I am pretty sure you will be back to report what has already been told on this type of thing.

That's cool the adjustments still work. Nothing pisses me off more than some schmuck who did a terrible job installing HIDs (usually in reflectors) and blinds me in the dark...

 

I'd probably do 5000k or 5500k on mine. I have 6000k in my JDM projectors now, and it's too blue. Wouldn't say I lost output over halogens, but definitely didn't gain any.

 

Agreed. A buddy of mine put HID conversion kits in his Outback and Porsche 944, and they're pretty blinding. When he gets behind me, I move my rearview mirror to try and shine them back in his face.

 

But bear in mind that 1982gl4 and most of the folks on her are using proper HID projector kits, so they're not using the stock reflectors and should be about as glare-free as can be expected.

The other week I bought a 1993 Subaru loyale that's in mint shape with a rod knocking for 300.00 Just waiting for the weather to help me out and stay warm for a few days to get it done

Edited February 12, 201214 yr by Craigsti

The other week I bought a 1993 Subaru loyale that's in mint shape with a rod knocking for 300.00 Just waiting for the weather to help me out and stay warm for a few days to get it done

 

Are you sure it's rod knock?

There's a good chance it's just typical valvetrain clatter.

I think my direction for cars has taken a turn for the worst. This has everything to do with what have i not done to my subaru which is buy another one to get me around.

I think my direction for cars has taken a turn for the worst. This has everything to do with what have i not done to my subaru which is buy another one to get me around.

 

There are $500 Subarus all over WI. '95 Wagon for $500 in Milwaukee, $650 '93 Wagon in Madison, $1,500 Brat in Madison, $1,300 '83 Ski team car in Oconomowoc.

 

Looks like IA isn't the place for Subarus anymore?

well i have 3 for sale.

84 BRAT with ej project for 550

and GL ea81, and a 94SS

well i have 3 for sale.

84 BRAT with ej project for 550

and GL ea81, and a 94SS

 

Not to call you out in public, but that Brat will see nothing more then Scrap price (And you know it)

 

Its a basket case.

My Legacy is always for sale. If someone offered me the right price I'd probably hand over the title on the spot....

But nobody is going to offer what it's worth to me. Because it's a pile of junk, and I love it. haha.

But nobody is going to offer what it's worth to me. Because it's a pile of junk, and I love it. haha.

 

I've had so many cars like that :cool: Gotta love them, my legacy being one of them.

 

Speaking of which the lights work great, they are aimed high, so that needs to be addressed, but the light output is great and not blue It took the time for me to put my seatbelt on, and select my tunes for them to change to their true color.

 

 

Of course they warmed up to their proper colour after a minute or two, that's how they work

 

That's a lot better than the stupid blue mine are, and 6000k isn't really even THAT blue.

I'd go for 5000k next time.

 

Is your bottom picture on low beam? Because I don't see a nice cutoff at all.

It's because they are aimed far too high, I'm working on it.... when I turned my high beams on they are up in the trees I'll be fiddling with them tomorrow I can see it better in person then my camera is allowing. This is against a garage door at my friends house. You can see the yellow halogen lights from my dad's 83 merc 300d on the right side. It's not perfect, but I think I can get it pretty good with some adjustments tomorrow.

 

It may adjust all day long, you have no cutoff is maybe the reason you are shining into the bird nests, and other drivers eyes blinding them as well.

 

It you adjust them down lots, and you still have this, then you need to do something else. Add a cutoff. when you sanded down the lense grooves, you essentially sanded off the cutoff portion.

^^ huh?

Look at a car that comes OEM with bi-xenon projectors. The lenses are clear.

There's a little shield thing inside the projector. When it's in low beam mode the shield is down blocking off most of the light. That shield is what makes the sharp cutoff on projectors.

When it's in high beam mode, the shield goes up. This allows the light to go all over the place and light up the road. And yes, blinds other drivers. That's why you put it on low beam for oncoming traffic.

 

This is how cars that come from the factory with projectors work. He hasn't done anything wrong here..

 

Some cars, like newer subarus have a projector and a reflector. The projector has a fixed cutoff shield in it. Basically just the low beam portion of what he has. Then for high beams there's a regular halogen in a reflector that comes on. And that spews light all over the road.

It may adjust all day long, you have no cutoff is maybe the reason you are shining into the bird nests, and other drivers eyes blinding them as well.

