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For the last 3 weeks I've been battling a cluster eff of symptoms most here would think are related to failing sensors, injection or other. And there were no CEL or codes stored(!!!) Things replaced or checked in order Replaced efi fuel pump & filter. Pump had died in mid July. Blew air thru suction line to clear any junk on fuel tank strainer - nothing Checked evap cannister & fuel tank purge lines - good. Checked evap sol valve - good. Replaced plugs, cap & rotor, spark plug wires, coil. Replaced optical sensor in distrib & upper 6200 sealed ball brg. Needed optical sensor as there was corrosion inside distrib. Brg was 'crunchy' Replaced MAF sensor - twice. Once with unknown used one & once with "reman" Cardone MAF. Waiting for known good genuine Hitachi MAF to arrive. Then will put "Car-do-nay" on shelf as spare Checked CTS - good. Pulled apart air cleaner & snorkel under fender to check for obstruction - good Rebuilt SPFI throttle body & checked TPS for dead spots - good Checked front cat, rear cat & muffler for obstructions. Replaced rear cat for general principle as it was a 8 yr old aftermarket Magnaflow CA legal cat. Added an O2 sensor bung ahead of new cat for 96 EJ efi conversion. My 87 4wd GL was bucking-cutting out randomly. Stalling after starting. Losing power at top end in any gear. Got to point of being undriveable. I have no room in driveway right now(of course) to Ej it otherwise I would have. Will have to wait until I have space to work. Car is registered in MT so it is exempt. Yay! After replacing the rear cat & getting no where I stopped for the night to test drive again in morning. Glad I did. Started with difficulty. stalling a few times until it ran with coaxing from me using throttle pedal - a lot of coaxing. As I was getting in driver's seat, I hit the lower dash panel. Then it died. AHA!!!!! Pulled down panels. Started digging into the wiring to look for loose connections but found none. Pulled down ECM & swapped in my backup ECM. Replaced ignition & fuel pump relays above ECM mount while I was there(had ordered them a week before just in case). Started engine with no problem & no stalling. IAC behaved normally raising idle to warm up. As I was lifting ECM back in place the engine died again. Hmmm. Started checking further into wiring. Found that there was corrosion in sensor connector - the translucent white connector with all the shielded sensor wiring. All sensor wires go thru there. Cleaned the contacts.Then repeatedly put conn together & pulled it apart a few times to 'wipe away' the corrosion. Put ECM back in mount bracket. Went for test drive. Runs better than it has in months. I can recall some hesitation, loss of power & etc when I came back from MT. This must've been it all along. Anyone else mystified by a long long list of things checked or replaced with no positive result ought to look under the dash at sensor connector(its next to rectangular gray diode to left of ECM) & ECM connector corrosion. Look to the engine bay harness for corrosion too. Any intermittent connection in harness would replicate the symptoms we associate with clogged cats, failing ignition, failing injector, failing MAF, etc. Enough to drive you nuts............. Happy hunting!

Tone ring... that's what that's called? Yes, the screws came threw the spindle into the ring. There is no way to rebuild it. It's too beat up. I'll be pulling the assembly from another car. I'll do a complete brake job on this before it's done. The car is going to a lady I know who lives on Social security, and has trouble walking. This ride will give independence and make doctor appointment much easier. So ya, good brakes equals piece of mind. As for the previous owner, I can't say anything bad. He's a nice guy overall. Just a bit clueless. While marijuana is legal in Washington, it doesn't mean everybody should partake.

yep i grabbed the knock sensor from my friends 2001 parts car and re pinned it into my old ones connector. it was a one wire knock sensor like the one that came off. problems fixed.

Scanned that from my Haynes book but Brother scanner has hinged lid to it. No choice in book orientation so just rotate it twice with view button at top of Adobe Reader. Referring to 1st Haynes tps adj page for US spfi: 4 pin tps - A & B conns are off-idle switch. C is wiper & D is V input. This I know from checking mine on spfi body.

Try looking up lockwasher by dimensions at an industrial parts supplier. Like McMastercarr.com or mscdirect.com.

This is the wheel that was in an accident? If this was an insurance job then I would take it back to the shop and ask them about it. 1. make sure the brake dust shield isn't bent or debris caught in it. 2. check brake pads and mating surface - maybe it's just light surface rust from sitting during the repair. 3. check emergency brake adjustment 4. if i had to guess after simple things are checked - wheel bearing or cv joint.

all good suggestions thanks . So far no change. Sounds like a radio whistle, maybe I slipped a supercharger under the bonnet

99 should already have a 10mm oil pump I think..... definitely check. 642 gaskets are a slightly better fit to the head cooling ports. Though it doesn't matter in the least. The valve guide dropping issue is on the 2006+ heads. The stem seals are viton and you need not touch them. I would lap the valves though. Or have a 3 angle done. STI oil pan and dipstick (different length) will increase capacity, has better baffles, and this way you don't have to clean the old one when you do rings. NPR rings, NO honing. Drill the carbon out of the drain back holes, knurl the skirts and hand file them to a net-zero fit. GD

Take an air chisel and punch holes in the rear of the block to access the bolts. The block is scrap anyway. This has worked many times and is really quick.

I would call around for how much parts are and then get the shop estimate hours. I know a couple local shops that charge around $75 an hour, maybe a little better on cash and let you bring the parts. Rock Auto and Advance may not have OE quality but it is worth checking what their near OE parts would cost.

Broken wires in the flex boot where the harness runs from the body into the door, or corrosion inside the connector for the door harness. The connector is just inside the body behind the kick panel.