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Johns Subaru Auto Body in Gaston Oregon has a whole box of subaru distributors, of which at least a half dozen would fit the 86. (503) 985-7110 In that distributor, you have swing weights in the bottom that can get worn, you have tiny ball bearings that can dig into two plates that makes your vacuum advance not work smoothly, you have the vacuum mechanism that can go out and cause it to run roughly or not start at all, and you have the black brains on the top. The black brains go out often.

Update… Got the fuel tank cleaned and reinstalled. The wagon fired right up on a cold start, but once it warmed up, it stalled out. Still more work ahead. I’ve been reading up on how touchy and finicky these Hitachi carbs can be. I’ve got a feeling the old varnished fuel left the carb internals gummed up, and that’s what’s causing it to run rough. To be continued…

I forgot to take a picture of the damage, but the hole was WAY bigger than 3/4 of an inch. It was on the reverse side so I couldn't see it at first. Maybe an inch and a half, right in the middle where it bends. I'm trying to rubber cement and a large rubber batch on the outside and then letting it cure over night. If that doesn't work I'll try to take the whole thing apart and do a patch on the inside and outside. If all else fails I've taken the regular struts off my, destined for the junk yard, XT6. You're right el_freddo, looks like it'll bolt right in. Sad to see my old XT go but her sacrifices will not be forgotten 😔.

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89 GL 4WD. After many long nights I, a long with many other small odds and ends, got all 4 (technically 8 of em) wheel bearings done. Fronts were easy, sans the seals, I'm doing sealed bearings next time. The rears however, are confusing me a bit. I followed the FSM and used proper torque specs, (even on the rear retaining ring) new cone and spring washer. Everything was cleaned and I kept re-cleaning during assembly. But both axles have about 3-5mm yet before the cotter pin hole aligns with the castle nut. The stubs aren't pulled through far enough. I did put on new drums as well, the old outer seals were put on backwards (I double checked the FSM for their orientation) and spit grease all over the old drums and shoes. Is it possible the aftermarket drums are just slightly thicker/wider? I never measured them, they fit so it didn't occur to me to do so. I could check them but I don't want to buy new spring washers if I don't have to. Thanks :]

I doubt you’ll find replacements other than the odd second hand unit that rarely comes up for sale. It would be cool to keep the air struts, to do that you’d probably need to find a suspension shop that specialises in this sort of thing. Take the struts in and leave your platinum credit card with them too. I’ve heard the air suspension rides very well. Any 4wd L series struts will bolt straight in. That will be the easiest way to get your tex on the road while you decide on/sort out/bin the air struts.

I’m not sure but i would think the XT6 is a little different ratio and might hold the nose up somewhat, or a general body lift by about 1/2” or so. Only a guess. Such little activity here compared to years back pre- FB but if you haven’t already so check the archives.

On that photo in my last post, the discoloration on the tabs resulted when I removed the solder to separate them. Regarding the SERA484-10, I was looking at the image here. It appears that the rotation of the throttle would need be opposite of what we need.

Hmmm, I think I'm going to at TRY to repair them, but as a backup, I'll get myself some regular struts. Do you know if the struts from an 89 XT6 would fit in an 86 without much issue? Or should I go for something else?

For my older Subaru, a 2.5 engine was available locally for under $500; mechanic said he'd install it for less than that too, so under a grand all in.

I tried a set of LED H1 bulbs. They did not work so back to original.

Can they help me with my old Subaru parts? Maybe my fuel pump ?

One vote for Replace with Struts. Did it with a wagon. Was so worth it. Had an XT with same situation but never fixed it. My poor sister in law suffered that XT hardtail for a while before she’d had enough. Only reason to refresh or replace with same would be listening to your heart. My opinion.

Bummer! I tried very carefully to dismantle the failed TPS from PartsGeek. Unfortunately, while drilling out the rivets holding the circuit board to the base, the circuit board cracked in 3 places. It seems surprisingly fragile. Other than the cracks, I don't see any places where the carbon trace is broken. Nor any sign of heat damage.

