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Brake Bleed sequence for 2000+


Heartless turned me on to this, after I followed incorrect sequence, as printed in Haynes manual.....


Per Heartless/Factory Service Manual....Correct sequence is...


Front Right, Rear Left, Front Left, Rear Right


Sorry if I didn't do this right, (I'm relatively new here) Not a link, but necessary information.

Edited by KaraK
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link to the write up for adding a starter relay to your ignition circuit. this fix may correct a no start issue. and in my opinion it is easier than replacing the contacts in the starter solenoid. starterrelay, starterrelayfix, starter relay fix


starterrelay repair

Edited by johnceggleston

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I just tried the following and it worked.

Disclaimer: The procedure, as tested, applies to axles that are held with a roll pin to the differential output stub shaft. I don't know if there will be sufficient room to perform it with pin-less axles, but there's always hope.

Axle removal procedure:

Wheels pointing straight, front end lifted and safely supported, axle nut & roll pin removed.

Disconnect sway bar link from the control arm (12 mm head, M8 bolt and nut), and the control arm from the cross-member at the forward mount (17 mm head, M12).

Under the hood: if working on the right side, disconnect air intake duct and move it out of the way so that there is a clear view of the inner CV joint (DOJ) housing. Disconnect PCV/vacuum hoses to move the duct, as needed. Stuff something into the throttle body.

If working on the left side, you may need to move the washer bottle. My hands-on experience, as of this writing, is only with the RH axle.

Hook one end of a bungee cord to the axle shaft near the DOJ, and the other end to a suitable hole in the hood reinforcement, somewhere near the top. The idea is to support the weight of the axle shaft after it is disconnected from the stub. Depending on the length and stiffness of the cords available to you, you may need to find a right combination by connecting them in sequence and/or in parallel.

The key step: Pulling the knuckle outwards, slide the DOJ off the stub shaft and direct it upwards and to the rear, to the area where the front differential housing tapers down towards the transmission (MT or AT). The cord should be adjusted to hold the shaft in that position. This, together with the unbolted control arm, provides enough clearance to slide the other end of the axle out of the wheel hub. Done.

Installation is reverse.

As always, remember to load the suspension with the car's weight before fully torquing the control arm and the sway bar link.

Edited by avk

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Allow me to introduce you to the "Subaru Virgin" switch. :)


There is a rocker switch on the top of the steering column. It is labeled with a P and some dashes indicating lighting. This switch turns on the parking lights even if the ignition is off, headlights are off, etc. This is a code/regulation requirement in other countries. What usually happens, is that the unsuspecting owner will bump this switch while cleaning the dash.


Don't feel bad, it's happened to many.




The first Subaru i owned, about 10 years ago, had that switch, and i accidentally hit it one day, and it took me 3 days to figure out why my parking lights wouldnt go out when i turned the car off.

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Posting these two links on Head gasket problems explained  for Subarus in general including the problem child EJ25D / EJ251 engines.


These are the best single article explanations I've seen.





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Link to FSM 05, 08 and 09

After checking above you have to copy and paste into your browser, it won't work by clicking directly on link

Link to FSM 90 -2004

Link to all Subaru models and FSM:

Parts Catalog


Edited by ocei77
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whole different engine - new cars have the FB style 4 cyl. the gasket issue referenced was mostly first gen dohc 2.5s introduced 20 years ago - a fraction of later (2008? up to the FBs introduction)soob engines do seem to develop slow external leaks after they age. Not sure about the FB yet.


others may have a better sense about newer stuff

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

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