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Pull gently back away from tranny, rotate converter either direction and try again. Continue until you hit the flat spots down inside and then the converter will slip in that last little bit.

Those manuals are great! Thanks for the info

Voltmeter in my 87GL has been 'off' for some time now & I know for a fact that the Nissan Maxima alternator is putting out between 13.9 & 14.5 V, depending on state of battery charge when engine starts. Decided to use the space occupied by a clock that wouldn't keep time for something useful. Found a digital surface mount voltmeter made by Stinger products & a cheap USB port online. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-Pro-SVMB-12v-Voltmeter-3-Digit-Blue-LED-Voltage-Meter-Display-Gauge/142134595191?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Made a plate of 11 ga aluminum, painted with self-etching OD green primer & mounted to dash pad with 6-32 brass nut inserts & SS screws, coarse thread wood nut insert found at Ace hardware stores. May as well had an idiot light as this useless inaccurate voltmeter. Closeup of USB charging ports & voltmeter. Hard to capture voltmeter fluorescent display without flickering. Didn't quite get the plate in square but for now its OK. Have another dash pad in better condition that I'll use when I EJ it & add A/C. Used the old pigtail from digital clock to connect these into system. Ideal as there's all the circuits I need in clock branch of wiring - ignition on, battery hot & ground.

Remove it, go on, someone has to be the guinea pig. Can you edit your original post to include the fact wire does not go directly to earth, but through radio interference suppressor I think you will find it is Possibly looks like an add on as I think radios were a dealer fitted option so suppressor would have been also added with radio install

Learn something new each day!

This is a tough crowd for this question. We only think in parts. Under $700 with tax is in the ball park of reasonable. I would also do the brake shoes for the e-brake if needed

There isn't one. I assume you either recently reset the codes on the computer or disconnected the battery. The ECU need to relearn it's idle. Clear the ECU or disconnect the battery for 15 minutes. Turn the key on, wait about 30 seconds, and then start the engine. Allow it to idle for 45 minutes. DO NOT touch the accelerator during this time. Then you may drive it normally. GD

You can get a ping like that if the bearing at the top of the strut tower isn't rotating, the strut spring winds up and maybe shifts a little. Of course something left loose could do it too.

Problem is NOT fixed. The 2.5 sensor has a different connector because the 2.2 and 2.5 use different piezoelectric crystal frequencies and it will not correctly identify knock events. It has the right resistance to make the ECU diagnostic subroutines happy but it will not function the same and may lead to detonation and a premature rod bearing failure. Subaru engines are very sensitive to detonation. GD

Thanks for the kind words. I have some skill, she has a need. A neighbor scraps old cars. He's bringing me some subes so I can strip parts before the scrapping. That helps a lot with this project. I've helped him, he helps me. Small town. Thanks for the tips on these brakes. My manuals say very little about these.

I see on ebay what I should be looking for. It's big. I probably can't miss it. LOL No, on the 98 outback, the lock timer is on the drivers side next to the steering column.

Yeah, I think it is the strut. There's that knocking sound that comes/goes but is more prominent when veering to the left and then there's a clanging sound when I hit bumps. The left side is worse than the right, but I think it comes from both sides when hitting bumps.

A fact is the ej25 DOHC engine had almost near 100% failure of the headgasket. iteration version one thru how ever many changes they have made. Even the newst design is prone to fail at 100k. Now, the ej22, did not bave a fact issue at all, ever on that. Take your chance, read up, be saving money for when you have a ej25 DOHC blow.

It should be clarified that this post is dealing with the EJ25D only. EJ251/253 is a different world and the 22 swap doesn't typically apply. I agree to a point. I will tell someone to repair their 2.5 if that's warranted. There was a recent thread from a member with 99k on an Outback and my advice was to replace the head gaskets. But it's often a big gamble. I have done plenty of HG's on 2.5's and haven't had a single issue with one yet. But depending on mileage and treatment it's OFTEN more economical to put in a used 2.2. The basic problem we are dealing with here is bottom-end failure due to lack of changing the headgaskets at the first signs of leakage. The 25D also has a propensity for burning large amounts of oil and thus running dry and throwing a rod that way.... when rebuilt and properly maintained they are a great engine.... As for availibility - I can often buy low mileage (150k or less) used EJ22's in my area for under $500. Availibility really depends on where you are located. ALSO - people don't even talk about JDM EJ20's - those have about 150 HP and can be swapped into the EJ22/EJ25D cars with about the same amount of work and can be had cheap from the importers. Another point to consider - the EJ22 has inexpensive or no required valve adjustment, timing belt kits are about $100 less..... etc. It's a cheaper engine to run, replace, and maintain. With the price of gas going nuts it's a no brainer which one I would choose. And power loss/mileage can be mitigated to some extent just by dropping a couple tire sizes on the Outback for street duty. I have 2.2'd a Legacy GT and the power loss wasn't a problem at all - in fact it was surprisingly peppy. The problem is that most of these swaps occur on taller geared Outbacks with tall tires. Thus the power loss.... GD

I agree.... The 2.5 has such a high failure rate that I don't see it fair/smart to recommend that anyone waste their money or time fixing it. I believe that our time as a group is better spent figuring out and documenting: A. how to change your 2.5 DOHC subaru to a SOHC subaru. B. non conventional ways to fix some of these HG issues since Subaru cant seem to. There are some really smart innovative people here on the board. I think our mission is to help people enjoy their cars and help people with the most reliable solution to their problem whether its a HG or a warped rotor.