The ebay vendor just cancelled my order for the SERA484-10 TPS because it is out of stock. Looks like I'll have to order one shipped from New Jersey instead of California and wait an extra few days for it to get here.

Howdy! I'm continuing to work on my 1986 XT Turbo, I had just finished rebuilding the breaks and was about to take her on her maiden voyage and as the compressor is going, I hear a quiet "psssh" which turns to a quick and louder "PSSSH". I am able to hear and feel a hole in the rubber boot on the driver side rear shock. It feels like it's right in the middle of the boot, about an 3/4 in wide. What's the best method for repairing these? Just a tire patch of some kind? or maybe some kind of thick rubber band? Or is it better to see if I can find a replacement on Ebay. Or should I give up on this 80s dream and go the practical route of replacing with regular coil and struts 😆. Thanks in advance, Philly

This is the 2nd member that hasnt posted in a long time, and I believe their accounts are being hacked As for there being any mods here? Yes, there is, but we have lives too. So please report any questionable content you see and we'll try and get it taken care of asap

My electronics skills are pretty basic. So I really appreciate the suggestions. I just checked for continuity across all possible pairings of the R, G and B tabs, on the inside of the module. It's open on all of them. As expected, when the contact on the idle switch is closed, LG to B shows continuity. I'll go ahead and open it up and let you know what I find. Crossing my fingers that the SERA484-10 can be adapted for our application!

I offered to help, not knowing your electronics skills but maybe you can figure it out with careful inspection. I would basically take it apart and find out if it failed due to a mechanical issue (like a hidden crack across the carbon path) or if it failed due to somehow suffering from an over-current condition. Your test results seem to indicate it failed in more than one way. I would be looking very closely for any hint of heat damage or circuit board burns. Also look for cold solder joints and micro cracks in any circuit traces. I will sometimes heat and cool a circuit to look for failures caused by expansion and contraction. You say you get no continuity on any of the pins after the new TPS failed. Using the diagrams immediately above as reference, it does not make sense that you read nothing across R-B, nor across R-G or G-B. One or two of those paths should still be reading some type of resistance whether the part overheated or cracked. Very unusual to read an open circuit on any combination across the R,G, or B wires. That would have to mean the carbon path failed as well as the wiper on the G-wire. The connection between the B-LG wires we don't care about right now because it is a simple on/off switch and you can physically see if that contact is working at idle. I had TPS issues when I first got my EA82 SPFI 87 wagon 3 years ago, but I was able to clean it up and make it work. I'm really temped to buy one of the cheap SERA484-10 TPS modules on Amazon, just to learn if it can be configured to work in our application. I see one example online where a person said it worked on their EA82 but yet another where they said it did not. I think I will order one and find out for myself. It would be good to know the answer and have a spare for myself if it is possible. I'm not concerned with connectors being plug-n-play of course. Update: I went ahead and ordered one of the SERA484-10 TPS modules off eBay and should have it by the weekend to check out.

Thanks for your reply azdave! No, the connection stays open through the whole sweep. Thanks for the offer to bench test it. What would that involve? Just wondering if, with guidance, it's something I could do. The FSM Fuel Pump Circuit diagram contains this section on the TPS. Presumably, the new TPS circuit is the same... I do have a good multimeter. Thanks again!

I don't see what you could have done wrong if all your readings were as you say. It a simple potentiometer setup with an on/off switch on the side to let the ECU positively know when the throttle is in the full idle position. If you currently have no continuity between pins B&D, unlike when you tested it new, that would indicate that the carbon trace on the board had burned in half or was separated somehow. If you now connect the Ohm meter between pins B &C and then turn the shaft from stop to stop, do you ever measure anything but an open connection as the wiper sweeps around the carbon trace? The 5 volt signal should not be able to supply enough current to damage the sensor. Even if that supply wire measured 12 volts, it would barely generate 0.003 amps (0.04 watts) which should easily be handled by the carbon wiper. I don't know what kind of time schedule you are under but I can offer to bench test the TPS and see if I can determine what failed. Not much to lose except for the time to mail it back and forth and the postage cost. I myself would not risk another new TPS until I had a better idea what failed.

