The Dude Abides Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Ok so in an atempt to be cool and work on my car today i decided to change out my exhaust manifold gaskets. Ill let you guys take it from here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 rusted? did you pbblast? wrong gaskets ordered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 (edited) Oh no i got it apart. Edited September 22, 2009 by The Dude Abides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 hmmm.. stripped out the threads in the heads, so now you have to tap them larger, or heli-coil them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 hmmm.. stripped out the threads in the heads, so now you have to tap them larger, or heli-coil them.... WOW mick its like you were there or something. Yep i was careful i knew that dam aluminum would strip easy. They came out sooooo easy it wasnt even funny. Got everything lined up nice and easy. I get in 3 bolts but the 4th one wont go back in. I check i try i try i check nothing. I check and the thread got alittle messed up on the bolt so i chase them with a nut. Everything looks good, i try agai and this time it threads. As im tightening it up i realize there is no end to the tightening. I know what this means and shout out a barage swears im sure the neighbors didnt appreciate. The ONLY good news out of this is that its no louder then it was with bad old gaskets. Now my question is to my local suby bretheran. Ive got the drill and tap set but i dont know how much to do to it. Seems like it doesnt take much to ruin them. Any Advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Try the tap alone first. Maybe there's enough at the end of the hole to allow a temp. fix. Find a little longer bolt (10x1.25) than you actually need. After you run the tap in a couple times, see if the bolt will grab any threads at the end of the hole. If it will,just add a couple lock washers on the bolt and use it. I just did this very exact thing a couple weeks ago. It still needs repaired,but it bought me some time and I'm not ruining my new gaskests with a exhust leak. I didn't have a tap,thou. I ground a couple flutes into a used head bolt to chase the threads with. The Kit at the auto parts store was $30:eek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 I have the correct metric tap, made into a bottoming tap, so you can eke out as many threads as possible from the hole... otherwise, you may want to go with the SAE tap that works for the hole size you have, and get some new studs..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Just tap it over to 7/16x20. You can use a bolt for that one stud if you choose although it's better if you get some all-thread and make a stud for it. It's really no trouble at all. I can see how it's frustrating though if you don't have the time, money, or resources to conquer it quickly. Buy two taps in the 7/16x20 variety. Grind the tapered end off one of them to make a "bottoming tap". Tap it with the virgin tap, then the bottoming tap to get the last few threads. Cut a suitible length of all-thread, taper the cut ends to dress the threads and install. Easy as cake! GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 WOW mick its like you were there or something. been there before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 I havent taken the time to really look at my delema. I think i will consult my mechanic buddy at work to help me asses the situation. Get a good light on there and see how bad it is. Any one know where i can get another exhaust stud. I suppose when i look things over ill be better prepaired. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Just follow my directions and you'll be fine. Get the two taps, and some all-thread and you'll be golden. The whole process takes about 15 minutes. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 Buy the way, i couldnt resist. I did fire it up with the exhaust not hooked up to the engine. Awsome is the only word to describe it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Buy the way, i couldnt resist. I did fire it up with the exhaust not hooked up to the engine. Awsome is the only word to describe it. Set off any car alarms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Funny thing happened to me just last weekend. I had just one stud come loose and only prepared for a retap on one. Funny, as I put it back together, I found two more had stripped just under gentle wrenching. Back to the store. It was gonna take a hour but it turned into a few more after having to go back and get more studs and start the process all over again. Glad to have had a second car. If ones going .......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Just follow my directions and you'll be fine. Get the two taps, and some all-thread and you'll be golden. The whole process takes about 15 minutes. GD He's right. This is one of the easier things to fix on a Sube. You can even find 7/16 studs at alot of autoparts stores so you don't even need to cut all-thread. Just use oil and run the tap in. No need to drill the hole as the stripped out hole is already perfect size for a 7/16 tap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Funny thing happened to me just last weekend. I had just one stud come loose and only prepared for a retap on one. Funny' date=' as I put it back together, I found two more had stripped just under gentle wrenching. Back to the store. It was gonna take a hour but it turned into a few more after having to go back and get more studs and start the process all over again. Glad to have had a second car. If ones going ..........