well i'm almost 100% sure that it is a blown hg, but i don't seem to be down on power. ther is a high pressure leak that you can see and hear, but it keeps going for like 5 to 10 minutes after you turn the car off. is there any way i can tell if it is a blown hg and or a cracked head? without pulling the head off. how much should i look to pay to have a hg replace. i know i guy that works on forgien cars and i was going to try and make a deal with him since i'm a painter. sorry its so long

What do you mean by a high pressure leak? Where is the leak coming from and what is leaking, water or air? Is there evidence of water in the oil (milkshake) or oil in the water? Is it overheating? We need more details.

yeah its overheating but not going in to the red just outside of it. whats leaking is water and air, i would say its about 60 psi(thats just a guess) and it keeps going after i turn the car off. i don't see any thing in the water or oil. the leak is below the lines running to the heater core. there is also a lot of pressure in the raditor hose on the passenger side.

Have your mech. do a cylinder Leakdown Test with compressed air.

 

This will tell you where your HG is leaking if it really is.

Well, it sounds like you have a pinhole leak in one of the heater hoses. The best way to find it get it hot then take a flashlight and see if you can figure out which one it is.

Well, it sounds like you have a pinhole leak in one of the heater hoses. The best way to find it get it hot then take a flashlight and see if you can figure out which one it is.

yeah your right it was a pinhole in the heater hose. i thought for sure that i was coming from the block. i im still haveing over heating problems, well not all the way but getting really hot. i can kind of feel cold spots on the rad. thanks for all the help.

Heater cores usually crap out after about 12 to 13 years..

try a new thermostat.

Cold spot on the bottom of the rad after it reaches running temp means the rad needs a good flushing or re-core, or even replaced. Try a good flush first, might want to check the other water lines too.

i was going to go get a flush kit tomorrow. what is a re-core never heard of it. i have been meaning to replace all of the hoses.

what is a re-core never heard of it.

Young uns!!!

 

Generically, turbone meant a new radiator. Once upon a time, rather than get a whole new radiator, radiator shops whould remove the inlet and outlet tanks and solder them on to a new radiator "core". Nowadays, radiators are throw away items and the complete radiators come in boxes.

Yeah, just order a new one. You can get them for about a hunnert bucks.

Your Subaru will love you for it.

Flush the block and heater core before you put your new clean radiator in.

oh ok, i think i will try and get one in the next couple of weeks, i have to rent a storage shed for the wagon this weekend, so there goes the money for a new rad.

In regard to the overheating I was having the same problem with My Brat. I put a new radiator in(because it needed it) and still was running hot. The temp gauge was running just under hot but the radiator had cold spots. It was a bad thermastat not letting the coolant flow. Go to All Foriegn on Mission St. and ask Paul about the cooler 160 degree stat. Its only a couple of bucks and a good place to start. Not to discredit the new radiator Idea or the flush. They are also possabilities. Just cheaper to start with the stat.

In regard to the overheating I was having the same problem with My Brat. I put a new radiator in(because it needed it) and still was running hot. The temp gauge was running just under hot but the radiator had cold spots. It was a bad thermastat not letting the coolant flow. Go to All Foriegn on Mission St. and ask Paul about the cooler 160 degree stat. Its only a couple of bucks and a good place to start. Not to discredit the new radiator Idea or the flush. They are also possabilities. Just cheaper to start with the stat.

 

On a related note, I recommend only OEM thermostats for subarus. I've had bad luck with aftermarket ones not working properly, and the factory thermostats really aren't that expensive. They also look like they're built to last, unlike the cheap aftermarket ones.

On a related note, I recommend only OEM thermostats for subarus. I've had bad luck with aftermarket ones not working properly, and the factory thermostats really aren't that expensive. They also look like they're built to last, unlike the cheap aftermarket ones.

 

there are multiple grades of aftermarket tstats, standt makes what they call the superstat that looks like its meant to last, its made entirely of higher quality materials than a normal tstat. they also carry a life time warranty. ive been using their normal tstat and the car isnt over heating at all, the only issue i have is unrelated to the tstat.

Cool, I'll have to check that out. Thanks.

My parts guy also sells two grades of thermostats - regular and 'heavy-duty'. The heavy-duty variety is the Stant Superstat. It's what I've been using for a couple of years now, and they seem to hold up really well. They're a lot more expensive than the cheap brand (I don't even know the brand name of those ones), but they're WAY better built. I'd put them on the same level as an OEM stat.

In regard to the overheating I was having the same problem with My Brat. I put a new radiator in(because it needed it) and still was running hot. The temp gauge was running just under hot but the radiator had cold spots. It was a bad thermastat not letting the coolant flow. Go to All Foriegn on Mission St. and ask Paul about the cooler 160 degree stat. Its only a couple of bucks and a good place to start. Not to discredit the new radiator Idea or the flush. They are also possabilities. Just cheaper to start with the stat.

yeah i all foriegn is the only place i really go to get anything for my subys. i just went with the new rad, it was $118, i think it was made by a company called cfs or something works really nice. i perty sure that i don't have a stuck tstat cause i flushed the block and water flowed out and looked like sh**

T-stats can fail either open or closed. If you can spend the money for a new rad, whats a couple more bucks for a new t-stat?

Turbone is right while you have it apart you should spend the extra couple $$. Do you have the new rad in yet? Did it fix the problem if you do? Anyway best of luck. We might have to get together and hit Birch Mt. one of these rainy days. You might remember seeing me at the E. Wenatchee safeway a couple weeks ago?

Turbone is right while you have it apart you should spend the extra couple $$. Do you have the new rad in yet? Did it fix the problem if you do? Anyway best of luck. We might have to get together and hit Birch Mt. one of these rainy days. You might remember seeing me at the E. Wenatchee safeway a couple weeks ago?

yeah i rember seeing you at safeway. i see you all over the place. yeah i have the new rad in and it works f-ing good. if the drive really hard it gets a little bit warm but cools right down. yeah birth is somewhere i haven't taken a suby yet.

Yea, Birth would be a pretty strange place to take a subaru. Just kidding I know what you mean. I spelled it wrong the first time too it should be Burch. Anyway Burch is some of the stickiest clay mud around. Another place is up Nahaham canyon above Cashmere. All we need is a little more moisture.

Yea, Birth would be a pretty strange place to take a subaru. Just kidding I know what you mean. I spelled it wrong the first time too it should be Burch. Anyway Burch is some of the stickiest clay mud around. Another place is up Nahaham canyon above Cashmere. All we need is a little more moisture.

thick mud you say. i know were nahaham canyon is, just never been to far up it.