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^ very nice!

yup, swap out the trans. you mentioned noise was only in 2nd gear. bad diff would make noise according to speed of the car regardless of gear

So shiny... I'll do a writeup later, maybe this weekend if I have time.

Changed the gear oil and sparklies were in the oil but no chunks...tried to feel in the drain hole and nothing there...The differential is 'part of' the transmission, correct - I may as well replace the whole trans vs. just the differential?

On the 3rd gens the outer seal is smaller, it fits around the inner boss of the hub. The inner seal is larger. It snugs up against the outer CV joint. The outer cup of the CV is the sealing surface so the seal is quite large.

I forgot it had electric power steering. So that's one less thing to worry about. lol 99% of the time the AC won't turn it, it's because you're low on refrigerant and the low pressure cutout switch is tripped. There's no point in doing any other diagnostics until you get a set of gauges on it and check the charge. An ER27 is a big EA82 engine, with the same bellhousing. A newer engine will need a bellhousing adapter and redrilled flywheel, unless you run a newer transmission too, which is its own whole set of adaptations. Pitch stop is the link on top of the engine to the firewall. You have to fab brackets for it for an engine swap.

Yeah I understand the back and forth version would be a project in of itself, i just like the idea of being able to enjoy my new Gen flat 6 without sacrificing my darling ER Anyways could you help me understand my powersteering situation a little better? Since its got the electric power steering, I dont see why i cant forgo the power steering pump on the EZ entirely, are the custom hoses for clearances purposes or? Also what's a pitch stop? Do EA transmissions fit up to the ER? I've seen conflicting things here Also you remind me, i don't know how or how to make my AC pump turn on, it hasn't bugged an inch nor have I been able to root around and find whether or not the thing is hooked up,

This is my end goal, when I have more money then time and no limit to what im capable of

On Gen II, inner and outer are the same seal.

That inner seal is the one that gave me the most issues. Seemed like the smaller the diameter of the seal, the easier to install. Probably less resistance because of the smaller surface area contacting the bore.

😬

I could be done if several components were adapted to work between the two engines. Wiring looms can be laid over each other and whichever one is needed is the one used. Realistically though, once you go for the larger power and more reliable engine you won’t look back. Tuck the original parts under the workbench all sealed up and labelled for a future resto - if it ever happens. That’s the plan for my brumby too - upgrade the drivetrain, everything factory that’s removed is kept for future resto options (that will no doubt never happen).

Someone in another thread recently said they couldn't find the right driver for installing front wheel seals, so here's the random find I've been using for Gen II seals, a HyperTough 64P-14 oil filter socket, with the outside very slightly filed for a looser fit in the knuckle.

There is no back-and-forth. The mods needed to fit a newer engine are extensive - you'd need to do a lot of work to make anything repeatedly swappable, and it'd still be a big project every time. For just a small part of the list, you can start with engine mounts, bellhousing adapter, modded flywheel, starter, fuel pump and plumbing, custom radiator hoses, custom power steering hoses, custom a/c hoses, engine computer and complete wiring harness, pitch stop, radiator fans, air intake, alternator wiring, vacuum hoses to body-mounted vacuum stuff, ignition coil stuff, etc etc etc... all of which you'd have to have two sets of and swap each time with the engine...

Ideally, id only be doing this for the ease of parts, if its possible I want to restore the engine and have the freedom to swap back and forth between my EZ and ER, thats a pet project for another post but for now, yes ill do all I can to keep the ER running.

Well, I don't think I'll be bothering with that step. I sat down the other day to install the timing kit, and immediately discovered what broke that chain - a seized intake cam. So in all likelyhood I'll just be pulling the motor and figuring it out from there.

If it were me, I'd be collecting parts to keep the ER running before thinking about an engine swap. I know the oil pumps and water pumps are higher flow than the EA pumps. Parts is going to be the everlasting gobstopper, you've just got to be stubborn and eat the elephant one bite at a time. My EA82 is the exact same way, but mine is more of a loping "rap rap rap rap" that's a lower tone, not a "clack" nor a "tick". But my oil pump also leaks from the "freeze plugs". Once my engine is warm it's quiet as a field mouse. I run 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer. If you have the vision, keeping the ER27 would be the way to go. They're very uncommon and you'd be keeping a piece of Subaru history alive. I've never had the privilege of hearing, seeing, or putting a wrench to one but if they're anything like their 4-cylinder brother, then it'd be extremely adverse to dying so long as the fluids are maintained. Good luck the XT6 is up there as one of the weirdest Subarus. :]

