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Tone ring... that's what that's called? Yes, the screws came threw the spindle into the ring. There is no way to rebuild it. It's too beat up. I'll be pulling the assembly from another car. I'll do a complete brake job on this before it's done. The car is going to a lady I know who lives on Social security, and has trouble walking. This ride will give independence and make doctor appointment much easier. So ya, good brakes equals piece of mind. As for the previous owner, I can't say anything bad. He's a nice guy overall. Just a bit clueless. While marijuana is legal in Washington, it doesn't mean everybody should partake.

Here's some tips for rebuilding your EA82 optical distributor. I've had the optical pickup crap out causing bucking while accelerating before. Not fun when your far from home. And embarrassing cause you look like a stick shift NOOB. First remove 2 screws & dust cover for optical pickup. Then remove center screw. Remove upper retainer then disc being careful not to bend it. Remove locating tabbed disc & spring washer with "D" hole in it. "T" shaped optical disc retainer is a slip fit on shaft. Might have to use a very small 2 jaw puller if gummed up like mine was. Once "T" retainer is out of the way remove 3 screws retaining optical pickup. Note orientation of two tabs & alignment of hole in distrib driven gear. Hole must line up with nub on bottom of distrib + LH tab in uppermost pic pointing toward optical pickup. Note that there is a nub on side of distributor above mounting flanges & it aligns with nub at bottom. Alignment hole is to left of my thumb at right angle to pin punch. Remove bottom connector from distrib body(2 screws) & pry gently with screwdriver if needed. Remove 3 retaining screws from optical module & lift it out. Upper distrib shaft brg is retained with 2 screws with captive washers. Remove driven gear spring pin (be careful not to lose it - its odd sized metric) & pull gear off. Press shaft out from bottom. Had to retap mine to 6-32 thread because old hardware was pretty corroded & stripped the threads in aluminum distrib body. Bottom shaft brg is a bushing so just need a little oil. Upper brg is Nachi 6200-2NSE9: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6200-2NSE9-NACHI-bearing-6200-2NSE-seals-6200-2RS-bearings-6200-RS-Japan/131652289255?hash=item1ea71682e7:g:MpYAAOSwvt1WR23i Optical pickup is Standard Motor Products LX-653. Can be had here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-LX-653-Distributor-Ignition-Pickup-FITS-NISSAN-SUBARU-INFINITY-MERCURY/262568795460?fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item3d2251dd44:g:ObUAAOSww4NXqNFE "Exploded" hardware pic Tabbed drive disc, optical shutter disc only fit on one way so there's slim chance of misalignment. BUT distrib driven gear hole must be aligned with nub & LH tab in upper disc toward optical pickup head.

The button was installed by a dealer tech and not all of them are in the same place. Some aren't even mounted just tucked or tied. You will have to trace the wiring from the box. GD

Haa haa. best part is this guy at Superior talked to me on the phone for about 30 mins. He described what my car was doing as if he had been driving it for the past month. He said if I took it to him that would be the part he would replace. Went back to my mechanic and we did just that and it seems to have been the missing link. I'll pay it forward friend. Thanks again

Thanks for everyones input. This forum is great. I called Superior Soobie and they are great. Seem to have found what the issue was. Replaced the Air Fuel Ratio Sensor (145$) and it seems to have solved my issues. Appreciate the help.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Standard-TH331-fits-88-92-Isuzu-Pickup-2-6L-L4/292661797038?fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AIsuzu|Model%3ATrooper|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&epid=693046037&hash=item442400a0ae:g:rDoAAOSwCpRbH4M4 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Standard-TH333-fits-88-91-Isuzu-Trooper-2-6L-L4/292661797201?fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AIsuzu|Model%3ATrooper|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&epid=1623083097&hash=item442400a151:g:vVoAAOSwJqNbJOjO https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-BECK-ARNLEY-158-0505-fits-88-92-Isuzu-Pickup-2-6L-L4/283073257056?fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AIsuzu|Model%3ATrooper|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&epid=76463845&hash=item41e87b1e60:g:aJ0AAOSw7m9bG2IT

Problem is NOT fixed. The 2.5 sensor has a different connector because the 2.2 and 2.5 use different piezoelectric crystal frequencies and it will not correctly identify knock events. It has the right resistance to make the ECU diagnostic subroutines happy but it will not function the same and may lead to detonation and a premature rod bearing failure. Subaru engines are very sensitive to detonation. GD

Wow. Well done, that is fantastic.

You are a Champ for chimps like me. Thanks for going to this effort. I could do write up on how to destroy one!

Thanks for the kind words. I have some skill, she has a need. A neighbor scraps old cars. He's bringing me some subes so I can strip parts before the scrapping. That helps a lot with this project. I've helped him, he helps me. Small town. Thanks for the tips on these brakes. My manuals say very little about these.

Thank you for helping that lady. That is huge

Great idea thankyou

yep i grabbed the knock sensor from my friends 2001 parts car and re pinned it into my old ones connector. it was a one wire knock sensor like the one that came off. problems fixed.

yeah, call 3-4 highly rated shops for estimates. get name-brand ceramic pads.

I would call around for how much parts are and then get the shop estimate hours. I know a couple local shops that charge around $75 an hour, maybe a little better on cash and let you bring the parts. Rock Auto and Advance may not have OE quality but it is worth checking what their near OE parts would cost.

Who knew you could fit a mini-machine shop inside the drum!?!?