

I think the beeping can be disabled on these, but yes they beep and that’s the standard configuration if you don’t change it. If it was previously set to “no beep”, then maybe it would retain that.  But if the key turns aren’t working..??? I’m unsure how that lock out functionality works to test it any further.  

This is definitely 2003 wiring side?  2005+ would be problematic but I’m sure you know that. 

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If you unplug the security module the starter will not work. That disables the Interrupt Relay. There are two pins that have to be connected to bypass the Interrupt Relay contacts. See the wiring diagram for Starter MT and AT (upper left corner) pins 2 and 6 on Connector B59. A pic of the plug is at the bottom on the page. It is the connector side, not the wire side.

Pin 15 on Connector B93 of the security module supplies a ground for the interrupt relay coil. Check it to see if it is 0 volts with the key in start position. If it is 12v then the security module is not closing the relay.

The automatic trans inhibitor switch wires must be jumped. I don't know what you mean by 0 - 5v thing.

I would also check the wiring diagram on the door lock system and compare between the two vehicles. I did not do that.

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I learned a New part name tonight, Interrupt Relay. Thank you. 

Security module plug tests results are 0 volts to every pin except pin 12, 14 and 16. all at 12 volts.  interrupt relay is plugged in, although it was tested and it was 0 volts on all pins. =) I don't know what that means. Schematics/internet surfs up, for me.

 

 for the inhibitor switch wires, which 2 color wires or is it like I was told all 4 wires jumped together?

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interrupt relay wires, 2 large gauge White Black,  White Green and Blue Black wires.

pin 2 to pin 6 ?

pin 2 is a large gauge White Black and pin 6 is a very small Blue Black wire. I was warned not to connect 2 wires of that much of a size difference.

I will if you're sure about it. 

yes, Definitely on the 2003 side maybe even 2002. i did enjoy learning the differences between the two first hand. 2006 EZ30R harness hiding in a tote.

Edited by Ez30D-4.444

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Connector B59 Pin 2 is WB and Pin 6 is WG. Both should be large gauge.

 

Edited by Rampage
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Connector B12 - Pin 12 is White Green and Pin 11 is White Lavender. Jumper together.

Inhibitor sw.jpg

Edited by Rampage
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On 8/30/2020 at 2:49 AM, Ez30D-4.444 said:

interrupt relay is plugged in, although it was tested and it was 0 volts on all pins.

With IGN KEY in Start position, 3 pins will have 12v and the 4th pin will be ground IF the security module is working otherwise it will also be 12v.

With IGN Key in Start position 12v on pins 1 and 2 and 4 if Security Module is not working and 0v on 6.
If Security Module is working and grounds pin 4, 12v on pins 1 2 and 6.

Edited by Rampage
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the inhibitor switch was left on the automictic transmission I unplugged the wire harness from. Can that same jump be done without it? or should I purchase one?

I see 2 plugs available on the wire harness cluster connecting the inside compartment bulkhead wire harness to the engine bay wire harness. one is B12, I think. can that same jump be done there instead of the inhibitor switch? I didn't see those color wires on the plug I'm looking at, it has pins 11 White Blue and 12 white Green. 

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2 hours ago, Ez30D-4.444 said:

I see 2 plugs available on the wire harness cluster connecting the inside compartment bulkhead wire harness to the engine bay wire harness. one is B12, I think. can that same jump be done there instead of the inhibitor switch? I didn't see those color wires on the plug I'm looking at, it has pins 11 White Blue and 12 white Green. 

Yes, it will be the only 12 pin connector on top of the bellhousing. Lavender looks like blue.

Pin 11 should show continuity to the small connector on the starter. Pin 12 should show 12v when the key is turned to Start. (if the interrupt relay is working OR jumped)

Strip the tape back a little ways and cut the two wires. I would twist and solder them, but you can use a wire nut. If you have silicone grease (dielectric for spark plug wires) Poke the twisted wires in it and then put the wire nut on them. Keeps moisture off the wire. Tape it and the open end of the connector.

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20 hours ago, Ez30D-4.444 said:

the inhibitor switch was left on the automictic transmission I unplugged the wire harness from. Can that same jump be done without it? or should I purchase one?

I see 2 plugs available on the wire harness cluster connecting the inside compartment bulkhead wire harness to the engine bay wire harness. one is B12, I think. can that same jump be done there instead of the inhibitor switch? I didn't see those color wires on the plug I'm looking at, it has pins 11 White Blue and 12 white Green. 

I have an inhibitor switch from a 2002 H6 if you end up needing 

 

On 8/30/2020 at 3:07 AM, Ez30D-4.444 said:

I was warned not to connect 2 wires of that much of a size difference.

If neither will be pulling their deigned load due to be disconnected/unused then I wouldn’t expect this to be an issue.  if they’re being tired together for a reference signal, and not pulling amps for the original designed circuit load, the size shouldn’t be indicative of the load any more. 

i haven’t followed all of those last replies related to the switch to know if that’s the case here or not. 

Edited by idosubaru

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Rampage.. Rampage.. Rampage!!! Thank you very much! its Cranking LOUD without them headers!!!! I owe you a Wine n cheese basket to say the least. no joke IOU for real. I was defeated when I began this Forum. You hit the mark Spot on. 

 its crank spooked my elderly neighbors, so respectfully I haven't yet had the chance to turn it on to idle. =) condo struggles...