[/quote'] Yeah, It's not a bad Idea to just buy 4, 7/16 studs and tap new threads for all of em. Use red locktite on the studs when installed to the heads and you shouldn't ever have a problem again, even if the exhaust is unbolted many more times. * note that if you are tapping out an undamaged hole, you should then use a drill bit correct for the 7/16 tap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 been there before I think we all have!!! It's very common with these cars:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Just tap it over to 7/16x20. You can use a bolt for that one stud if you choose although it's better if you get some all-thread and make a stud for it. It's really no trouble at all. I can see how it's frustrating though if you don't have the time, money, or resources to conquer it quickly. Buy two taps in the 7/16x20 variety. Grind the tapered end off one of them to make a "bottoming tap". Tap it with the virgin tap, then the bottoming tap to get the last few threads. Cut a suitible length of all-thread, taper the cut ends to dress the threads and install. Easy as cake! GD I inherited a set of pre wanked holes on my second engine. I'm using bolts now, with lock washers. Question; why would the stud be better? (as in, should I convert it back?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) I inherited a set of pre wanked holes on my second engine. I'm using bolts now, with lock washers. Question; why would the stud be better? (as in, should I convert it back?) Studs go all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole in the head - making them stronger and less prone to pulling the threads out of the aluminium - with a bolt you don't have full thread engagement because you can't tighten the header down if you do. More thread engagement = stronger. They also allow you to remove/install the header many times without worrying about the aluminium threads. It's really all about protecting the aluminium from damage and using studs maximizes the safety factor. GD Edited September 1, 2009 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 I see. Extremely logical. In this case, it got pretty involved and I replaced the awful bolts that were in it and cut new bolts to the exact (longest) length possible. I used a grip gauge and factored in lock washers and the thickness of the exhaust flange... I'm confident I have full thread engagement. That being said, I will be pulling my engine in the near future and while it's out it makes sense to convert it back to a stud - thanks for explaining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 Someone posted this in another thread. Could i use this setup to replace the exhaust studs. Loctight the studs then antisieze the other side. Said these were for a small block chevy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 It's really very simple if you follow my directions. Go get a peice of all-thread, cut yourself 4 studs, tap out the holes in the heads and have a nice day. This can all be done with hand tools - hacksaw and a file for the studs and a tap+crescent wrench for the heads. There is no need to get fancy, and there is no need to overthink it. Just DO IT and then have a beer. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 It's really very simple if you follow my directions. Go get a peice of all-thread, cut yourself 4 studs, tap out the holes in the heads and have a nice day. This can all be done with hand tools - hacksaw and a file for the studs and a tap+crescent wrench for the heads. There is no need to get fancy, and there is no need to overthink it. Just DO IT and then have a beer. GD Ok Gd I trust you but couple questions. 1. How do i thread the allthread into the new hole without damageing the threads on the new studs. 2. Wont i have some nasty burs on my allthread if i cut it. 3. How long of a stud do i need to cut to get maximum penitration Im asumeing if i tap it to 7/16 i need to get 7/16 allthread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 Also GD sorry if im frustrating you. I need ask and re ask and look for the easiest and quickest solutions. My car cant be down long, and here in iowa we run out of warm weekends quick this time of year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Ok Gd I trust you but couple questions. 1. How do i thread the allthread into the new hole without damageing the threads on the new studs. It should thread in by hand if you have done your job properly with the tap. If it's difficult, then you take two nuts, lock them together on the end, and use that to thread it in. It's called "double nutting", and is the common way to install/remove studs if you don't have access to a stud remover. 2. Wont i have some nasty burs on my allthread if i cut it. That's what the file/grinder is for. You taper the edges of the cut end at about a 45 degree angle to "feather" the threads. 3. How long of a stud do i need to cut to get maximum penitration Pull the drinking straw from your McD's cup and measure for yourself! (hint - use a sharpie!) Im asumeing if i tap it to 7/16 i need to get 7/16 allthread. Yes - do everything in 7/16x20 (the "20" part is the TPI, or "Threads Per Inch"). This isn't rocket science. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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