Ok, I did a search for this but didnt find anything useful for my specific problem.

 

Car - 88 GL wagon, DR 4wd, 5 speed...

Problem - Drivers window does not work at all. Also, no power door locks either....

 

Have checked - Replaced the relay unit under passenger seat (all windows quit working at one point.

Fuse is good, all windows but the drivers window work fine right now...pulled the switch apart and cleaned the contacts (didnt look that bad, but cleaned em anyway) re-lubed the little roller wheels, etc...put it back together, still no drivers window.

Unplugged the motor and ran jumper wires direct from battery to test the motor...it works fine, goes up, goes down. but will not work from door switch.

 

There is full power going to the switch module - tested with multimeter. As I said, everything BUT the drivers window works fine.

When operating the switch, it should show ? volts on a meter? currently it only shows about .04 volts in either direction - this isnt near enough right?

Any suggestions on fixing this would be GREATLY appreciated. Would also consider putting in a seperate switch for this window if need be....just need to know how to wire the darn thing.

 

Thanks in advance

i'd change the window switch just to see. but like mine the main power wire had kinked and when the door was open the window would work and when it was closed it wouldn't then it finally stopped working totally if thats any help?

You said the voltage at the switch when operating is .04. Whats the voltage to the switch from the module? Maybe a bad connection in between? If not, its most likely the switch. If you need one send me a PM or email.

Rob

Ruby's window had the same problem. I ended up just wiring up a separate switch for that window.

Had a similar problem on an XT6. After I unplugged and reconnected the main plug going to the door panel it started working again. So, I guess it could be dirty/corroded pins in the connectors.

Have tried several switches in this darn thing with the same results. At wits end right now....(read - I GIVE UP! :-p )

 

Snowman - How did you run the wires when you added in the seperate switch?????? And what type of switch did you use?

 

We need to get this darn thing operational soon - the other half wants to be driving it instead of the gas hog pickup truck, but he really would like the window to work somehow! Hard to hit up micky D's when the window dont work!!

my car did the same thing.....it was bad wires in the door jam..... I snipped the ground wire in the door panel and ran the new wire through the door jam and then grounded it

Unplugged the motor and ran jumper wires direct from battery to test the motor...it works fine, goes up, goes down. but will not work from door switch.

 

There is full power going to the switch module - tested with multimeter. [/b]

 

 

The switch would be my first guess, but I wouldn't rule out the wiring between the switch and window motor. The wiring in your door is subject to moisture and harsh conditions.

 

If you have any doubts, run a continuity test between the connectors at the switch and window motor. If you go to the yard for the switch, may as well grab the section of wiring to the motor while you are at it.

 

good luck, John

John - I cant "go to the yard" for anything around here...none of the so called junkyards around here have anything old enough! I do have two parts cars sitting in MY yard however.

 

At this poing we just need to get the darn window working and are looking at putting in aftermarket switch to run that window.

However, not quite sure how to go about it. I am thinking I would want a switch that is "momentary on/off/momentary on" (have to hold it in either "on" position and automatically goes back to the off position when released) ....

 

Just not quite sure how to run the wires on this....wouldnt I need to ground it somehow?

 

Snowman!!! HELP!!! you have done this, right?

BUmp to the top...got the same problem and we got a heat wave here in MA...I gotta get my window workin!

 

Here's my deal-tried a whole separate window switch rump roast'y, still no luck. The driver's door window switches don't work for ANY of the windows. The other three doors work fine when their own switch is used. So the chances of it being the motor is slim

 

I looked in the door jab, played with the wiring going through but there didn't seem to be anything out of the ordinary, and messing with it made no change.

 

I'm all for wiring a new switch if need be, but this can't be that hard to fix. Please help us

4by4 since you give no vehicle

I'll take a stab at it being your AMC Eagle??

 

All seriousness aside

are you aware of the fact that the driver's side window

and only the driverside window is controlled through a control unit?

This is how it accomplishes the power up/down feature.

You may want to try a boneyard model of this unit.

 

Where is it mounted ?? well in an Eagle it's.....Try under the pass seat

Originally posted by Skip

4by4 since you give no vehicle

I'll take a stab at it being your AMC Eagle??

 

All seriousness aside

are you aware of the fact that the driver's side window

and only the driverside window is controlled through a control unit?

This is how it accomplishes the power up/down feature.

You may want to try a boneyard model of this unit.

 

Where it is mounted well in an Eagle it's.....

 

Hahaha, yeah, me and my Eagle

 

I have an 89 GL waggy. the driver's side window alone is controlled by a control unit? Where is this control unit, how much would a "new" used one run me, how easy is it to install?

bump! help me out guys, its 60 degrees!!

three words

voltage drop test

 

with every thing hooked up the circit will drop all the voltage somewhere. preferably at the motor.

a simple example of a voltage drop test is a motor and a switch. the motor will not run. when you place your meter leads across the switch contacts in the on position you see 5V then do the same at the motor and you see 7v across the motor. 5v across the switch indicates that it has high resistance and is using up a good portion of the avl. voltage. this could apply to a connection, moduel, whatever. the sum of all voltage drops will equal supply voltage.

 

rule of thumb connections and switches should not drop more than .2v and .5v respectivly. thats the max. any more is a problem.

 

test voltages across components and find out who is holding things up. the motor should be the only one allowed to drop a big chunk(12v) of voltage.

 

I suck at explaining stuff and have poor writing skills so if you dont get what I am saying check this

http://www.cnnw.net/~fourty/voltdroptest.htm

4B:

 

Russ describes a good way to troubleshoot the circuit, but my guess is that you are looking for a quick and dirty fix without a lesson in theory.

 

But first a little more "practical" theory...

 

If you umplug the connector at the drivers door motor and apply juice (from a battery charger, 12v power source, car's battery etc), the window will move either "up" or "down". If you reverse polarity, the window will do the opposite (assuming the motor is good).

 

A single switch (and relay) will accomplish this same feat. Since this is happening at 3 of the four windows already, you can assume that you have 3 good motors, 3 good switches and a good relay.

 

Again, the master switch is highly suspect - especially if it has the child-proof locking feature. The master switch itself is a universal type design found in many makes, and can probably be found at places like Auto Zone. Take your old switch in too. If you are extremely lucky, there might be someone behind the counter who can test it for you.

 

The wiring to the switch cannot be ruled out either, and if this the case, it will be a little more complex.

 

Try testing the drivers door motor, and maybe replace the switch, then report back...

 

good luck, John

You have Power Windows? You are living in the lap of luxury! My 86 GL wagon has power nothin'. No PW, PDL, PS, turbo, or 4wd, etc. Wait, it's an automatic, so it shifts for me. The only concession to luxury is AC, and a radio (which is the original factory unit).

 

Seriously now, being so new to Subaru, I didn't realize my wagon is pretty much a stripped machine. I like it just as well. Now, if I could just have the luxury of all my 90 hp...

 

Dan