starsea Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 My 03 OBW has 108000 miles on it so I guess its time to change the timing belt. What parts do I need to order? I know the belt, water pump and tensioner. What about the oil seals on the camshafts and thermostat. I assume the cover have three gaskets and a seal correct? Does the seal need replacing too? Any other parts? Also is this a job that any decent mechanic can do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 reseal the oil pump cam seals main (crank) seal water pump thermostat tensioner idlers timing belt drive belts (you already have them off) Radiator cap The list may seem long, but you wont have to touch anything on that end of the engine for another 108K. By then the engine should be just broken in nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starsea Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 Thanks. True. Looks like $400 worth of parts not counting the belts. I guess the antifreeze needs changing too? One mechanic said about $200 for labor. Does that sound about right? To me it seem like a lot of work but then again it takes me an hour to change my oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Thanks. True. Looks like $400 worth of parts not counting the belts. I guess the antifreeze needs changing too? One mechanic said about $200 for labor. Does that sound about right? To me it seem like a lot of work but then again it takes me an hour to change my oil. Thats not a bad rate. Our local guy charged close to that on mom's 98 a few years back. And he knows these things inside out. Just comes down to whether or not you trust your motor's life to him or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starsea Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 I've heard he a good mechanic but he's no Subaru expert. I would feel better if he was. Anyone know of any Subaru doctors in South Carolina? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 What part are you in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starsea Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 What part are you in? Near Columbia. Go to Virginia and WV to go caving every now and then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 i would rather have a mechanic that i trust then a no name "Subaru" specialists. a subaru timing belt isn't that hard, i'd have him do it, there's nothing tricky about it. $200 labor does seem really sweet deal. for your information the dealers where i live charge $699 for a timing belt change - that includes ONLY the timing belt. so they're charging $600+ for an hour or two worth of work...just the timing belt. so yeah, $200 is a steal. the geared sprocket pulley (the only one with teeth of the timing components), usually is the noisiest pulley of them all and tends to "wear out" first. i think i've always replaced that one at least when doing EJ22 and EJ25 timing belts. in addition to nippers list you'll want to replace the cam o-rings. on the EJ stuff i see more seapage (wetness) there than on the actual seals. there are two on the front cams and i think there's a rear on the passengers side as well...i think all EJ's have that o-ring (it's the same part number as the front) if so, that one is super easy to replace. 2 10mm bolts and that's it. on the cam seals you can visually look and decide if you want to replace them or not. the cam sprocket bolts are very tricky to remove if you don't have a good assortment of tools and such to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starsea Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 I see the camshaft oil seals but not the o rings. Where do they go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 the cam seal is pressed into the cam "cap", it's a housing that bolts to the engine, holds the cam seal, the cam shaft passes through it and the cam sprocket bolts to the cam. it's about 2 inches 'high' so to speak. between this cam cap and the engine is an o-ring. they are brittle and hard as a rock by now typically. i see more seapage behind these than the cam seals on EJ motors. remove the cap sprocket on the drivers side, the rear timing cover and you'll have access to 3 10mm bolts that hold the cam cap to the engine. remove those to access the oring. on the rear passengers side there's a rear cam cap as well, remove 2 10mm bolts to remove that cap and replace the o-ring. that one is really easy. other than the air intake tube, there's nothing to remove to replace that one, super easy. same part number as the front one. i've never actually replaced that rear passengers side one on an EJ25 though that i can think of, only on EJ22's...but i think they're still there on the EJ25 as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Hi starsea. Just to clarify, you don't have an H6 right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikevan10 Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 He is going to need a special tool to keep the crankshaft from turning when he loosens or tightens the crank pulley bolt isn't he? Mike V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 A big chain wrench will hold the crank sprocket for tightenting. It can also be used for loosening or the breaker bar starter bump method works too. You can get the official holder from subaru.spx.com but I think it's about $100. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 the crank pulley is the easy part - insert a heavy duty extension or screw driver (remember - heavy duty and dont' let it fall down) into the flex plate through the bellhousing access hole (remove the rubber plug for it under the throttle body/intake hose). this is for an automatic. if it's a manual, put it in gear and have someone press the brake pedal. the hard part is the cam sprocket bolts, they are rather difficult to get off. i have a large and very heavy cast iron tractor part that works well to just jam it through the holes in the cam sprocket while i back the bolt off. get creative with what you have, or remove the valve cover and put a wrench on the cam as it has a square part to it. or buy the expensive tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starsea Posted March 22, 2007 Author Share Posted March 22, 2007 Hi starsea. Just to clarify, you don't have an H6 right? Right, I have a 4 cyl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starsea Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 I'm back in town finally. This is the list I've come up with. Still don't see any O rings for the camshaft cap but I guess they are up under the camshaft cap. They caps don't come off during the timing belt change do they? The holding tool for the right side looks like something I can make. For the left side it looks like I can use two vice grips taped together. What did you all do about it? Also I didn't see a water pump for the Outback, is the Legacy one the same one? https://www.subarugenuineparts.com Description Total Cost Timing belt $62.18 Idler pulley $54.86 Idler pulley $59.82 upper and lower Tensioner $105.15 Front crank seal $5.87 Water pump, $84.14 legacy, 2.5l Thermostat $10.94 Total: $382.96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 the cam o-rings don't come off for a timing belt change. if the cam seals, crank seal or cam oring areas appear wet, then it's a good idea to replace them. not entirely necessary, but i always do. if you don't, you're expecting them not to start leaking anytime during the next 100,000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsance Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 I will note that removing the crank pulley and cam sprocket bolts is exceptionally easy with an impact wrench. However, to get enough room, I did have to take out the radiator, and on the crank pulley I needed to unbolt the AC condenser and swing it out of the way. Still, if you have one, use it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthenium Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 reseal the oil pumpcam seals main (crank) seal water pump thermostat tensioner idlers timing belt drive belts (you already have them off) Radiator cap The list may seem long, but you wont have to touch anything on that end of the engine for another 108K. By then the engine should be just broken in nipper Would this list be correct for a '95 Outback as well? I just got one, and the seller doesn't remember ever changing it...150K, so I'm ASSUMING it's the original one. After tires and fluids, it's next on the list. Fat Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackusjunkus Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Yea...its the exact same for a 95 engine...wish I'd know about those cam O-rings tho...grrrrr. I would consider valve cover gaskets too...at that age and miles... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Yes that list should do you good. Your interval though of course is 60k miles on that engine, not 105k. Your '95 2.2L is non-interference. And yes on that engine there are cam o-rings. The RH on is at the DE (drive end) of the engine and can be done easily without touching the timing belt of anything. I have some pics if any interest. Geared/toothed idler is most likely to be the troublesome one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 for 60 k intervals that list of parts other then timing belt should be done at every 120K nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 I have some pics if any interest. Ooops! That reminds me that I need to change the RH (passenger's side) o-ring. Would really appreciate seeing your pics, porcupine. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Sure, I'll post them tonight after I get home from work (on lunch now). They're from a '94 2.2L. It's really easy; I mean there are just two bolts in there and then you pull the cap out and put the new o-ring on. I have the o-ring part # and size too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Thanks, porc. No rush. I actually have the o-ring--ordered it with some other stuff a few weeks ago. But I have to finish digging up the yard to replace our sewer line before my wife will let me play with the Subaru again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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