Zosojojo Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Hello everyone! My 1986 Brat has a moderate rear main seal leak. Changed the oil last month, had to add about a half a quart. Should I put some lucas stop leak in and take her for a long drive? Also my clutch disc is slipping pretty bad, haven't been able to floor the pedal in a long time =( Thank you, Zosojojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 No. Replace the failing seal. They obviously make that stuff for a reason because people are desperate or want one more year out of a rusted out worthless american car. Seems like a poor solution for a Brat. Peroonally I'd just plan on addressing everything that's labor intensive to get to all at one time: rear main seal clutch, throw out bearing, pressure place, resurface flywheel, reseal oil pan 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 +1 what grossgary wrote. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Never, EVER use a "stop leak" product of any kind. FIX THE ROOT PROBLEM, don't throw a Band-Aid at it... 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford'ssubaru's Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Stop leak a very bad idear listen to the above. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Never, EVER use a "stop leak" product of any kind. FIX THE ROOT PROBLEM, don't throw a Band-Aid at it... must ask why never ever use a stop leak product i used to say same until i came across lucas power steering leak fixer have also tried aussie made Nulon engine stop leak in my Brumbys 4 speed box to near dry up a front seal leak - which to fix proper is a bit like neeeding to poke finger down throat to scratch an itchy bottom. Do you know of why the stop leak should never ever be used ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweety Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 I would only use "stop leak" if I needed a couple of weeks grace before the real fix came about. You could go up on the oil grade to slow the leak. And in your case the clutch needs looking at. Do both items and be done with it. Throw on a sump gasket as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Stop leak isn't a lubricant, it shouldn't be in the crankcase. It also insulates the inside of your cooling system, making it less efficient. Besides all that, if you use it and later replace the fluid in question, there will still be some percentage of stop leak gunk in the system that you may never be able to fully remove. Now if you're stuck in the wilderness and you don't really care about the vehicle in question, go ahead and use the stuff. But it won't fix the problem, honestly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 most engine oil stop leak works by penitrating the seal causing it to exspand witch in turn weekens the entire seal also it dosent just weeken the one leaking seal it ruins all the seals that it comes in contact with so you would need to replace every seal gasket and oring instead of just the rear main seal no big deal if your gona replace or rebuild anyway but if you want your motor to last as is dont use engine oil stop leak 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Stop leak products for transmissions and crankcases are NOT the same as stop leak products for cooling systems. They are compatible with lubricating oil. They contain chemicals that are supposed to soften and swell the rubber in the seals. However, in your case, the clutch has been ruined by the oil leaking out of the rear seal, so it is probably not worth trying one of these. Pull it apart, fix the clutch and the seal all at once. The only reason to try a seal swell in your case is if it is really dripping fast, and you can't get to it for a week or 2, but still not worth it it the clutch isn't hooking up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zosojojo Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 I don't like the idea of mechanic in a bottle, but I recently separated the transmission and the engine and to my surprise Autozone sold me the wrong clutch set. Upon inspection of the clutch set installed previously in the car, I found black oil and sludge EVERYWHERE. It was probably leaking for a long time. It only leaks a tiny bit, I didn't want to do want I just did again so I thought I would ask. Thank you for your quick replies. NO STOP LEAK FOR BABY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zosojojo Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Hello everyone!. Thank you for your posts! Here is what ended up happening... I replaced the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal. I switched from 10w-40 (part synth) to straight conventional 30. Baby's running much better now! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 must ask why never ever use a stop leak product i used to say same until i came across lucas power steering leak fixer have also tried aussie made Nulon engine stop leak in my Brumbys 4 speed box to near dry up a front seal leak - which to fix proper is a bit like neeeding to poke finger down throat to scratch an itchy bottom. Do you know of why the stop leak should never ever be used ? I can see it for PS, where the cost of failure isn't insane, but for things like oil and radiators, I'd stay away. OIn the oil could glod something in the engine and I know of heater cores getting ruined from it going in the coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SourKraut412 Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 I used a stop leak to repair a leaking heater core once and it ran fine for another couple years. The core on that car was going to be quite labor intensive to get to and I didn't really care if it eventually ruined some things as it was already a beater with not much value. It later got totaled and I drained the system while selling off parts and out came all the sludge. There was a bunch of it still in the reservoir tank also. While it worked, I don't think I'd use it again on a car I planned to keep around for a while. The radiator was also pretty new and didn't have any rust/scale clogging the arteries, so that might have helped as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 That straight weight 30 is not the best stuff to run in the winter. It is hard to pump when cold. 10W-30 gets into the bearings faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 That straight weight 30 is not the best stuff to run in the winter. It is hard to pump when cold. 10W-30 gets into the bearings faster. Rotella T6 for life, in everything 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zosojojo Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 That straight weight 30 is not the best stuff to run in the winter. It is hard to pump when cold. 10W-30 gets into the bearings faster. im in northern california. the temp never gets below 32F so straight 30 can be run year round. In the summer I will try straight 40 because the temp will not drop below 60. I will also most likely will be trying lucas oil stabilizer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Somehow, 30 oil seems to be not good, even on a warm climate... I live at the Caribbean and have run my EA82 with 20W~50 for the past thirty years, Seems like it is ideal for almost permanent (year round) Warm climates ... ... Also, I agree that Stop Leaks are Dangerous on Engines and Radiators, But they do Magic on Transmissions and Power Steerings... Kind Regards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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