Interrupt Relay Pin 2  to pin 6 jumped , B12 Pin 11 wire cut, solder, taped an well spliced to Pin 12 wire. Success!:clap:

I don't know if I'm out of the forest yet no longer in the desert starring at a mirage so I'm a happy camper.:D

I'll know more Soon. Thank you all for your support!

 

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1 hour ago, Ez30D-4.444 said:

Rampage.. Rampage.. Rampage!!! Thank you very much! its Cranking LOUD without them headers!!!! I owe you a Wine n cheese basket to say the least. no joke IOU for real. I was defeated when I began this Forum. You hit the mark Spot on. 

 its crank spooked my elderly neighbors, so respectfully I haven't yet had the chance to turn it on to idle. =) condo struggles...

Interrupt Relay Pin 2  to pin 6 jumped , B12 Pin 11 wire cut, solder, taped an well spliced to Pin 12 wire. Success!:clap:

I don't know if I'm out of the forest yet no longer in the desert starring at a mirage so I'm a happy camper.:D

I'll know more Soon. Thank you all for your support!

 

Great, that's gotta feel good. 

So it did end up being the security system right?

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B12-11 and B12-12 jumpered together bypasses the transmission mounted inhibitor switch.  Fools the car to thinking its in a safe gear to start up.  I used to have to do this on my 2002 H6 because the inhibitor switch was slightly out of calibration and when the car warmed up it would not start again until it cooled down.   Car is dead when this happens, no crank.  I would disconnect B12 (it sits on top of the transmission), jumper pins 11-12 with a paper clip, start the car, and reconnect. 

Edited by 89Ru

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12 hours ago, 89Ru said:

B12-11 and B12-12 jumpered together bypasses the transmission mounted inhibitor switch.  Fools the car to thinking its in a safe gear to start up.  I used to have to do this on my 2002 H6 because the inhibitor switch was slightly out of calibration and when the car warmed up it would not start again until it cooled down.   Car is dead when this happens, no crank.  I would disconnect B12 (it sits on top of the transmission), jumper pins 11-12 with a paper clip, start the car, and reconnect. 

That’s an incredible work around. Is the “interrupt relay” part of the inhibitor switch or a separate part?

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1 hour ago, idosubaru said:

That’s an incredible work around. Is the “interrupt relay” part of the inhibitor switch or a separate part?

Interrupt relay was not part of my vocabulary until this thread!  The inhibitor switch is a small black box that bolts to the passenger side of the trans.  No relays in there. 

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17 hours ago, Ez30D-4.444 said:

Interrupt Relay Pin 2  to pin 6 jumped , B12 Pin 11 wire cut, solder, taped an well spliced to Pin 12 wire. Success

Great!!! Now we know you have a good IGN Switch and starter. Keep in mind that when you turn the key, the starter will crank the engine in any gear now.

Down the road, IF you want the security system to work replace the jumper ( pins 2 and 6) with the relay and have fun. I don't know much about them (only what I can see in the wiring diagrams) and I really don't want to. My 73 year old brain doesn't like to be overloaded.

I mostly work on computers now, but the last two vehicles I wired from scratch was a 37 PT50 Plymouth Pickup truck 3 years ago and a 52 Ford F1 Pickup truck this past winter.

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2 hours ago, idosubaru said:

Is the “interrupt relay” part of the inhibitor switch or a separate part?

Separate parts. You know the inhibitor sw. is on the auto tranny gear selector. The inhibitor relay is under the dash. The contacts of the relay and the inhibitor sw. are wired in series. If either one is open the starter solenoid will not get power from the IGN SW Start position.

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1 hour ago, Rampage said:

Separate parts. You know the inhibitor sw. is on the auto tranny gear selector. The inhibitor relay is under the dash. The contacts of the relay and the inhibitor sw. are wired in series. If either one is open the starter solenoid will not get power from the IGN SW Start position.

Thanks for all your comments here.  Got it.  Did that need addressed due to the security system or the auto to manual swap?

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12 hours ago, idosubaru said:

Did that need addressed due to the security system or the auto to manual swap?

Auto to manual swap mostly, but we don't know if the security system is working yet so jump 2+6 then find out later.

The automatic uses the inhibitor switch Park + Neutral positions to short pins 11+12 on that connector and the OE manual clutch pedal controls a relay in its place. So both can interrupt power to the starter solenoid.

You could pick up an inhibitor switch and plug it in and put it in park and it would work (until the contacts go bad from never being moved). Electrolysis causes contacts to insulate from each other if they are not moved to wipe off the oxide on the contacts.

I wanted pins 2+6 jumped to make sure the engine would crank and it did. Now that it runs, the relay can be put back in place of the jumper and see if the security module works and lets it crank. If it does, great, but if it doesn't well, that is a whole different ball park.

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Progress has been made. Thanks again. I'm not yet idling. Once I was able to crank  correctly a CEL code appeared P0335 Crank shaft position sensor, has been replaced code solved!

 few loud miss fires I was happy to hear. although its not yet starting/idling.  I'm now thinking its cold Spark plugs or cold/bad coils? I don't think fuel lines are crossed.

for the Swaps' first start how many times should I crank before it powers over/ idling on its own?

also added fresh fuel and I've been using starter fluid, just because.

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