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I have a 1997 Subaru Impreza that needs replacement weather stripping around the RH doors as well the rear lift gate. Sadly, these parts are discontinued by Subaru. Does anyone have an idea of where I might find these parts?

Thanks, yes these are just simple straight through side feed. Maybe comments people made about turbos had me confused, it didn't look like these could leak. Thanks

I would not be surprised if my rings were bad. That'd explain why my vacuum flutters on start up then quickly subsides within a minute. The throttle body I'm using is a junk yard unit so no clue if the previous owners tried to adjust the mixture. There is still a fuel smell to the exhaust. It's so weird because it went away after fixing the code 34, then it came back. At least now it's running without throwing a CEL or codes.

Fouling after driving down the hill with clutch engaged, would likely be the pistons sucking oil past the rings into the combustion chamber. The dirty plug would confirm that. There is an mixture adjustment screw on the top of my intake manifold. You lean it out by unscrewing it and getting the highest idle rpm. You stop unscrewing it just as the maximum rpm is reached.

The original bolts are so soft that they will break off with very little tightening. There is no idiots guide that says one must overtorque high strenth bolts. Given the limited thickness of the gasket, I would think that it would be quite impossible to warp that small of an oil pan, unless you are not into equal tightening on all sides. Removing the oil pan while the engine is in place, I believe it impossible. Beside accessing the rear bolt being quite difficult, the oil pan needs to slide out towards the rear due to the sloped oil intake tube below the engine. So snugging up new bolts appears to be the only viable option, unless you want to pull the engine.

Sounds like progress!

I went to inspect the purge solenoid. 24.5ohms resistance. Hmm the valve is good. Maybe there's an intermittent connection. Tested the engine harness. Continuity checks okay. Tested the harness between the ECU and the engine. Continuity checks okay. Maybe it's the ECU. I swapped in a different ECU. No more CEL and now the RPM's drop gradually versus with the other ECU they'd drop rapidly when the engine got to temp. Maybe it was an ECU issue? I'll see how this one does.

Looking for wiper arms to fit my 1983 Subaru GL wagon 4wd email............egowing@tds.net

Well at least I saw my box with my service manuals inside. I was way busy and did not take the box down and open it. But we have some warm weather tomorrow so I’ll check as I get back there. I kind of thought that link wouldn’t have the A/C from my foggy memory. I think folks who upload these get a little tired and figure “hey I’ve got the engine section, that ought to keep folks happy” and that’s the end of the upload. But with new technology maybe folks will fill in more.

They’re fairly great. I have a small fleet of them now. 2002,2003,2003,2003 all Legacy or Legacy Outback. In 2004 and after you’ll get the fly by wire deal so no more throttle cable. And if you do an engine swap there’s a little work around for the EGR is swapping against the 2000-02 with a 2003 or 2004. You might never need that info since they generally run pretty well. Oh the piston slap in one of ours. Mostly when cold then quiets down. That’s the “new” lifter noise. Lifters aren’t as loud as the EA engines. Worse problem with driving these is just the usual - other drivers.

So is there no deteriorating catalytic converter potentially contributing to clogged exhaust? Saw it on a Ford van years ago. Ran it loud and proud to diagnose a clogged cat.

Just wanted to see if there is anything specific I need to check on. I'm going to do searches for any tsb's and other stuff but wanted any input you all might have on it. 153k has some ticking from the engine. Not sure if it is lifter or piston slap. Runs good. EDIT son took it out to show his brother how to drive a standard and muffler fell off. LOL Got one ordered. Thanks Hush

Yep I spoke too soon. Went to start my car this morning before work and I got a CEL. Double bugger. Code 35, purge solenoid. So I'll be doing some tests tonight after work to see what's going on. If I need to, I'll be replacing the solenoid with the same model I used for my EGR solenoid replacement. AISIN VST-026. Boy have the price of those jumped since I last bought one! Nearly double the price.

Sounds good; thank you!

Shoot. I couldn't find what I'm looking for there, but I appreciate you linking it!

I don't want to speak too soon but I believe I've fixed the issue. As I was going over the vacuum hoses and trying to hone in my timing I got a check engine light. Code 34 EGR solenoid. Bugger! On my other engine I was using a Toyota EGR solenoid. I used a "good" OEM solenoid on this setup. Well turns out that solenoid wasn't good. I swapped my trusty Toyota valve back in and it runs like a top. Vacuum at idle is strong and steady between 20-21 inHG. No more fuel smell. I'll do some city driving tomorrow to test it out. It likes to act up most with frequent starts and stops or rapid deceleration to a stop. :]

try here Index of /Auto/Japan/Subaru O.

I might have the paper version at storage. Will check as I can. But yeah I think the online downloads are mostly engine and if you’re lucky body too. But finding A/C might be tough online.

My first thought is yes you’ve got from I think 1998-2001 plus or minus Not sure about doing a full swap but going to the two cam vs using the quad cam was an option many folks took up back when.

Hi there! I've found many entries online for FSMs for the first gen Legacy but none have the section for AC system components. I think it's section 4. Does anyone have a link to that I could download? Thanks!

I have a 99 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon with a 2.2 engine in it. It's got single header exhaust y pipe. When I'm going up a steady highway incline in 5th I begin to lose power. Even flooring it doesn't help very much. It doesn't happen in other gears. Even in 3rd on pretty steep hills but only in 5th on gradual hills. I'll be going like 75-80 and it will drop to about 65. Can someone help me out with this? Also is an EJ22 from a 2000 easily transferable over to the 99? Is it a straight swap? This current one in the 99 has been nothing but problematic for me. The guy I bought it from said its also not the original engine. But I have a good EJ22 from a 2000 that I wrecked that's at 107,000 miles and it was a fantastic engine.

Anyone?

Found some

Found some.

I think it was too long but I should check.