August 31, 200916 yr Ok so in an atempt to be cool and work on my car today i decided to change out my exhaust manifold gaskets. Ill let you guys take it from here.
August 31, 200916 yr hmmm.. stripped out the threads in the heads, so now you have to tap them larger, or heli-coil them....
August 31, 200916 yr Author hmmm.. stripped out the threads in the heads, so now you have to tap them larger, or heli-coil them.... WOW mick its like you were there or something. Yep i was careful i knew that dam aluminum would strip easy. They came out sooooo easy it wasnt even funny. Got everything lined up nice and easy. I get in 3 bolts but the 4th one wont go back in. I check i try i try i check nothing. I check and the thread got alittle messed up on the bolt so i chase them with a nut. Everything looks good, i try agai and this time it threads. As im tightening it up i realize there is no end to the tightening. I know what this means and shout out a barage swears im sure the neighbors didnt appreciate. The ONLY good news out of this is that its no louder then it was with bad old gaskets. Now my question is to my local suby bretheran. Ive got the drill and tap set but i dont know how much to do to it. Seems like it doesnt take much to ruin them. Any Advise.
August 31, 200916 yr Try the tap alone first. Maybe there's enough at the end of the hole to allow a temp. fix. Find a little longer bolt (10x1.25) than you actually need. After you run the tap in a couple times, see if the bolt will grab any threads at the end of the hole. If it will,just add a couple lock washers on the bolt and use it. I just did this very exact thing a couple weeks ago. It still needs repaired,but it bought me some time and I'm not ruining my new gaskests with a exhust leak. I didn't have a tap,thou. I ground a couple flutes into a used head bolt to chase the threads with. The Kit at the auto parts store was $30:eek:
August 31, 200916 yr I have the correct metric tap, made into a bottoming tap, so you can eke out as many threads as possible from the hole... otherwise, you may want to go with the SAE tap that works for the hole size you have, and get some new studs.....
August 31, 200916 yr Just tap it over to 7/16x20. You can use a bolt for that one stud if you choose although it's better if you get some all-thread and make a stud for it. It's really no trouble at all. I can see how it's frustrating though if you don't have the time, money, or resources to conquer it quickly. Buy two taps in the 7/16x20 variety. Grind the tapered end off one of them to make a "bottoming tap". Tap it with the virgin tap, then the bottoming tap to get the last few threads. Cut a suitible length of all-thread, taper the cut ends to dress the threads and install. Easy as cake! GD
August 31, 200916 yr Author I havent taken the time to really look at my delema. I think i will consult my mechanic buddy at work to help me asses the situation. Get a good light on there and see how bad it is. Any one know where i can get another exhaust stud. I suppose when i look things over ill be better prepaired. Ben
August 31, 200916 yr Just follow my directions and you'll be fine. Get the two taps, and some all-thread and you'll be golden. The whole process takes about 15 minutes. GD
August 31, 200916 yr Author Buy the way, i couldnt resist. I did fire it up with the exhaust not hooked up to the engine. Awsome is the only word to describe it.
August 31, 200916 yr Buy the way, i couldnt resist. I did fire it up with the exhaust not hooked up to the engine. Awsome is the only word to describe it. Set off any car alarms?
August 31, 200916 yr Funny thing happened to me just last weekend. I had just one stud come loose and only prepared for a retap on one. Funny, as I put it back together, I found two more had stripped just under gentle wrenching. Back to the store. It was gonna take a hour but it turned into a few more after having to go back and get more studs and start the process all over again. Glad to have had a second car. If ones going ..........
August 31, 200916 yr Just follow my directions and you'll be fine. Get the two taps, and some all-thread and you'll be golden. The whole process takes about 15 minutes. GD He's right. This is one of the easier things to fix on a Sube. You can even find 7/16 studs at alot of autoparts stores so you don't even need to cut all-thread. Just use oil and run the tap in. No need to drill the hole as the stripped out hole is already perfect size for a 7/16 tap.
