bicycle_ben Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 (edited) i want to put some driving off road lights on top of my little beast but im worried that they will suck so much power the alternator will stall my 65 pony power motor... anyone know if a pair of 130 watt lights would over power a stock 81 wagon? Edited February 18, 2009 by bicycle_ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
()__1337_CRAYOLA__()> Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 your good.... but if it just so happens they do take your alternator out spring for the lifetime warrenty one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicycle_ben Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 cool, now i just have to find lights i want for the right price. i want lights that go out about 2x the distance my stock high beams go. correct me if im wrong: lights go "fog" "low beam" "high beam" "driving" and "long range". i dont want stupid fog lights or anything like that, i want something that would kill a vampire at 150 yards. i cant afford to put up 12 pencil beams like the racing guys use so i think ill have to settle for a pair of "driving" lights for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 ok so i was reading ur post and thought here you go just some info/pics maby you can PM some posters about there lights http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95663&highlight=road+lights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 ...i dont want stupid fog lights or anything like that, i want something that would kill a vampire at 150 yards. ... Then, go H.I.D. Those H.I.D. will Suck very Less Power than Halogens, while Bring Far more Power Output. I Have H.I.D. in Stock Headlamps, but those are Special with Low and Hight Beams moving Bulb, to avoid Blind the incoming Traffic; but there are H.I.D. Shaped like Fog Lamps that can be installed wherever you may Want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Id love to do that too but his' cost so much, there coming down in price now cause the chinese are cranking them out, they are awsome though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 your good.... but if it just so happens they do take your alternator out spring for the lifetime warrenty one That would also be a good time to remove your external voltage regulator and switch to an internally regulated alternator. Renaissanceman did the write up (see link). It's super easy. You might also consider a higher amp alt. while you are at it. I put a 100 amp GM in my otherwise stock '81 hatch and it's awesome. I probably don't live too far from you if you would want some help or would like to check out the set-up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47847&highlight=alternator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicycle_ben Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 mmm i just might spring for a spiffy new alternator when i can afford some off road lights - then i could have the sun its self strapped to the roof rack for light AND run a stereo(which i dont currently have either) i decided to put in a pair of $20 head lights instead of buying a set of $150 off road lights. to make my self feel better i also got a set of new wiper blades which means i can actually see when i go up snow boarding ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 cool, now i just have to find lights i want for the right price. i want lights that go out about 2x the distance my stock high beams go. correct me if im wrong: lights go "fog" "low beam" "high beam" "driving" and "long range". i dont want stupid fog lights or anything like that, i want something that would kill a vampire at 150 yards. i cant afford to put up 12 pencil beams like the racing guys use so i think ill have to settle for a pair of "driving" lights for now Why not try these "Hella comet 500s 6" round" They shoot pretty far on mine. and they were only $50 at wal-mart. I got pics in my Profile if you wanna see'em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 hella 500's with some 80watt bulbs. ive put a pair on almost every car ive had and always loved them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 (edited) I had 570 watts on my 1978 1600 wagon. 4) 55/60 W Hi / Lo headlights, + 2 55W fog lamps. I had a switch panel to select how many of the filaments were on - singel or dual low beam, all the way up to all 8 for hi beam. I built an external rectifier box for the alternator. Never had a problem after that. The stock regulator worked fine - it was before the regulator was part of the alternator. Edit - typed the year wrong. Edited February 20, 2009 by DaveT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 wow, I'm such a slacker, i've been perfectly happy with some wal-mart cheapies, 55 watt h4's... i just took my time to aim them really well and not only fill the shadows left 'under' the high beams but off to the sides to show me the ditches and the deer coming out of the fields mmm i suppose it helped i took the time to wire a relay and get the most out of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 (edited) hella 500's with some 80watt bulbs. ive put a pair on almost every car ive had and always loved them. +1!! Not to mention the Nokya artic white 100/120w headlights! Edited February 20, 2009 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 +1!! Not to mention the Nokya artic white 100/120w headlights! screw wal mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88RxTuner Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 (edited) Hey, wal-mart rocks!! lol I got into wheeling a long, long time ago, but didnt get into subarus till about 5 years ago... So, when my stock alternator went to crap, I figured, hell.. the A/C doesnt work anyway, why not put something where the compressor goes? And I ended up installing a 180amp GM alt (for an ambulance) in place of the A/C compressor... with a little bit of making my own brackets, it works just fine..I figure I should be able to run 8-10 130watt lamps with this NO problem, which is far more than I currently have (2 cheap wal-mart specials...) In my experience, if you are running less than about 400 total