We had in the shop a 92 Legacy LS wagon that we plan on getting the engine out of to transplant into a Vanagon (and I get the rest of the parts for Emily!)

 

Did a compression check after warming the engine up 145 everywhere. Ran a can of seafoam through it and the compression went up to 175 everywhere. I'd say that is fairly valid proof that Seafoam works. . .

What do you think happened? Valves are now seating better?

We had in the shop a 92 Legacy LS wagon that we plan on getting the engine out of to transplant into a Vanagon (and I get the rest of the parts for Emily!)

 

Did a compression check after warming the engine up 145 everywhere. Ran a can of seafoam through it and the compression went up to 175 everywhere. I'd say that is fairly valid proof that Seafoam works. . .

 

What is Seafoam? Where is it available?

What do you think happened? Valves are now seating better?

Either that or the top rings are finally unstuck from their carbaceous mire of cheap 5W-30 varnish ...maybe a little of both.

 

**** ******!

Seafoam is a fantastic gunk/varnish solvent in a can that you can pick up at most Pep Boys or Car Quest stores. And actually, now that I'm relocated to Denver from SoCal, I can say for sure that SeaFoam is stocked at the Pep Boys in Wheat Ridge (saw it there yesterday)! There's a great post in the archives here somewhere that shows you how to suck SeaFoam in thru the intake manifold to clean the entire top end of your engine. A little smoky, but worth it if you have a high mileage engine and you want to unstick some gunked up valves, etc. before changing oil the next time.

Ran a can of seafoam through it . . .

 

All top end, or did you put it in the oil and gas as well?

I've seen various opinions on this, but from what I can tell, it does its best work as a top end cleaner. It is an agressive solvent, so it probably does a reasonable job of de-gunking rings as well. Of course on the can they recommend using it as both an oil and fuel additive, too. I suspect that mixed with a tank of gas it would be about as effective as any other fuel line/injector cleaner out there -- and some solvents do a number on nylon and other plastics as well as on varnish in the fuel lines, so since I worry about such things, I've never used it in fuel. Since it is relatively thin, I haven't used it for long in the oil -- only like an oil system flush -- where you put it in old oil and let the engine run at idle for 5-10 minutes -- then drain and refill oil. IMHO, it really is best at cleaning the gunk around valves, and for that sucking it in via manifold vacuum is the best way to get it into the system.

I've seen various opinions on this, but from what I can tell, it does its best work as a top end cleaner. It is an agressive solvent, so it probably does a reasonable job of de-gunking rings as well. Of course on the can they recommend using it as both an oil and fuel additive, too. I suspect that mixed with a tank of gas it would be about as effective as any other fuel line/injector cleaner out there -- and some solvents do a number on nylon and other plastics as well as on varnish in the fuel lines, so since I worry about such things, I've never used it in fuel. Since it is relatively thin, I haven't used it for long in the oil -- only like an oil system flush -- where you put it in old oil and let the engine run at idle for 5-10 minutes -- then drain and refill oil. IMHO, it really is best at cleaning the gunk around valves, and for that sucking it in via manifold vacuum is the best way to get it into the system.

 

So...it's kinda like 44k from the company BG, right? But it's more versatile because you can put it in the oil or suck it through the PCV valve.

:lol:

Seafoam is a fantastic gunk/varnish solvent in a can that you can pick up at most Pep Boys or Car Quest stores. And actually, now that I'm relocated to Denver from SoCal, I can say for sure that SeaFoam is stocked at the Pep Boys in Wheat Ridge (saw it there yesterday)! There's a great post in the archives here somewhere that shows you how to suck SeaFoam in thru the intake manifold to clean the entire top end of your engine. A little smoky, but worth it if you have a high mileage engine and you want to unstick some gunked up valves, etc. before changing oil the next time.

Do you like seafoam or lucas gas treatment better? I have always liked lucas gas and oil treatment. Mike

How to use SeaFoam :-p

DaveyMac

2002 Accord EX

So...it's kinda like 44k from the company BG, right? But it's more versatile because you can put it in the oil or suck it through the PCV valve.

 

yeah, sounds like a 44k induction service.

Here's the old thread on how to use seafoam, specifically in a subie 2.5L: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=351010#post351010

Here's the old thread on how to use seafoam, specifically in a subie 2.5L: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=351010#post351010

 

I know some of you are probably getting a little tired of the SeaFoam issue. I've read all previous links (every page) and tried the induction process. Yesterday, I poured half the can into the oil crankcase, then poured a third of the remainder thru the PCV valve hose. The idle did fluctuate while I was slowly pouring the chemical. Then after letting the car sit for 5 minutes, I went for a casual 5 mile drive so that the smoking problem would stop. Everything seems fine, no CEL and the engine idles so smooth, I can't see the engine vibrate at idle. (156K on the odo)

 

My question is, should I pour the remainder SeaFoam into the PCV valve without worrying about damaging the engine? I've used 44k to clean the fuel system and injectors and I swear by 44k, so that doesn't need to be done.

I think you'll be fine with the rest going thru the PCV valve, based on my experience.

It's generally advised to do any chemical "top-cleaning" towards the end of an oil change interval because of the deleterious effect on the oil's TBN reserve.

 

**** ******!

Anyone know a Canadian source for Seafoam? We don't have PepBoys and Canadian Tire doesn't seem to carry it.

