February 21, 200719 yr Dont worry about that, even 5psi at idle is OK. Thank you... But my EA82 Start to make the "Tick of Death" Lifters Noise if I let Idle much time (Above 7 Minutes) And it Goes when it Revvs up to 3K... So I think that Maybe it Needs a New Oil Pump... I Want one since Long time ago , but for now I don`t have Enough Money...
February 22, 200719 yr Blind ignorance of the true oil pressure might be alright in some cases, but it will eventually catch up with you - maybe not on your current engine, but eventually. "A man that doesn't read great books is no better than a man that can't" -- Mark Twain.GD Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Ignorance. Nobody can take it away from me.
February 22, 200719 yr Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Ignorance. Nobody can take it away from me. I agree; but I question exactly what "ignorance" you speak of.... If I am not mistaken, 90% of the "data" in this thread is only worth about 10% of its face value. The fact of the matter is, these readings off of 15-30 year old low-quality electronic oil gauges are FAR from accurate. So, many of us are partially "ignorant" as to the actual status of our engines... I know for a fact that when GD says "I have x PSI at this state of engine running" it is accurate. He has mechanical oil gauges installed in his vehicles, because he has thrown rods due to lacking good oil pressure readings. (in a car with a digidash, how ironic!! see my first post in this thread) Just about ANY japcar forum on the 'net is RIFE with threads about "Zero oil pressure at idle????" that follow the same theme.. pressure "fine" while running, drops to zero at idle... The gauges suck, the pressure sending units all deserved to be banished to the tenth level of Hell, and even if both are SPOT on all you need is one chunk of mud on your wire terminal and in two months, you've got an awful connection giving you added resistance in the circuit, and TOTALLY throwing your "reading" out of whack. The bottom line is, Lets not ANY of us get our shorts in a twist over what we may think is "fine." State your disagreement, qualify your reasons for disagreeing, and lets not make it personal, or about ignorance, or anything like that. Oh, and BTW.. seriously. Just install a real oil pressure gauge. However you may look at the data supplied by knowing your oil pressure, whether it is a straight indication of your lubrication system, or merely a second degree indicator.. it IS important to be able to trust your equipment, and none of the stock units are worth a damn anymore. *Shiny Happy People Holding Hands.........*
February 22, 200719 yr Yes and no..... pressure is just an indication of whats going on, it really has no relevance in itself. Read that statement a few times to yourself. It's contradictory. It cannot both indicate what's going on, and have no relavance. It makes no difference because pressure is the only reading we have to go off of. Personally if I don't see a reading above 15, I want to know WHY. Just like if I see a temp above half - I want to know WHY. GD
February 22, 200719 yr I know for a fact that when GD says "I have x PSI at this state of engine running" it is accurate. He has mechanical oil gauges installed in his vehicles, because he has thrown rods due to lacking good oil pressure readings. (in a car with a digidash, how ironic!! see my first post in this thread) It also depends on where you take the pressure reading... I have a mechanical oil pressure guage on my VW rabbit -- but it's wired to the oil pressure port on the head where the oil pressure guage is supposed to go. It goes to near zero at hot idle. But, if you plumb it to the outlet of the oil pump, it stays at 15psi at idle. Which is correct?
March 29, 200719 yr FSM specs for oil pump discharge pressure are as follows. Warm idle(550 rpms)= 14psi Warm at 5000rpms= 43 psi That's straight from the horses mouth. Also, a 140 ohm resistor wired in place of sending unit(one end to wire, one to ground) should make the gauge display 57 PSI. If it is off, then your gauge is bad, or at least somewhat erroneus.
March 31, 200719 yr FSM specs for oil pump discharge pressure are as follows. Warm idle(550 rpms)= 14psi Warm at 5000rpms= 43 psi That's straight from the horses mouth. Yes they do state that, but upon closer inspection I think you'll find that: 1 - the speed they give is pump shaft speed 2 - The pressure values are given for a certain flowrate (as all hydraulic pump pressures must be), and they dont actually say that this flowrate corresponds to whats happening when the pump is mounted on an engine. The values are given for testing a pump on a test bench. Anyway, thats what my '83 FSM seems to imply, yours may be different.....
