Leaderboard

Ah right - that's the first i've heard of a causative reason, excellent, makes perfect sense. Nice to swap EJ knuckles and struts at the same time. You can get XT6 bolts to go through the EJ knuckles and EJ struts but they can be tight and I've had to pound them through with a huge hammer and damage the threads. Sometimes I have had to do that and others times I haven't, don't know what the difference is but if you just swap the EJ knuckles and struts at the same time you won't have that issue. Sometimes it helps to do this depending how you're doing the conversion, this can get you by for quite some time. Sometimes the airstruts will hold air, it's often a weak compressor or orings that are leaking. I add Tee fitting and just fill them manually after disconnecting them from the vehicles control/air supply system. Take the front passengers side air line and run it between the rear passengers side and rear drivers side struts (the front passengesrs side air line is long and easily accessible for removal) and install a Tee fitting in it so you can fill them both with any old compressor. NAPA sells air line Tee fittings. You can do the same thing to the front as well - add Tee fittings between the solenoid and front struts and air them up. Unplug the solenoid electrical connector so it stays "closed" and doesn't open/let air out (assuming the solenoid doesn't leak).

Its a 10 degree ball joint reemer about $80

Yea, you're pretty much right on. Miata rear shocks are about 4" shorter. You'll probably want those if this is a pavement pounder. I *think* XT6 FWD rear shocks are still quite a bit longer, like the 4-cylinder ones. So you probably don't want that. As for getting the XT6 hubs. Basically your best bet is the marketplace here and/or Subaruxt.com. There was a company in Australia that made 5-lug kits for several years (Crossbred performance) but they stopped several years ago. There was also a private guy in australia who had a couple runs of them made fairly recently, but I think they got snatched up. And I think I remember him posting that his professional situation changed and he probably won't be having any more made.

5-lug swap requires changing the front struts anyway, it only makes sense to discuss it at the same time, as the shock/strut selection will be dependent on the 5-lug setup. It makes the most sense to do the job at the same time, as the only extra component of the project then is swapping rear shocks, which would be easier with the brakes apart anyway. HOWEVER, if you need to get the suspension sorted out, you might want separate that, as finding XT6 rear hubs is not easy even if you're willing to pay for them. Looks like you're reading the write-ups on the USRM, which is awesome. I feel like some of these questions would be clearer with what I've compiled here in the FAQ, check it out. The last link in that post shows someone putting modified-Macpherson rear suspension (like what you've got in the RS) under a Brat (EA81, very similar to EA82, except the EA81 uses torsion bars instead of coil springs). It's a huge job...

Yep, stock rear EJ multilink rear shocks can be made to work without too much difficulty, but they are not setup to use a bushing where the shock rod goes into the mount, and the EA rear suspension swing arm pulls the shock bottom longitudinally too much for that. WJM and I both broke a shock. Not ideal. The NA miata ('92-'98ish) shocks are very similar, without a bushing on the top, but the NB ones ('98ish-'05ish) do have the bushing, and are almost a direct replacement, only using a different diameter spring (have to run coilover sleeves).

4WD XT6s all have air suspension as well. You can use the whole rear shock/spring/mount from a 4WD EA82. It'll be a little on the tall side, but it's a nice bolt-in swap (so will the stock struts/springs from the RS in the front). FWD parts will bolt in, but are much longer (will lift the rear) If you want to run full coilovers, like this: The best fit is something for the '00-'09 Legacy. But be prepared to spend $1k for cheap ones (and really not necessary unless you're going REALLY hard, in which case be prepared to spend several grand for something decent).

No. You don't need to use any XT6 struts. All XT6 AWD struts are air suspension, not what you're after here. Also make sure you're not confusing "5 lug swap" with "suspension swap" - those are two different things and the options are not the same. The thread title is about 5 lug and now you're mentioning struts. You need to be clear or nothing will make any sense. "I want to XYZ...." 87 XT Rear struts: Any Rear EA82 or Rear XT6 FWD complete strut assemblies will swap into yours, they're all interchangeable. The complete thing bolts right in, direct swap. The rear of the car will sit at varying heights depending on the model and FWD/AWD. People have installed newer style 00+ Legacy/Outback rear struts into EA82's as well. You use rear EA82 top mounts on the 00+ Outback rear struts and they can fit into the EA82. I think people have reported the strut rod breaking when doing this....but I'm uncertain...there's a thread or two where people have talked about it. But remember - none of this applies to 5 lug swaps - that's a different question. You don't want any rear EA82, FWD XT6, nor EJ stuff for a rear 5 lug swap, so none of the above applies. You mentinoed struts so the above info only applies to struts, not lug pattern/wheel hub considerations.

Almost nothing from the rear will work (without considerable fabrication). Take a peek under the back of each car, the suspension design is about as different as it's possible to be. You can ream out the ball joint hole in the control arm, and use the whole front knuckle/strut/axle/brake assembly, you'll need the shorter EA81 tie rod ends to get the toe anywhere near zero. You will still need XT6 (or reproduction) rear hubs. At that point, you could use the RS rear brakes by redrilling the backing plate. the rear knuckles, strut, axles, etc. will be of no value to you.

Vibration, pull the heat shield and inspect the drive line. I predict u joints Howlly growlly sounds like rear wheel bearings. My 94 was making a similar noise... I didn't even notice. We took some friends out to dinner and they rode in the back seat... we hadn't gone a mile before they pointed it out ... Bearing wasn't loose , didn't have a lack of grease, water had made it in and it sat long enough to rough up the race! Would have driven thousands of miles yet. After changing it out it was amazing how quiet it was... Did the other side the next week just because...

some say the carrier bearing can really howl - I could imagine it might possibly vibrate as well.

It is a real satisfaction knowing you can do this and how good the results can be. What's next ?

great, good job. you did it exactly right - cut the drill bit down to fit. those threads strip all the time - i'm sure it happens i've never seen a failed thread repair so carry on and don't worry about it.

Camber adjustment, improved Ackermann angle (if you use EJ front knuckles), 100s of front strut/spring options (rear shocks don't change with the 5-lug, but are a pretty simple design so there are options there). dozens of brake options, front and rear. Wheel/tire options. Might not seem like much, but makes a huge difference. Of course, a better torque curve (EJ engine) and real AWD help a LOT, too.

What would you guys pay? If I started supplying these same hubs 5x100 XT rears would you do $200 a piece? So $400 for both rears?

oh and here is this bit of info Here's how your factory oil pressure gauge should behave on a healthy engine with a properly-sealed oil pump: Startup: should go to around 45psi at idle, and go as high as 60psi when the revs climb. Warmed up: Should go to 45psi and pretty much stay there when the revs are up, maybe go a little higher if you get on it. Warmed up idle: Should sit just above the 0 mark, most likely in the 20psi range. Sure these gauges aren't completely accurate, but they're much better than any domestic gauges I've seen...