Anyone using 5W-30 oil on 2.2L Legacy?

[illanrob]

Anyone using 5W-30 oil on 2.2L Legacy? I used this oil for the first time, had a case intended for the 03 Baja, after trying to correct a limp lifter which was making a lot of noise at idle. The engine cleaner seemed to clear the clogged lifter since the engine got very quiet in idle after running the cleaner for 5 minutes. Then when refilling with 5W-30 the engine got noisier than before but the lifter tapping was less or gone. Maybe I need to go back to 10W-40 and it should get quieter.

 

Robert Illan

[beezer]

I probably wouldn't use it unless you typically hafe sub-freezing temps. The owners manual doesn't recommend it if you are doing extended highway driving either.

 

Beezer

[Chef]

I probably wouldn't use it unless you typically hafe sub-freezing temps. The owners manual doesn't recommend it if you are doing extended highway driving either.

 

Beezer

 

Here in Canada 5w30 is pretty much the standard in winter. I run it all winter long in any car I've owned, and I do a lot of highway travelling now. It is only a problem really in hot weather.

[northguy]

Sometimes up,here we'll run it. Mostly Dec and Jan.

[SoobSkier]

My owners manual (96 OBW, 2.2L) says 5W-30 is "preferred".

 

I only use it in the winter here in Colorado.

[hogweed]

it is the worst multi-grade oil around. 20w50 in the spring/summer and 30 wight in the fall winter. if you live in extreme cold, follow mfg recommendation but NO @#*& 10w40!!!

[Legacy777]

What year 2.2 legacy? The owner's manual says not to run 5w30 if you drive at highway speeds, higher rpm for long periods of time.

 

Hogweed, care to elaborate why 10w40 is the worst oil?

[_Aramchek_]

What year 2.2 legacy? The owner's manual says not to run 5w30 if you drive at highway speeds, higher rpm for long periods of time.

 

 

My 96 OBW also reccomends 5w30 oil,it's what I've been using.

[WJM]

I usually run 10w30 mobil 1 in my EJ25D outback.

 

I run 5w30 Motul in the RX.

[elmwood22]

I use Castrol 10W-30 in the summer and Castrol 5W-30 in the winter. I use to live in northern MN- subzero temps and thick oil don't mix. I would follow your owners manual for recommendations. About the oil, I run castrol, some like it some don't. Its a never-ending battle. On my first 2.2L legacy wagon I ran pennzoil, not one problem and over 200,000 miles on the engine.

[SoobSkier]

What I don't understand is why the owners manuals for the 2.2l Outback and 2.2l Legacy say different things. Don't both of these cars have the same engine, the EJ22?

[operose]

5w30 is the only way to go, here, in the winter time....

[hogweed]

Hogweed, care to elaborate why 10w40 is the worst oil?

it does not do anything particularly well. a mechanic friend of mine swears that many of the engine failures he sees are a result of this oil's inability to do the job. routine oil changes and engines just junked up with sludge. 10w40 was created by the oil companies to bridge the gap between oils for different climate conditions, hence the "super multi-grade" distinction. stations wouldn't need to stock many different grades so it was attractive from a cost standpoint. in my opinion it's kind of like "the jack of all trades, master of none" of the lubricant world.

[Bmm001]

The way I understand it, cars with hydraulic lifters (pre-1997) recommend against 5w30 for highway driving. Remember all the changes in the engines between those years. If someone knows the real reason, please chime in. I just go along with the 15W40 that my mechanic puts in year-round. Works fine for all our Subies.

 

Brian

[_Aramchek_]

The way I understand it, cars with hydraulic lifters (pre-1997) recommend against 5w30 for highway driving. Remember all the changes in the engines between those years. If someone knows the real reason, please chime in. I just go along with the 15W40 that my mechanic puts in year-round. Works fine for all our Subies.

 

Brian

 

Mine's a '96 and it tells me to use 5w30 in the manual.

[friendly_jacek]

"My 96 OBW also reccomends 5w30 oil."

Vs.

 

"The owner's manual says not to run 5w30 if you drive at highway speeds, higher rpm for long periods of time."

 

Which of these is correct?

BOTH!

 

Recommends 5W30 because most people in US use cars for short trip, stop and go, city driving when oil never reaches operating temp. 5W30 allows for better protection and MPG at lower oil temps. Notice that Honda, Ford, and Mazda switched to 5W20 in USA.

 

At the same time if you drive hard, fast, and far (think autobahn) or tow, the oil temp is 200-300F and 5W30 is just not thick enough. This is why cars in Europe and Australia specify 5W40, 10W40, 20W50, and 10W60 oils.

 

If you want both of these worlds look at the specs of Castrol SLX 0W30 aka German Syntec 0W30 in US.

[Bmm001]

I also remember reading that the switch in recommendation is for fuel economy reasons. I'm not trying to start a debate here, but I don't think there's going to be that much of a measurable difference, unless, like Jackeck says, you never heat your oil up enough. Being in college, most of my trips are longer, highway-type trips (PA turnpike, I-81, I-83, etc.), so I'm sure my oil gets plenty hot.

 

Moral of the story: Use whatever oil you're comfortable with!

 

Brian

[blitz]

10W-40 fell out of favor 25 years ago and still suffers from a hangover to this day ...most of it undeserved.

 

1. The group I (sovent-refined) base-stocks suffered from wax crystalization thickening at cold temperatures. This no longer a problem with group II and higher basestocks that comprise the bulk of current formulations.