March 31, 200719 yr EA81dc, no big leaks 7 to 10 psi at idle, 20 to 25 psi at 3000rpm, 30 to 40 psi at 6000rpm. EJ22, with over 300,000km, no big leaks 14 to 16 psi at idle, 30 to 35 psi at 3000rpm.
March 31, 200719 yr Yes they do state that, but upon closer inspection I think you'll find that: 1 - the speed they give is pump shaft speed 2 - The pressure values are given for a certain flowrate (as all hydraulic pump pressures must be), and they dont actually say that this flowrate corresponds to whats happening when the pump is mounted on an engine. The values are given for testing a pump on a test bench. Anyway, thats what my '83 FSM seems to imply, yours may be different..... 1. On an EA82, Oil pump shaft RPMs are excactly the same as crankshaft RPM. their respective timing belt pulleys are the same size. 2. I don't know about your 83 EA81 FSM, but my in my 85, 86, 88, and 89 ea82 FSM's there is a flowrate given. 2 ltrs/min @550, 31.2ltrs/min.@ 5000rpmsAlso in 88 and 89 FSMs there is an additional chart specifically titled "Reference pressure with oil pump equipped on the engine is as follows" Conditions: oil temp=212 f cooling fan off 10w-30 Oil Values 2000 RPMs = 14-26 psi 4000 rpms=34-46 psi Note that the values are in a range that is around that of the intitial pump "bench test" chart. It figures they would match the test conditions to running conditions. They would have to in order to gain and publish valid data. Hopefully this helps complete the picture for everyone.
March 31, 200719 yr Yes - EA81 oil pumps drive at 1/2 crank speed as they are driven off the cam. The pumps are similar in design and all other things being equal one would expect the EA82 pump to produce higher pressures. But the EA82 has more demand on it's oiling system with it's hydrualic lifters located farther from the pump, and it has more failure points with it's cam case o-rings and pump mickey-mouse gasket. It's also important to note that the EA82 pumps do need to be replaced just like the EA81 pumps. Many people argue for "just reseal them" but that is not always adequate. The pump pressure degrades over time. All the EA series engines I've owned were capable of 20+ psi hot idle with a decent pump, new seals, and new sending unit or mechanical gauge. Any less than 15 and I start looking for the reason. Having a rod come out the top of the block will do that to a man. :cool: GD
March 31, 200719 yr '82 Subaru EA81 NA, JDM motor, just droped it in, the pump is leak free -- runs a good 50psi, idles at 25psi.
March 31, 200719 yr Many people argue for "just reseal them" but that is not always adequate. The pump pressure degrades over time. All the EA series engines I've owned were capable of 20+ psi hot idle with a decent pump, new seals, and new sending unit or mechanical gauge. Any less than 15 and I start looking for the reason. Having a rod come out the top of the block will do that to a man. :cool: GD It is also very important to note there are three different thickness of rotors for EA82 pumps. The most common is the one stamped "B"( and you thought that meant block, I did 10 years ago) as that is the depth Subaru spec'd for the recess in the block. Variations in the milling process required the use of sizes "A' and "C" in order to match inconsistant blocks. Also so that slight wear can be compensated for by bumping up a size when replacing. Rotor thicknesses: A=13.90 +-.01mm B=13.91 +-.01mm C=13.92 +- .01 mm I wonder how many people actually measure? Use the wrong one and you could end up with low pressure still. or tearing up the pump recess in the block. I'd hate to see a C stuffed in an A. (actaully I have, it's nasty)
April 5, 200718 yr 15-20psi @ 800rpm,(warm). a bit over 45psi at 3200 rpm (speed limit in 5th). 45psi idle, approx. 65psi driving (cold) Never have T.O.D. so I don't know if the oil pump leaks. "91" Loyale EA82 4wd 5spd. about 48,000 mi. on engine. Castrol GTX 10w40. Stock gauges, Temp reads low, Oil press. might also. Gas gauge ACTUALLY runs out on E (very unlike my other Sube's, go all day below E)
April 5, 200718 yr '83 EA81 nonturbo 311,000 miles: ~60 at cold idle ~20-25 at hot idle ~30-40 at cruise Usually Castrol 10w-30 or 10w-40 Genuine Subaru oil filter
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