1slow_si Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I bought this 91 loyale 4wd Spfi for 300. not running. I tinkered with it and it ran when it wanted to. It would run for 1/4 mi. or so and loose power. the fuel pump quit working, Now it works but now, no L.E.D. on the ECU. Also no spark. Help me guru's! I'm broke and disgusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Does it crank? cause if it cranks real fast, then you probably have a broken timing belt, and if you have compression on all 4 cylinders, then make sure that you have power to the ignition coil, and that all your plug wires are tight. Also, check inside the disty cap, and make sure that your rotor hasn't become seperate, there is a small screw on the side, and if that walks itself out, the rotor won't spin, and then you have no start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1slow_si Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 It cranks, no timing covers so both belts are fine, rotor screw intact, no spark at plugs. I have voltage on the low voltage side of the coil. nothing coming out. Like I said, The led on the computer used to light up and flash the code for "no codes" but now it doesn't come on at all. Also I think the fuel pump wasn't working because I couldn't hear it when I turned on the key but now it works? Could this be a bad computer? Also, i noticed that the clock doesn't work all the time? Thank for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suba Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Have you checked all the fuses and especially the fusable links? Sounds like a loose connection, i had a fusable link that was loose enough to provide power to the dash but would kill the power when i tried to start the car. I'm not sure on the loyales, but i would think the computer is seperated from the starter power, even in the ignition, so it may crank even with the computer having no power. My GL had a seperate inline fuse for the computer (besides the fusebox) that could also cut power to the computer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I will first say that the ECU is (usually? maybe not all fo them) programmed only to turn the fuel pump relay on when the engine is running, or when the key is turned to "start" so simply turning the key on, normally does not power the fuel pump. beyond that, it is a distinct possibility that the ECU is fried, if no LED lights are coming on. it sounds like you are familiar with the testing procedures, at least enough to have identified the ID code/"no fault" flashes... Fortunately, a replacement shouldn't be to hard to source fromt a JY or on this site, if needs be. When someone says "there are no junkyards near me...." someone else will usually chime in with an ECU for a reasonable amount. this forum is a good place. check back often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 If you have power tot he coil, but not out, then i'd suspect the coil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Have you checked all the fuses and especially the fusable links? ... Yes, is Good Idea to Check that, and Everything Electric within... Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1slow_si Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 Forgot to mention, I already checked all of the fuses under the dash and all the fusible links under the hood. I'm going to work soon, but keep the suggestions coming. I'll check when I get home tonight. Oh, and I was turning the key to the run position when the fuel pump wasn't working. What would cause a ecu to die? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvexplorer Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I will first say that the ECU is (usually? maybe not all fo them) programmed only to turn the fuel pump relay on when the engine is running, or when the key is turned to "start" so simply turning the key on, normally does not power the fuel pump. On my Loyale the fuel pump hums for a second or two when I turn the key to Run not Start. Have you checked the connections around the ECU? Lots of them and if the previous owner did any work on it and didn't get one totally connected it may have come undone. I just had my dash appart to replace the heater core and there are lots of connections all over the place. Wouldn't hurt to check anyway. USMB Rocks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 On my Loyale the fuel pump hums for a second or two when I turn the key to Run not Start. +1 on one and not on the other, i had one that would run when you turn it to on and one that didn't and only came on when you cranked the motor. But now that I think about it it was on an older FI subaru so maybe they changed that when they went to the Loyale name. dont know its a thought. Check the resistor that is mounted to the coil bracket. that was the culprit of two no sparks for me. Not sure what the book says its supposed to be, but it seems when they go bad they have infinite resistance and the good ones have some sort of reading. Also the ignition control module, it the only thing in your distributor, Once again I don't know the proper way of testing it, my book doesn't say, but I just keep a couple of good ones around just in case. And how I test them is have a spare distributor and mount the new ignition control module in it plug it in and turn it by hand, it's just the easy way to check for me. good luck these no start things can suck big time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1slow_si Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 Update.... I finally got around to checking other things out today and I realized I am getting spark at the coil intermittantly. Before I was checking at a plug. Anyhow, It wasn't sparking like it should, only once in a while? Anybody know what causes this? BTW I am reading 10.6 M ohms on the resistor thing so I guess it's good. Can someone elaborate on checking the distributor? Thanks Also the ignition control module, it the only thing in your distributor, Once again I don't know the proper way of testing it, my book doesn't say, but I just keep a couple of good ones around just in case. And how I test them is have a spare distributor and mount the new ignition control module in it plug it in and turn it by hand, it's just the easy way to check for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Check for 12 volt power getting to the ECU. I think fuse #5 and #12 are the ones you need. Check the voltage on the fuses and make sure it is ok. You will notice little slots on the top of the fuses you can check for power at. Power needs to be checked with a meter. You can't just look at the fuses and say things are ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1slow_si Posted December 6, 2006 Author Share Posted December 6, 2006 Update......I finally had a chance tonight to check it out again. I hooked up a test light to the neg. side of coil and cranked. At first I got a slight flicker, then a solid light, then a pulsating light and it started. I shut it off and tried again and had a solid light again. No start. What is causing the weak signal to the coil? Bad Disty, Ign. Amplifier, ECU? :confused: I bought this 91 loyale 4wd Spfi for 300. not running. I tinkered with it and it ran when it wanted to. It would run for 1/4 mi. or so and loose power. the fuel pump quit working, Now it works but now, no L.E.D. on the ECU. Also no spark. Help me guru's! I'm broke and disgusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 I would first suspect the amplifier as the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sister7 Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 I would first suspect the amplifier as the culprit. Me too. Also, the coil bracket serves as a ground so I would make sure it's nice and clean and tightly attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1slow_si Posted December 7, 2006 Author Share Posted December 7, 2006 Me too. Also, the coil bracket serves as a ground so I would make sure it's nice and clean and tightly attached. Thanks for the replies...I will try making a ground for the bracket and see if it helps. If not, I was looking around for a new ignitor and nobody sells them except for the stealership. They sell the coil, bracket with ignitor attached as a package and want $360 for it! I was going to get one from the junkyard and thought that if I did, it would be old and may not last. So, I was thinking about trying to use an ignition module from an early GM car. I have seen it done on many rotaries, probes and mx6's. Has anyone tried this? I'm not sure if the signal from the ecu will drive it. On the rotary it gets the signal directly from the magnet in the disty. Any thoughts? These are wiring diagrams I found for mazda's From what I've read, it should work. BTW The resistor is for the tach signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sister7 Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Personally, I would just stick to the JY unit (get a spare if you're worried about it). You should probably get one anyways to make sure that it is the culprit. I don't know much about them, but it seems possible to get the gain wrong on the amplifier if you're not careful. I'm not sure what consequenses that would have. If you go for the project, let me know if you need any wiring diagrams for the soob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 SPFI uses an optical distributor that only the ECU will understand. The ECU signal to the ignitor might drive the GM HEI unit, but I'm not sure.... The ignitors are tough - they rarely fail unless overheated. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 I was thinking about trying to use an ignition module from an early GM car. I have seen it done on many rotaries, probes and mx6's. Has anyone tried this? I'm not sure if the signal from the ecu will drive it. On the rotary it gets the signal directly from the magnet in the disty. Any thoughts? Nice ignition upgrade but it won't work on a Subaru. Requires a magnetic pick-up type distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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