I've been reading some more and it sounds like a BFH is the way to go with this. So I made a drawing of what my idea is. I'd need to source some hardwood or some polypropylene sheets (thick maybe 3/8") to absorb the hammering and transfer the forces to the CV cup rather than into the brittle hardened bearing surfaces. Also the grooves in the boards/sheets would have to be perfectly sized to fit around the axle, but not let the bands fit through. I'd also need to figure out how to prevent the axle from articulating as I'm beating it up for lunch money. Here's my idea, though if anyone has experience doing this without damaging any of the axle components then please share.

Hi all! I'm new here, thanks for taking me in, happy to see a community like this! I have some problems that I couldn't overcome with the google+chatgpt+youtube trinity so far. I have a 1989 E12 Libero, KJ8 engine code, carbed. Can anyone point me in the direction of this part? I am looking for a replacement. I managed to work out that its a vacuum switch/solenoid, but I cannot find the part on amayama or other sites. Searching for brand name/numbers was not successful either. I might see some glue residue inside from previous repair attempt, but the holes are so small that I'm not sure. According to the vacuum diagram it is connected to 2 ports on the carb, marked with "E" & "S" on the switch there are to marks, "S" & "N" If I connect this to the vacuum port to the carb as it is shown on the vacuum diagram, it kills the engine for 0.5 second in every 1 second, as soon as the vacuum reaches to a point where it is supposed to work. Basically making it undriveable at 2000rpm. If I disconnect, engine seems to misfire at every rpm slightly, not bad, but not driveable on the long run. The previous attempt was to keep the switch's electric plug connected, but the 2 vacuum ports were disconnected from it, and simply plugged into each other, making constant conncention between the to ports of the carb. I am thinking about replacing to some random "EVAP Evaporative Emissions Vacuum Solenoid Switching Valve" as I found they work in a similar mater, and give it a go. Any ideas or help is much appreciated! Thanks!

I've got a seized rear stub. I'm lost as to how the shaft is removed from the CV joint. From what I've read on here it is technically possible to remove the shaft from the CV joint, as is shown above, but this takes some finesse. I do not have a press and I don't want to wallop on the joint since the hardened steel is brittle. Does anyone have any pointers on how to remove the shaft? Is it possible to angle the joint with the shaft still in place, then use a brass punch to shift the cage enough to remove the balls without removing the shaft? Isn't all that retains the shaft is a circlip, similar to the DOJ retaining clip but smaller in diameter? Thanks :] P.S. I'm trying to remove the stub since I'm doing my rear wheel bearings. Technically I can reinstall the axle without removing the stub and get everything lined up. But in the future if I need to replace the stub (sheared splines, etc) then I'm basically SOL and have to replace the entire axle.

1991 Loyale Wagon SPFI FWD had new cats put on 6 years ago after CA smog fail. New cats then passed CA smog with flying colors. HC (ppm) meas was 6 (six) @15mph and 3 (three) @25 mph. CO% meas was 0.01 @15mph and 0.00 !!!. @25mph. NO (ppm) meas was 58 @15mph and 32 @25mph. I could not have been happier. Engine had 340k miles on it. After the engine overheated to death, I swapped in an EA82 long block (a pro rebuild that is now going on 6k happy miles - I got lucky on a Craigs List find. All good work, from cams to main bearings to new oil pump. Probably rebuilt around 2009 when machining and parts were still available). Jump ahead to 2021 and 2023 when the CA smog tests measured crazy high. HC (ppm) meas was 118 @15mph and NO (ppm) meas was 788!!! @15mph. BUT NO (ppm) meas was only 64 @25mph. I am not sure as to WHY. My DIY guesses range from my having messed up the EGR setup, ignition timing, to a low performing fuel pump (lean fuel mix) , to a slightly higher compression ratio after heads resurfaced (although there has never been any knocking sound). Any ideas? Thanks to all you guys for still being here.- Ricky