Check your oil again after filling the fuel tank next time - unless you only do a partial fill, in which case I’d check after the second partial fill. My brumby likes a little oil top up after every second fill up. Leave it too long and it drops off the dip stick 😬

Sounds like a fresh reseal of the oil pump will help the ticking. Get all settled for timing, front seals, and when you’ve got that pump resealed rev the piss out of it to get the oil to fill that last hydraulic lifter in the line. That’s the backyard method. It works. No need to be scared just watch the redline. Hold it pegged for a few seconds or more and it’ll quiet down. Use a nice light oil too like 5w30. I know some new lifters are still out there. I just sold some and have a few more I’m pretty sure, and I did see others selling them as well. But you’re not at that point. If you’re going to gather parts keep in mind you often get a factory Subaru part in an older Beck Arnley box for many bearings and such. Paraut and Atsugi are also helpful names you won’t go wrong with. They supplies Subaru with clutches and pumps. Enjoy it !

I have the original manuals 1-6 for the car, ill dig em out and get to book worming. Last time I read through them I wasnt granted much useful, hopefully I can make better use of em. And I checked my oil after the drive to school this morning, still good 👍🏽 Sparks are brand new, oil filter, and oil have less than a thouwow in miles, and the tick comes and goes as i drive, usually getting to be completely quiet once shes warm.

I haven't worked on one of those engines (I'm more of a Gen II wagon fan), but those problems could just be it's time for routine maintenance... Change your spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, check for vacuum leaks (vacuum hoses, brake booster, stuck evap, intake gaskets, etc), clean throttle body, clean MAF sensor, check temperature sensor, clean idle air control valve, adjust idle throttle stop, change fuel filters, check fuel pressure under full load, etc. Some lifter tick is normal with that many miles - you can try various flushes and such, or just live with it. It sounds like this car is new to you, so keep a close eye on the oil level until you know just how fast it uses it - running it with no oil will make that engine swap suddenly a high priority. https://charm.li/ is good for quickly looking things up, https://project-car.net/technical-info/ has a pdf service manual, and you can google for other manuals... or ebay a full set. Will come in handy with the amount of work you plan on doing.

Good to know. I guess it goes to show that just reading through specs on the Internet isn't a substitute for checking things in person. Also turns out the Nissan Rogue struts are 49mm in diameter.

The tick isn’t anything detrimental - just lifter tick. Parts are basically unobtainiam for the XT6 other than those shared with the L series - and even these are starting to dry up. The H6 conversion would be sick. The wiring is the biggest part of the job. After that it’s driving it so you don’t kill the gearbox! That said, a mate of mine ran the 3L H6 in a gen2 Liberty with the same gearbox that’s in your XT6 - just a dual range version. The thing was mint offroad with the locking centre diff. Sadly he killed the diff one trip in the sand as it didn’t lock and he fried it. Enjoy the journey - collect parts when you can find them! The air bag setup you might need to go down the custom aftermarket route. I don’t have any leads on this sorry.

Oh youre 100% correct, I intend to do all the side missions before I finish the game yeah? Perhaps I should've been more clear that thats a long term goal not intended to be done ASAP, but I still wanted yalls opinions on it. Regards to the engine, im not certain of the full extent of its issues but it has the tick, I need to locate and afford an oil pump seal so I can hopefully fix that issue, which hopefully you guys can educate me on as well. My main concern is that it will stall randomly upon pressing the clutch in, the engine power seems to wane randomly like the engine isn't firing properly or something, its not an issue per se but its coming up on 300,000 miles, I believe its burning a little oil? But its doing so at a snails pace and ive barely had to give it oil to keep it up after the first oil change. I want to change all my gaskets if I can but I cant seem to locate any gaskets for the engine, and I have trust issues with Ebay.

I think you should start with simpler projects, like CVs, ball joints, and tie rod ends, before worrying about an engine swap. Until you're confident with routine maintenance like that, an engine swap isn't even something you can consider. Then worry about suspension mods and such until you're comfortable with fab work and re-engineering things. Then you can start researching engine swaps or other large projects. Is there even anything wrong with your current engine?