watts, the stock alt. should be able to keep up with it, provided you have a decent battery... On time VS off time, if you drive it during the day and charge the battery with a low draw, and wheel it at night (my suspicion is that this is why you want LIGHTS, for the night runs...) on the battery, you shouldnt have any problem with the stock alt... Keep in mind, this is TOTAL watts. You go and throw 6 150watt DayLighters at it, it's not gonna work right... but your stock headlamps and up to about 2-3 pairs of the 55W wal-mart specials should work fine... PROVIDED that you keep you battery maintained and drive it during the daytime with no/little load to keep the battery charged up. If you are planning on adding more than 200W to the factory charging system, it WILL be worth the time and money to look into a higher-amp charging system, the gains in the long run with NOT having to replace alternators every 6 months will be well worth spending the extra time and money fitting and fabricating a HI-Amp alternator to suit your car... Just my .02..... 88RxTuner Edited February 20, 2009 by 88RxTuner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 yeah what he said just remember watts/volts = amps for example; 4 x 55 watt h4, (220 watts)/12 volts = 18.3 amps so choose your wire and fuses accordingly use relay(s) too and if worse comes to worse, you can always put a trickle charger on your car when you're not using it to keep the battery in top health Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88RxTuner Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Ummmm..... +1 on relay(s)... forgot to mention that bit on my last post... Keep in mind, anytime you add a load to the stock electrical system, unless you're coming directly off the battery itself, it could draw power from another essential system circut... So do like he says, and use relays!!!! 88RxTuner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamCF Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 I ran some 100W "KC knock offs" for about a year with the stock 55 amp in my GL. It never seemed to have much of a problem. The heater fan dropped the volt meter in the dash further than the lights, Proly not so accurate these days but I'm used to where it should be and it gives me an idea of whats going on. I recently upgraded the alt to a 100 amp GM unit though. (plenty of info on it around here) Now I can kick everything on high. Wipers, all the lights, heat, rear aux lights, rear heat, (fan mounted in back for defrost as the window lines kicked it long ago) stock tape deck cranked. No problem. And the chances I'll have all that on at once in the real world is slim to none. Big thing is run new lights from the battery. Good wire, fuse, relay. Should be good. That way you KNOW all the wiring is up to it. Also (something that is on my list) as many connections in the car as you can.... check, clean, ect. Grounds and everything. I always read that it seems to help some on our older Soobs. Good luck, and enjoy the wattage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 (edited) Only thing with my Hellas was, the wiring diogram was really dumb. the kit came with a relay, but the way the wires were, you had to hook them to your highbeams (Rollseyes) There was like no other way to use that relay (My dad hook them in, he knows this stuff well) I'm getting there in "Wiring crap in" Knolege lol. but yes, there is a fuse at least. he just ran them basicly the same way he did the ones in front of the grill. so I don't have a relay, I do notice a little drop in volts (Very little) but if your driving (RPMs not at idel) the juice comes back. I wanted to do the 100amp GM alt, but now I have a brand new alt (Reman Subaru) But I totaly agree on relays and fuses. -Tom Edited February 20, 2009 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobcob Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Hella 500's are available on eGay for $40 with free shipping if you keep an eye out!! :banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobcob Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 so I don't have a relay If'n ya have them wired up right now it's a simple matter of adding another wire or 2 in and you've got your relay working... Take the +ve wire that comes from your switch, and connect it to terminal 86 on the relay. Take a wire direct from your battery (FUSED) and connect that to terminal 30 Hook your lights to terminal 87 Get a short piece of wire, about 4" long, put a round crimp terminal on that one (so you can put a screw through the hole and ground it to the body etc.) and a female spade terminal on the other end. Connect that last wire to terminal 85, put a screw through the ring terminal on the other end and use that screw to mount the relay someplace handy... See Below... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 If you do the GM alt swap I would recommend modifying the alt. bracket instead of grinding the ears of the alt. case. It is a lot more grinding than I thought it would be, and that can't be good for the alt. internals. On the first alt. I did that with, the regulator went out after 6 months. The second one is fine so far, but I can't just go down to the parts store, exchange it, and bolt it in. Next time I need a new alt. I plan on modding the bracket. I chose the GM model over the Nissan or XT6 because I figured it is probably more likely to be stocked in most parts stores. I like to do most of my camping in BFEO (BF Eastern Oregon), and if the alt. went out in the rurals, I would most likely find a quick replacement and thank myself for modding the bracket as I am bolting it in and driving away. If you don't have access to a welder let me know, mine is very portable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 I have 2 hella 500's with 130 watt bulbs on my roofrack and two light force 6 inch with 75 watt bulbs in them along with my stock head lights. 500 watt mono amp, 350 watt amp for the front speakers and my heater running on high constantly and I have had 0 problems with my 1984 Brat alternator. I say go for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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