 

2. The breakdown of inferior VII polymers caused sludge formation ...once again no longer a problem owing to new generation VII adds (and less VII adds, because of the higher starting VI of modern basestocks).

 

The only thing that plagues most current run-of-the-mill 10W-40's is the weak add-packs. The curret lack of demand for this grade deters most producers from formulating expensive (robust) add-packs for it.

 

It's not fair to make a blanket statement about 10W-40. There are premium synthetic 10W-40 products on the shelf that kick rump roast.

 

**** ******!

[BigMattyD]

Blitz may be one of the smartest, most well-informed people in the universe!!

 

Also, I do believe that 5W-30 oil came into fashion in the late 80's due in part to requirements on vehicle manufacturers to improve the fuel mileage of their fleets. I think that 5W-30 is classified "energy conserving" while 10W-40 is not. I think it was an attempt to eke out a small improvement in mpg, perhaps at the risk of using a product less suitable in other areas of performance.

 

I have been using 5W-30 in all my vehicles for many years, and have not suffered. However, I will probably reconsider based on the information I have gained over the past few years, and try to tailor my oil choices to the seasons. It can range from 15 below zero to 97 above here in my area.

 

 

 

10W-40 fell out of favor 25 years ago and still suffers from a hangover to this day ...most of it undeserved.

 

1. The group I (sovent-refined) base-stocks suffered from wax crystalization thickening at cold temperatures. This no longer a problem with group II and higher basestocks that comprise the bulk of current formulations.

 

2. The breakdown of inferior VII polymers caused sludge formation ...once again no longer a problem owing to new generation VII adds (and less VII adds, because of the higher starting VI of modern basestocks).

 

The only thing that plagues most current run-of-the-mill 10W-40's is the weak add-packs. The curret lack of demand for this grade deters most producers from formulating expensive (robust) add-packs for it.

 

It's not fair to make a blanket statement about 10W-40. There are premium synthetic 10W-40 products on the shelf that kick rump roast.

 

**** ******!

[Meeky Moose]

in my old ea81 and ea82 engines i run 20w50 with a 1/4qt of MMO..(thins it out some) never had any issues with this.. not even for an old turbo wagon with 297k.. the engine was pulled and taken apart when the car got junked due to rust.. it was spotless inside.. ohh, and this was a turbo ea82 at that.. turbo was original also.. never had a problem.. in the outback i had i used to run 10w30 as the winters are mild here.. no issues there either.. in the 93' 2.2 turbo legacy i'm trying something new.. am running castorl synthetic blend 10w30.. its supposed to be great for the short trips.. which i make everyday (5 miles twice a day) not using MMo with this either.. as a general rule of thumb i stay away from 10w40.. no real reason i suppose tho..

[blitz]

Blitz may be one of the smartest, most well-informed people in the universe!!

That's actually true.

 

I 'spose if it weren't for the fact that I'm also a geek with almost zero social skills I'd probably take-off and fly straight up my awn rump roast. :-\

[Chef]

So let me ask the crowd here then for a recommendation. I live in a climate where winters are sub-zero for the most part, although it's been unusually mild this year. Still, hitting -15 to -20 °C is not uncommon overnight. So 5W30 seems a good choice for winter.

 

But, I also travel highway extensively (at least 2 hours daily). Does the 30 weight fall short of what I should use? Should I be using 10w40, or even 5w40 (if it exists)? I don't mind spending a couple of extra bucks to ensure I've got good protection in my EJ22.

[dxrflyboy]

So let me ask the crowd here then for a recommendation. I live in a climate where winters are sub-zero for the most part, although it's been unusually mild this year. Still, hitting -15 to -20 °C is not uncommon overnight. So 5W30 seems a good choice for winter.

 

But, I also travel highway extensively (at least 2 hours daily). Does the 30 weight fall short of what I should use? Should I be using 10w40, or even 5w40 (if it exists)? I don't mind spending a couple of extra bucks to ensure I've got good protection in my EJ22.

If you're concerned and willing to spend the money, the best way to go is use a PAO-based synthetic oil, such as Amsoil and Mobil 1. Castrol Syntec is Type III petroleum based oil. It's good, but not as good as Type IV PAO-based oil. Do some research on synthetic motor oils on the 'net. It will amaze you. There are 0w30/40 and 5w40/50 synthetics available that offer both cold starting and high speed viscosity protection. Personally, I don't have vehicles that I'm willing to spend that kind of money on for oil, although I probably should. But for those who are willing to pay for the best, the best is available.

[vic/se]

So let me ask the crowd here then for a recommendation. I live in a climate where winters are sub-zero for the most part, although it's been unusually mild this year. Still, hitting -15 to -20 °C is not uncommon overnight. So 5W30 seems a good choice for winter.

 

But, I also travel highway extensively (at least 2 hours daily). Does the 30 weight fall short of what I should use? Should I be using 10w40, or even 5w40 (if it exists)? I don't mind spending a couple of extra bucks to ensure I've got good protection in my EJ22.

 

if your engine has over 100k I would use 10w30. You will even notice how quieter the engine runs.

[beezer]

Chef

 

Crap! Just spent 15 minutes typing to get kicked out!

 

So here is the condensed version.

 

I would switch to 10w30, if you are worried go with a synthetic. I live about an hour from you, and yeah we have had a pretty mild winter so far. I'm sure living in Toronto highway driving is probably pretty normal. The owners manual does seem pretty specific that 5w30 should not be used for extended highway driving. I have been using 10w30 for the last 2 winters with no ill effects that I know of.

 

 

The 1st version was much better, sorry got to go.

 

 

Beezer