Leaderboard

Did you miss me? My health is slowly getting better so i can type again and think clearly! nipper

common, power issue: 1. check battery 2. clean battery terminals 3. clean battery cable end clamps and make sure they're tight 4. test alternator output 5. makes sure crank pulley isn't separating - draw/paint a line across the face and see if the line is broken after driving 6. check light bulbs - particularly the ones in the rear trunk, etc.

They are NOT torque to yield bolts. Subaru has never used TTY head bolts and there is no mention of replacement in the FSM. Just clean them with mineral spirits, or a parts washer. Do not use a wire wheel or brush or anything abrasive - it will remove the anti-friction coating. If any have pitting damage or rust replace only those. Reuse the rest. Lube them with Amsoil assembly lube. Chase the block threads (an old head bolt with a couple slots cut up the threads works well), and run the bolts in and back out a couple times (head off) with the assembly lube to pre-lube the block threads and check for any binding. Reapply assembly lube to the bolt for final torque. If you feel any binding or tightness to the threads STOP and asses the situation. If you seize the bolt in the block and it breaks off you are totally F'd.

They have agreed to ship the stubs to me at their expense. I hope they ship in a timely manner. They must not scrap too many subarus out there but thats no surprise to me

Sorry guys it's a 2008. Either way from what it looks like the pickup is within the factory sealed hub. Not the axle. Changing an axle shouldn't create ABS problems. Just trying to confirm this and was curious if anyone else has delt with that before. In the older Subaru Legacy's like 2000 - 2004 there where notches on the axle. This is not the case from 2005 and up. As for the "tone ring" Mr Heartless spoke of, that's way old school 90's Subaru ABS.

Mate, despite mine being AWD it has the front struts from a FWD Loyal sedan. I dondon't have their numbers or measurements at hand. Spring has coloured paint daubs for you to find and tell. Left are different to right

Welcome! Your new ride is a beaut! She'll clean up real nice. Posting a video of your problems may help. The search function on the top right hand corner usually does the trick. If you can't find the answers here and you happen to have Facebook then there's a few groups you can join that may have your answers. Those groups are: Classic Subaru Network (4x140 or GTFO), Old School Subaru Group & Subaru Brumby, Brat, M.V. & Shifter Group.

Well - I have almost got the motor ready to install - a couple of things that are a bit odd - the pushrods I am using come from the motor that was overheated (EA81) - they have two knurled lines on them which the Subaru Workshop manual say come from an EA71 ?? the rocker arm adjustment seems ok although it is near the end of the threads (winding in) and comparing this with another motor I have the threads are about half way - according to the manual the EA71 pushrods are approx. 10mm shorter than the EA81- the other thing was the O-ring that sits between the flywheel and crankshaft is different (the new motor was from an automatic) so I fitted a manual flywheel and left out the O-ring --- Cheers

Lubriplate assembly lube is what I use on rods, mains, and cams. Any journals. Would work for the seals also. The Dow 111 really protects the seals and especially o-rings. Coating the nitrile rubber o-rings in 111 keeps oxygen from getting to the rubber and that's really what is responsible for making them hard and crack. Oxygen and heat. 111 is amazing stuff to have on hand in any garage. Besides lubricating any and all seals, oil filter gaskets, etc - it is also a perfect dielectric grease for all electrical connections including plugs and wires. Don't lubricate the OD of the seal. It can and will pop back out. Using the loctite 248 stick will provide for smooth installation and quickly cure making it almost impossible for the seal to come back out on it's own. Indeed - quite a lot of force and red hot cursing will be involved in its removal. GD