 

It you adjust them down lots, and you still have this, then you need to do something else. Add a cutoff. when you sanded down the lense grooves, you essentially sanded off the cutoff portion.

 

Yeah that may be tomorrows project. I most certainly don't want to be blinding other people. I may add an eyelid of sorts. I have some leftover factory paint we shall see what I'm able to come up with. That fluting would have made it even worse scattering the light all over the place. far from finished but getting there

 

Edit* As 987687 has said these have a cut off built in. when it's on it's low beam, when it's off high beam. They just need some adjusting for right now. If they are still off after adjusting I'll be adding to them.

Edited February 13, 201214 yr by 1982gl4

Passed my emissions test. All it took to fix my high hc and jumpy idle was a new cts.

Got a turbo grill for my legacy yesterday.

I got spooked coming home last night. Just about hit my head on the ceiling.

 

I got on the freeway, checked my gauges, all was fine. Speed good, RPMs good, temp good, electric good.

 

I looked up at traffic and back down again in the normal 5-10 second sweep. My coolant has been dripping, and I add a couple cups a week so I keep a close eye on the temp. This particular time, though, the temp gauge went from normal to pointing at 12 on the proverbial clock in the few seconds between glances. Yes, 12, as in it was beyond the red into the off the charts area.

 

I exclaimed a curse word, but even while I was exclaiming, the temp dropped back to normal. I exclaimed another curse word and pulled off the freeway at the next gas station (about one mile). At no time did the engine make any change in noise or power, and when I got the hood open it did not even feel warm. The radiator and hoses were warm/appropriately hot. I added a cup or so of coolant, went on my way, and things were happy. And don't worry, I wore gloves and put a towel over the radiator cap before I opened it. It was just low and cool enough that it hissed and fizzled, but only the most insignificant amount of coolant came out. But like I said, I only had to add a cup or two (at most) of coolant. It may need a bit more if I have a bubble somewhere, but the everything besides the damn leak checks out. Heater lines, rad hoses, surface temp, sound, temp gauge...just had some freak episode I think.

 

My suspicion is that either a bubble of air was working it's way around the system (it should be in the radiator now, having gone through the thermostat/thermometer) or something happened to the wire connecter and it briefly grounded out for some reason. Everything else was well within normal except the gauge.

The first thing I thought when reading that is the wire grounded.

I doubt it's possible for the engine to overheat that much in a few seconds, then immediately drop right back down.

Finally got around to changing the front struts. Amazing how much more solid it drives/rides now.

The first thing I thought when reading that is the wire grounded.

I doubt it's possible for the engine to overheat that much in a few seconds, then immediately drop right back down.

 

Ya, there's no way it would move that far that fast. At least it should theoretically easy to find the short: have someone sit in the driver's seat and watch the gauge while you go around wiggling the wire.

 

Finally got around to changing the front struts. Amazing how much more solid it drives/rides now.

 

Good to know. I really should replace mine, handles like a boat since switching to 28" tires and removing the sway bar.

Picked up a cargo cover for my OBW and got the missing hardware yasterday. Got the hardware installed and now have a working cover.

Finished Hitachi carb rebuild..... 4 day to clean/rebuild/install/tune due to rain chasing me in, not having a garage sucks.

 

Looking in to a Weber as soon as possible

Edited February 17, 201214 yr by ontherun987

The first thing I thought when reading that is the wire grounded.

I doubt it's possible for the engine to overheat that much in a few seconds, then immediately drop right back down.

 

My thought as well. Once I had a chance to process everything, I realized it defies my current understanding of physics for the motor do what the gauge said happened, especially with no good cause and no symptoms aside from the gauge. I'll be playing with it/keeping an eye on it for the next few days. I dumped some gasket in a can in a few days ago but no significant improvement on the leak, so I may bite the bullet and do the water pump/whatever other gasket (thermostat comes to mind) in whatever snow the sky sees fit to dump next weekend. Gonna mess around with the wiring, too, and see what happens!

Made an attempt to change the shift linkage without success, could not get the bolt off and found mine has a rivet not a pin on the front.

 

I'm glad I tried tho. I noticed some oil on the oil filter and thought it odd. Turned out that it was not tight. That would not been good had I not noticed it.

 

I also swapped out a fraying seatbelt and working on redoing the bottom seat supports that are shot.