Firstwagon, how close are you to Seattle? also Autoxone.com may be able to ship it to you (I don't know for sure on that)

 

What I did was remove the line that goes in fron of the Throttle Body, from the area of the Solenoid Control Valve, then with the engine running, I connected a spare vac hose to that spot, and stuck the other end into the open can of SeaFoam. Used just enough throttle to keep the engine running at just over idle (the engine sounds like it is struggling a bit at this point. You want to keep the engine running, but just). When the whole can had been sucked into the intake, I reattached the vac line and let it idle for a minute or two, then rev the piss out of it to clear most of the loosened crap out. . .

 

Sorry I took so long to reply to this thread, I've been tearing into a 15 3/4 valve Legacy engine. (I know they never made an engine with 15 3/4 valves. New exaust valve is on order. . .)

Firstwagon, how close are you to Seattle? also Autoxone.com may be able to ship it to you (I don't know for sure on that)

 

 

Actually I can see the US from the back porch of my house (White Rock, BC). About a 3 minute drive to the border. Crossing it is the bigger problem. Line ups are a pain these days. I used to shop in Bellingham quite often, now it's not really worth the trouble.

 

Still, I'm due for a shopping trip. Need some KYB struts for my car and I can't find them up here either.

Warning:

I used seafoam on my 2.3L Thunderbird and only a few miles later one of my valves stuck and I had to redo the head. Its not proof, but its something to think about.

Firstwagon, how close are you to Seattle? also Autoxone.com may be able to ship it to you (I don't know for sure on that)

 

What I did was remove the line that goes in fron of the Throttle Body, from the area of the Solenoid Control Valve, then with the engine running, I connected a spare vac hose to that spot, and stuck the other end into the open can of SeaFoam. Used just enough throttle to keep the engine running at just over idle (the engine sounds like it is struggling a bit at this point. You want to keep the engine running, but just). When the whole can had been sucked into the intake, I reattached the vac line and let it idle for a minute or two, then rev the piss out of it to clear most of the loosened crap out. . .

 

Sorry I took so long to reply to this thread, I've been tearing into a 15 3/4 valve Legacy engine. (I know they never made an engine with 15 3/4 valves. New exaust valve is on order. . .)

How often should this procedure be done?

How often should this procedure be done?

 

Oh, I'd say. . . every 50K miles or so. Less if you use good gas (100K miles at that point). Really, it is best done when you just get the car and are unsure what has been used for fuel, how the car was driven, and so forth. If you notice that your power dropps of a bit, try it then. I would not use it more frequently than every 50K miles, though. Not enough benefit from it at that point.

 

I have used Seafoam in the oil, in the intake, and in the gas. I left it in the oil quite a while too. . . All I can say on that point is that the engine I did that to is getting 25~26MPG mixed driving, and has more power than the clutch can keep up with. Only do drastic things like that once, though. It is not needed more than that. I did that to be sure that my HLAs were not sticking, and there was no varnishing inside my engine. that was also 50K miles ago, and I'm coming up on a 200K mile teardown of the top end at least. (well the least will be the valve train, oil pump, new seals, and TB)

Oh, I'd say. . . every 50K miles or so. Less if you use good gas (100K miles at that point). Really, it is best done when you just get the car and are unsure what has been used for fuel, how the car was driven, and so forth. If you notice that your power dropps of a bit, try it then. I would not use it more frequently than every 50K miles, though. Not enough benefit from it at that point.

 

I have used Seafoam in the oil, in the intake, and in the gas. I left it in the oil quite a while too. . . All I can say on that point is that the engine I did that to is getting 25~26MPG mixed driving, and has more power than the clutch can keep up with. Only do drastic things like that once, though. It is not needed more than that. I did that to be sure that my HLAs were not sticking, and there was no varnishing inside my engine. that was also 50K miles ago, and I'm coming up on a 200K mile teardown of the top end at least. (well the least will be the valve train, oil pump, new seals, and TB)

Well... OK then. I usually change the plugs, fuel and air filter once a year and put in a can of 44k in the tank, and that has kept my past vehicles happy. In Colorado, the fuel gets dirty because the roads are sanded when it snows and it does eventually wind up in our fuel filters. Later today, I added the rest of the SeaFoam into the PCV hose and I was very embarassed as to the amount of white smoke I was producing.

 

Thanks for the info.

Anyone know a Canadian source for Seafoam? We don't have PepBoys and Canadian Tire doesn't seem to carry it.

 

I did'nt check personnaly but Car Quest is supposed to have it in Québec. Maybe also in B.C.

Just called Carquest and they have it here in Montreal. So there's a good chance they have it nationaly.

Good luck!

In the 'old days' we used to use berrymans B-12 Chemtool in a similar manner folks use the seaFoam. Any idea if they are similar in composition? maybe SeaFoam is safer for O2 sensors or other components? Berrymans would wash away varnish from the carb throat while you were watching it go in.

 

just wondering

 

edit;

any chemists care to compare and contrast the MSDS data?

 

berryman;

http://msds.ehs.cornell.edu/msds/msdsdod/a286/m142960.htm

 

seafoam

http://www.seafoamsales.com/pdf/MSDS_DC14_US.pdf

 

 

Carl