August 31, 200916 yr Funny thing happened to me just last weekend. I had just one stud come loose and only prepared for a retap on one. Funny' date=' as I put it back together, I found two more had stripped just under gentle wrenching. Back to the store. It was gonna take a hour but it turned into a few more after having to go back and get more studs and start the process all over again. Glad to have had a second car. If ones going ..........[/quote'] Yeah, It's not a bad Idea to just buy 4, 7/16 studs and tap new threads for all of em. Use red locktite on the studs when installed to the heads and you shouldn't ever have a problem again, even if the exhaust is unbolted many more times. * note that if you are tapping out an undamaged hole, you should then use a drill bit correct for the 7/16 tap.
September 1, 200916 yr Just tap it over to 7/16x20. You can use a bolt for that one stud if you choose although it's better if you get some all-thread and make a stud for it. It's really no trouble at all. I can see how it's frustrating though if you don't have the time, money, or resources to conquer it quickly. Buy two taps in the 7/16x20 variety. Grind the tapered end off one of them to make a "bottoming tap". Tap it with the virgin tap, then the bottoming tap to get the last few threads. Cut a suitible length of all-thread, taper the cut ends to dress the threads and install. Easy as cake! GD I inherited a set of pre wanked holes on my second engine. I'm using bolts now, with lock washers. Question; why would the stud be better? (as in, should I convert it back?)
September 1, 200916 yr I inherited a set of pre wanked holes on my second engine. I'm using bolts now, with lock washers. Question; why would the stud be better? (as in, should I convert it back?) Studs go all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole in the head - making them stronger and less prone to pulling the threads out of the aluminium - with a bolt you don't have full thread engagement because you can't tighten the header down if you do. More thread engagement = stronger. They also allow you to remove/install the header many times without worrying about the aluminium threads. It's really all about protecting the aluminium from damage and using studs maximizes the safety factor. GD Edited September 1, 200916 yr by GeneralDisorder
September 1, 200916 yr I see. Extremely logical. In this case, it got pretty involved and I replaced the awful bolts that were in it and cut new bolts to the exact (longest) length possible. I used a grip gauge and factored in lock washers and the thickness of the exhaust flange... I'm confident I have full thread engagement. That being said, I will be pulling my engine in the near future and while it's out it makes sense to convert it back to a stud - thanks for explaining.
September 22, 200916 yr Author Someone posted this in another thread. Could i use this setup to replace the exhaust studs. Loctight the studs then antisieze the other side. Said these were for a small block chevy.
September 22, 200916 yr It's really very simple if you follow my directions. Go get a peice of all-thread, cut yourself 4 studs, tap out the holes in the heads and have a nice day. This can all be done with hand tools - hacksaw and a file for the studs and a tap+crescent wrench for the heads. There is no need to get fancy, and there is no need to overthink it. Just DO IT and then have a beer. GD
September 23, 200916 yr Author It's really very simple if you follow my directions. Go get a peice of all-thread, cut yourself 4 studs, tap out the holes in the heads and have a nice day. This can all be done with hand tools - hacksaw and a file for the studs and a tap+crescent wrench for the heads. There is no need to get fancy, and there is no need to overthink it. Just DO IT and then have a beer. GD Ok Gd I trust you but couple questions. 1. How do i thread the allthread into the new hole without damageing the threads on the new studs. 2. Wont i have some nasty burs on my allthread if i cut it. 3. How long of a stud do i need to cut to get maximum penitration Im asumeing if i tap it to 7/16 i need to get 7/16 allthread.
September 23, 200916 yr Author Also GD sorry if im frustrating you. I need ask and re ask and look for the easiest and quickest solutions. My car cant be down long, and here in iowa we run out of warm weekends quick this time of year.
September 23, 200916 yr Ok Gd I trust you but couple questions. 1. How do i thread the allthread into the new hole without damageing the threads on the new studs. It should thread in by hand if you have done your job properly with the tap. If it's difficult, then you take two nuts, lock them together on the end, and use that to thread it in. It's called "double nutting", and is the common way to install/remove studs if you don't have access to a stud remover. 2. Wont i have some nasty burs on my allthread if i cut it. That's what the file/grinder is for. You taper the edges of the cut end at about a 45 degree angle to "feather" the threads. 3. How long of a stud do i need to cut to get maximum penitration Pull the drinking straw from your McD's cup and measure for yourself! (hint - use a sharpie!) Im asumeing if i tap it to 7/16 i need to get 7/16 allthread. Yes - do everything in 7/16x20 (the "20" part is the TPI, or "Threads Per Inch"). This isn't rocket science. GD
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