August 19, 200916 yr ok so am i the only one who thinks subaru dropped the ball on the ea82 caliper idea? I meen damn it usualy takes me about 30 min to do a break job just the pads i have spent 30 min on each side winding the stupid pistions in. UUHUHGG END RANT. Rob.
August 19, 200916 yr no this system is actualy very common. similar is used on a lot of rear brakes. i think it was harder to repair the brakes on my jeep, theres no room for fingers. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/erty0/mike%20crap/IMG_2158.jpg
August 19, 200916 yr ya I had a heck of a time on my GL trying to twist them in. I think a front brake job took hours
August 19, 200916 yr Takes me longer to turn in the stuped pistons than anything else doing brakes on these cars. I just light up a smoke and grab the needle nose plires and start turning away. They'll get where they need to be eventually
August 19, 200916 yr Just an idea... I was told that one of the old sprinkler valve wrenches fits the grooves and will turn the caliper down you could just grind off the end and attach it to a high torque drill... cuts down on the time spent hand cranking. If its too tight for a full size drill a right angle drill might work. My brother in law told me that... cant say that I have tried it myself. But might be worth a shot.
August 20, 200916 yr If you completely remove the bleeder screw they thread right in without much effort. Messy, but less frustration. I just use a pair of needle nose pliers and they go right in *almost* every time. I have run across a few that were broken and wouldn't thread in at all..... but that's another problem at that point. GD
August 20, 200916 yr I just have the correct tool to do this. Cost me like $160 or so on the Snap-On truck and comes with 8 different adapters to do random cars (like Ford Tarus, Mazda 3, etc.)
August 20, 200916 yr I think its a 21mm open end wrench and a set of vise grips is what I use it seems to go pretty good for me..................... Jeff
August 20, 200916 yr I made a little tool for my cordless drill, it kinda works, but I welded it off-center, so you have to "get in the groove" before it makes it easier, cuz otherwise its more of a pain than doing it manually. I have to make a new one... -Bill
August 20, 200916 yr o yea sounds like fun im getting ready to do the breaks on mine for the first time and in figured they were push in. but the screw pistons are common on rear brakes as my mr2 has them. this is the tool that us mr2 guys use im not sure if it will fit the subaru but when i get to changing out the brakes ill let yall know http://www.oem-tools.com/product_info.php?products_id=1369
August 20, 200916 yr I've seen the tool at Northern tool and the like. just a little square piece with a different combination of studs sticking out of each of the sides, and a 3/8s square, so it can be used as a socket. and yea, my 200SX rear calipers have that too. +1 for bleeder screw removal.
August 20, 200916 yr Can you not just use a c-clamp to compress the piston? I haven't done EA82 brakes, but that's the way I learned to do it. . . .
August 20, 200916 yr http://www.oem-tools.com/product_info.php?products_id=1369 That's what I use. It works... as long as it doesn't slip. New/reman calipers/pistons might fix the slippage. Can you not just use a c-clamp to compress the piston? I haven't done EA82 brakes, but that's the way I learned to do it. . . . No. These Subaru front calipers are connected to the E-brake and need to be screwed back in. They will not compress with a clamp. The rear calipers will work with a disc brake clamp (or c-clamp).
August 20, 200916 yr Author yeah i GOT R DUN took forever but i called my buddy he went to perry tech and when buying tools he just happend to get the combo piston tool after that it was a little faster.
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